Grand Seiko seems to be the community’s darling. Since a few years, collectors and watch journalists are all over it and it seems to be increasing by the day. With ‘in-house’ GS ambassadors such as Joe Kirk, who happens to be Director of the Seiko Boutique Miami Design district and puts out beautiful images on his Instagram and Facebook account, we get to see how the community responds to the amazingly well-finished Grand Seiko watches.
The enthusiasm for Grand Seiko is so huge, that some people do wonder what’s going on. Is it all paid-for content that is being published? Is Seiko giving away free stuff to press who talks positively about them? Grand Seiko is all over the place on social media, everyone is raving about them, but you rarely see them in the flesh.
Back when I started Fratello, in 2004, I wasn’t overly enthusiastic or positive about Grand Seiko. I actually wondered why anyone in his (or her) right mind would spend so much money on a watch that’s basically ‘a Seiko’. And I didn’t hide that opinion. But everyone makes mistakes, including me. Fast forward 10 years later and the realization came that Grand Seiko is actually something special. Add another year, and I find myself in the Grand Seiko manufacture in Japan, looking at the master watchmakers who perform painstakingly work on the little masterpieces. The finish on the case is impeccable, using a special polishing technique by the name of ‘Zaratsu’. 15 minutes later, I am staring at a guy who polishes and checks hour markers. One by one, using a little mirror to see if everything is as smooth as it needs to be. All parts are hand-picked, the cases are polished by hand, the movements have special materials to make them as accurate as possible and are constructed in such way that the watchmaