Friday, February 1, 2019

Introducing: The Moritz Grossmann ATUM GMT

The news that Moritz Grossmann won’t be at Basel this year may have been lost amongst the mass exodus announced last year. But it is an important step for the brand as it tries to close the gap between itself and its clients, instead opting to host a global roadshow visiting Dubai, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and London in 2019 (with potential to extend this roster in years to come). The show kicks off this week in Dubai with the premier of this model.

When it comes to the movement in this watch, we find an in-house Moritz Grossmann caliber 100.8 in German silver, with hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock and raised gold chatons. This is where Moritz Grossmann comes into its own. Founder, CEO, and trained watchmaker Christine Hutter’s past experience at Lange has gone along way to shaping Moritz Grossmann’s obsession with finishing and it shows. 

Dial side, the step-in texture, from sunburst in the center to brushed for the 240hour ring on all three models is satisfying, while offering clear legibility too. I have to confess, I would have liked to see the hour framed rather than covered by the arrow, as we have seen previous ATUM models do with the date. Aesthetically, the GMT isn’t dissimilar to the ATUM Date model and you would be forgiven for any confusion at further than three feet away. The hands are always a joy on any Grossmann watch, and that is no exception in this instance. The lance-shaped hands are hand crafted in the manufactory, painstakingly finished and annealed in dark brown (for the white gold model with argenté opaline dial, the entire set of hands is polished stainless steel).

These new additions are handsome, no doubt, and the technical strides Grossmann continue to take in movement development has to be celebrated. Given the choice, I would still opt for a time-only ATUM Pure or even something with the vintage inspired logo seen at Christies last year.



from Best Watches For Men http://bit.ly/2S0CKpu