Thursday, November 30, 2017

Oris Aquis Small Second, Date 74376734159RS

Oris Aquis Small Second, Date 74376734159RS

01 743 7673 4159 NEW ORIS AQUIS SMALL SECOND DATE MENS LUXURY WATCH IN STOCK – Extended Holiday Returns Through 1/31/2017 – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – With Manufacturer Serial Numbers – BlackSKU: 74376734159RS

Price: USD$1095
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Review: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4

DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles

We covered the launch of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 in detail with a full hands-on ;review prior to the official launch. We subsequently chatted at length with CEO Karl-Friedrich Schuefele (link is part 2 of a 3 part interview) on the philosophy behind the brand and the motivation that drives it. The collection was further updated with the FB 1.2 in a white gold case, and then the FB 1.3 in a platinum case. We now arrive at the latest of the series: the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4, which is clothed in a titanium case. 

The Chronométrie the Ferdinand Berthoud watches are not mere tribute, a reproduction or even a reinterpretation of the original created by Berthoud. The work cut out for Karl-Friedrich Schuefele and his team is far more demanding. It involves translating the quest and thirst for chronometry by F. Berthoud into a watchmaking language which is contemporary, and represents what he might have done if he was still living today. Hence, the evolution of the timepieces are naturally a painstaking process to ensure that this essential guiding philosophy is adhered.

 

The F. Berthoud FB 1.4 is available in two versions: one with a bead blasted, black laquered galvanised brass dial, and the other in a vertical satinated silvered galvanised brass dial.

 

Origins of the species: the Berthoud FB 1

The first born of the series is the FB 1 which we feel is a magnificent watch at many different levels. In our full review here, we acknowledged in our review that:

“The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 is an example of what can be tastefully done with good backing and resources of a real watchmaking manufacture.”

The basics of the watch in the series carry the same familial traits. The design throughout the series is similar. A base round case within a octagonal outer case to simulate the aesthetic feel of the marine chronometers made by Ferdinand Berthoud. The use of a suspended reverse fusée and chain system to power the tourbillon, visible via a cutout on the dial also remains. The unique conical power reserve indication system is ratained. The case material remains the main differentiation from FB 1 to FB 1.2 to FB 1.3. The FB 1 being in white gold, the FB 1.2 in rose gold for the more romantic feel. And the FB 1.3 in platinum.

 

The F. Berthoud FB 1.4 with a black dial.

 

Attention to detail remains unchanged. For example in the FB 1.3, a special technique is developed to prevent the platinum to platinum contact surfaces from bonding to each other. The simple solution is to apply a grease, or to use a sleeve made of another metal, but this goes against the grain of the Berthoud philosophy.

 

F. Berthoud FB 1.4-2 with the vertical stain brushed silver dial presents a second look to the same version of the watch.

 

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4

For the fourth version, the FB 1.4, Karl-Friedrich takes a bit more liberty, having already fulfilled the classical requirements in the earlier editions.

What has changed?

 

The post Review: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.

Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong




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Spinnaker Fleuss Automatic invites you to take a vintage dip

Spinnaker Watches makes stylized, SCUBA-inspired, water-oriented watches, and the Fleuss line is their new vintage diver throwback. It hearkens back to the original inventor of the SCUBA system, Henry Fleuss, and features a few interesting features both in the style and functionality. The Fleuss series comes in two models. The Spinnaker Fleuss SP-5056 is a bit more stylish with non-numerical indexes. The SP-5055 is a more traditional look with arabic numerals. Both feature exhibition casebacks.

As an experienced SCUBA diver (I’m PADI Rescue and NITROX certified and have somewhere around 200 dives), I was certainly interested in taking these two for a spin.

First Impressions

Each watch comes packaged nicely in a flat box, wrapped in tissue paper – I actually love these flat pack boxes and simple delivery – no pre-bend is put into the leather strap, they’re easy to store when not wearing, and transport easily.

The first striking feature of both models is certainly that bulbous bezel piece – harkening back to vintage Rolexs with a Bakelite bezel, this is certainly a unique look. I also appreciate the exhibition caseback – although not adding to the functionality, it always adds a bit of interest, especially when showing off to watch newbie friends.

Finally, in keeping with the trend, the Fleuss watches feature a leather strap with those nifty vintage-inspired waxed thread stitches at the pin and buckle ends. Although not as precisely executed as the strap on my Meistersinger Salthora Meta X, the strap does add interest to the pieces.

 

Fit and Finish

First and foremost, both pieces are very well assembled – substantial and solid cases, perfect dials, and precise clicks in the bezel.

The dials of each feature a very interesting textured finish, which adds to the weighty feel and look of the pieces – I think it certainly goes best on the slightly trendier 5056, and compliments the DLC-Black case.

Looking through the exhibition case-back, the Spinnaker logo is sharply laser engraved.

Last but certainly not least, the “C3 see-through luminous applied vintage-style curved semi-bulbous Acrylic bezel” stands out amongst almost all other divers I’ve worn. It adds a nifty glint to the face and adds just a little bit of magnification to the glowing numerals underneath to make them clearly legible and distinct. How well this wears and resists abrasion, though, remains to be seen. I’m certainly a fan of the metal and enamel bezel of my Seiko SKX009, and the ceramic bezel of my MetaX because they can both take a good amount of abuse and remain legible – but an Acrylic bezel seems like it might scratch, fog, or cloud after a few years of use, abuse, and exposure to salt water and UV light. Time will tell.

On the Wrist

Curved lugs, a gently curving caseback, and a compact profile make the Fleuss easily wearable. The leather straps are supple and nice, and I can easily get into wearing this as my “everyday”.

The style is distinct, and just subtle enough to make wearing to a party easy. Wearing on adventures, weekend trips, and around the house is a no brainer for these – they should be able to handle it all.

Standout Features

  • C3 see through luminous applied vintage style curved semi bulbous Acrylic bezel – Not my favourite bezel ever, but I appreciate the style and motivation to go in this direction. Always better to do the stylish thing and try something different.
  • Exhibition caseback – it’s cool and wows people. That said, it’s NOT a feature found on more serious divers watches, and is one of the elements that would prevent me from relying on this watch on a dive.
  • Black DLC case – adds a distinct style, compliments the dark blue well.

Feedback

My main bit of feedback here is simple: 150 meters? Come on! These watches are marketed as divers watches and are even named after the inventor of SCUBA. However, with only a 150m depth rating, they hardly qualify as real divers watches. Sure you’ll never really go that deep, but typically divers watches are rated to at least 200m for casual divers, 300m for “real” divers watches, and ofter 500 or 1,000 for true hardcore ones. Things like a 150m rating and exhibition caseback tell me that this is a cool piece to wear on weekend trips and to live the style of a diver, but if you’re a real diver looking for a real watch to rely on day in and day out on dives, keep looking. Spinnaker admits this on their site, slotting this watch in as suitable for Splashes, Swimming, Snorkeling, and Free Diving, but NOT Scuba Diving or Professional Deep Sea Diving.

Specs

  • Case – Stainless steel
  • Lens – Sapphire crystal Lens
  • Dial – Normal
  • Indexes – Applied BGW9 indexes
  • Hands – C5 luminous hands
  • Crown – Screw down crown
  • Bezel – Stainless Steelunidirectional turning bezel with acrylic and luminous markers
  • Case Back – See-through case back with customized rotor
  • Case Diameter –  43.00mm
  • Case Thickness – 13.25 mm
  • Strap – Water proof genuine leather strap – Hand stitched
  • Strap Width – 22.0 mm
  • Buckle – Tang Buckle
  • Functions – Date display, Elapsed time measurement
  • Movement – Seiko TMI NH35
  • MSRP – USD$ 285



Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Jeffrey Donenfeld

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Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Business News: Signs Of Recovery For Japanese Watchmakers

TAG Heuer Formula One CAU2011.BT0717

TAG Heuer Formula One CAU2011.BT0717

CAU2011.BT0717TAG HEUER FORMULA ONE MENS WATCH IN STOCK – Extended Holiday Returns Through 1/31/2017 – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – With Manufacturer Serial Numbers – Grey Dial – Date Feature – CSKU: CAU2011-BT0717

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Breitling Chronomat 44 AB011011/G684-375A

Breitling Chronomat 44 AB011011/G684-375A



AB011011|G684|375A NEW BREITLING CHRONOMAT 44 MEN’S WATCH FOR SALECyber Monday Sales Event – IN STOCK – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – With Manufacturer Serial Numbers – Silver Dial – Brushed Bezel – Chronograph Feature – Self Winding Automatic Chronometer Movement – 6 Year Warranty – Guaranteed Authentic – Certificate of Authenticity – Stainless Steel Case & Pilot Bracelet – Scratch Resistant Glareproof Sapphire Crystal – Manufacturer Box & Manual – 500 Meters / 1650 Feet Water Resistant – 43.5mm = 1 3/4″ Case, 7″ Adjustable Bracelet – Deployment Buckle – Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel – Luminescent Hands & Markers – Screw Down Crown & Caseback &nbsp &nbsp Also Known As Gents Model # AB0110 / Windrider Chronomat B01 / aw000
List Price: USD
Price:USD 6275.00


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Bell & Ross Vintage BRWW192-GUYNEMER

Bell & Ross Vintage BRWW192-GUYNEMER

BRWW192-GUYNEMER | WW1-GUYNEMER BELL & ROSS WW1 GUYNEMER LIMITED EDITION MENS LUXURY WATCHIN STOCK – Extended Holiday Returns Through 1/31/2017 – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – With Manufacturer SerSKU: WW1-GUYNEMER

Price: USD$2175
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Ateliers DeMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Orage Watch For Prato Automobiles Partnership

Ateliers DeMonaco, the high end watchmaking arm of Frederique Constant’s group of watch brands, joins a growing list of watchmakers that have created timepieces not just inspired by a car, but only available by purchasing the car.

The article Ateliers DeMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Orage Watch For Prato Automobiles Partnership first appeared on aBlogtoWatch and was written by Praneeth Rajsingh.

Article from: aBlogtoWatch, by Praneeth Rajsingh

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Tuesday, November 28, 2017

Breitling Colt Automatic A1738811/G791-105X

Breitling Colt Automatic A1738811/G791-105X

A1738811/G791-105X NEW BREITLING COLT AUTOMATIC MENS WATCH FOR SALE IN STOCK – Extended Holiday Returns Through 1/31/2017 – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – With Manufacturer Serial Numbers – StratusSKU: A1738811-G791-105X

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Breitling 22mm Pilot Bracelet 375A

Breitling 22mm Pilot Bracelet 375A

375A NEW BREITLING 22/20MM POLISHED STEEL PILOT BRACELET IN STOCK – FREE Overnight Shipping | Lowest Price Guaranteed – No Sales Tax (Outside California) – 7″ Polished Stainless Steel Pilot Bracelet – Deployment Buckle – Fits Select Breitling MoSKU: 375A

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Review: Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles

Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

“It’s the story you tell, not the product you sell”, or so the saying goes. Chopard’s new L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is served with a story about fine winemaking. You see, Mr. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the brand’s co-president is not only passionate about making watches, but also wine. The term ‘grand cru’ (literally ‘great growth’ in French) is used to classify a wine of the most superior grade, or the vineyard which produces it. The moniker perhaps serves as a reminder that Chopard’s manufacture and L.U.C timepieces belong in an equivalent classification. The L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru even has a case that is reminiscent of the traditional oak barrels that are used at Mr. Scheufele’s vineyards. But while Chopard’s latest tonneau-shaped watch is marketed with a story (one that is personal to the co-president), with the brand, it has always been about the product first. The Heritage Grand Cru continues to show the watchmaking world what the haut de gamme L.U.C line is all about and why it is not to be discounted. Here, we bring you the details and specifications, as well as our thoughts on the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru.

 

The case, dial and hands

This is not the first time a tonneau-shaped case has been used by Chopard – that honour goes to the L.U.C XP Tonneau – but the brand’s second attempt has resulted in added refinement. The L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru has softer curves and a rounder body. The case measures an elegant 38.5 mm wide and 38.8 mm long but because of it’s atypical shape, the watch will wear larger than a round watch with an equivalent diameter. True to its dressy design, the case is also delightfully thin at 7.75 mm, allowing the watch to slip under a tight dress cuff with ease. Its finishing is gorgeous; the vertical satin finish on the curved case middle along with the polished bezel offer a stunning contrast. The case is matched with a brown strap, alligator leather on the top and bottom: the luxurious way to do it.

 

The lugs on the brushed-polished case are short and downturn sharply to improve wearability.

 

The white dial is porcelain-like and printed with inky black Roman numerals to mark the hours. Inboard of the Roman numerals is the railway-style minute track which surrounds the company marquee and the seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is also a railway-style track for the seconds that is accented with red Arabic numerals at the 15, 45 and 60 second mark. The brand’s own dauphine-style hands (gilded) are used to indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. An aperture for the date is present at the bottom of the sub-dial, cutting through the railway track. The date window is a touchy subject in the watch community. On one hand, its functionality (being arguably the most useful complication one can have on a timepiece) is undeniable; on the other, it is likely to disrupt the design purity of a dial. This conundrum presents itself on […]

The post Review: Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.

Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo




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Revisiting Visitor Watch Co with the Vale Park Officer

It is hard to believe, but it has been three years since we brought you our hands-on review of the Visitor Watch Co Duneshore.  In the intervening time, we had a slate of updates and some newer watches, that were more or less iterations on the existing watch.  Well, that brings us to today.  I had noticed a new Visitor Watch Co watch popping up on Instagram, and a quick visit to their site showed, yes, there is a new model that is currently up for pre-order.  A quick chat with Phil Rodenbeck then netted us some time with a loaner of the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer.

For the brand, the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer is opening up a new line (named Officer).  The calling card for this lineup will be hinged caseback.  In other applications, I’ve considered them as Hunter Cases, but the terminology isn’t important.  What this is is a hinged cover for the sapphire display caseback.  Once you unscrew the crown about a half-turn, you can open up the cover, and get a good look at the custom rotor that lives on the Miyota 9015 movement.  You also get an eyeful of perlage on the inside of the cover, which is a nice touch.  To me, that blank space on the caseback cover looks ripe for some engraving, so you have some customization options that wouldn’t be otherwise available.  And hey, how many of your watch buddies can pull a trick like that with their watches?

 

Up front, the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer carries forth some of the same design DNA that we saw on the original Duneshore.  You’ve got snoopy curves (though, here, they’re just around the bezel, and don’t actually lend a curve to the caseback), and you’ve got the pen nib indices showing up.  While not quite the same as on the prior Duneshore, it brings a hint of that lineage into play.  The case also features a unique shape – though it’s mostly rounded, it really gives the feel of being set into a hexagon or octagon.  AKA, not like anything you’ve had before.

With the dial of the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer, we have a very dark, very matte black finish.  This makes the cutouts on the sandwich dial stand out crisply, as well as the lumed handset.  I want to give a special bit of attention here to the seconds hand.  Finished as it is, it all but blends in, except for that tiny lumed arrow right at the very tip.  As an added bonus, when it hits the compass points on the dial, it nestles right into the triangle made by the three pips that show up there.  A nice touch, and great attention to detail.

For the main hands, these are definitely a changeup.  I’m going to call them paddle style, for lack of a better definition.  They do give nice, broad surfaces for the lume application, and they are instantly distinguishable from each other, even though they are the same width.  And hey, the hour hand hits the inside of the indices, and the minute hand extends out the railroad track at the edge of the dial, so no complaints there.  And again, with the black finishing there, I really like how they just sort of float up in space there, giving a unique look to things.

Now, back to the case of the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer.  With the need for the hinged back (again, super fun, super awesome), you’re setup with needing a straight edge on the side of the case.  This could be hidden, but Rodenbeck ran with it, and put a straight edge right down the side of the case. To keep it balanced, then, that curve to straight edge is repeated on the other side, becoming crown guards.  While I do enjoy the uniqueness, I did find myself wishing they were a little less pronounced (or, that they had gone with a full-on geometric shape surrounding the round bezel).  Then again, that’s just me, and I’ve a feeling that it would grown on me over time.  Just something for you to think about as a future buyer.

And, if you are going to be a buyer?  You’ll be putting yourself on the wait list, with pricing coming in at $ 800 for the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer.  A bit higher than you might expect for a Miyota-powered piece, sure, but here it’s coming out in the design of that case.  I’ve got some pals over on Instagram that have this watch, and do love it – so it’s not just my word, you’ve got other random strangers to tell you about it as well.  For me, I do like the different paths that Rodenbeck takes with his designs, and enjoy seeing the new stuff pop out.  The clear winner on the Visitor Watch Co Vale Park Officer – for me – is that case back, with the dial and handset coming in a close second.  If you jump in on the pre-order, please do pop on over to our Slack channel, and let’s talk watches.  Shoot, let’s do that even if you aren’t pre-ordering – we’re building a nice community over there, and would love to have some more voices in the discussion.  visitorwatchco.com

Review Summary
  • Brand & Model: Visitor Watch Company Vale Park Officer
  • Price: $ 800 (on pre-order)
  • Who’s it for?  You want something that isn’t just another diver – you want a design that’s different
  • Would I wear it?  Yeah, I would.  It’s definitely more compact than my memory of prior models, and I can’t get enough of the dial
  • What I’d change: The straight edges – either make them less-pronounced, or go full on with a hexagon or pentagon surrounding the bezel
  • The best thing about it: The caseback and that deep, dark, sandwich dial offsetting all the lovely lume.
Tech Specs from Visitor Watch Co
  • Case:
    • 39.5 mm x 41 mm (44.2 mm to the crown);11.6 mm thick; 47 mm lug to lug
    • Finishes: most horizontal surfaces are brushed, most vertical surfaces are polished, the crown is partially bead-blasted, and the interior of the officer’s caseback is finished with perlage.
    • Case back:  The officer’s back employs a unique release with a catch-lip that nests in the screw-down crown.
  • Dial:
    • Matte black sandwich dial with cross-hairs and hour markers cut out, exposing a lower layer of C3 SuperLuminova
    • C3 SuperLuminova used for remainder of printing on hial
  • Handset:  C3 SuperLuminova-filled; otherwise black
  • Lugs:  rolled at the end and drilled through, and the case is treated to a variety of
  • Movement:  Miyota 9015 with custom rotor
  • WR: 50m
  • Strap: “wingtip” leather strap.

Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Patrick Kansa

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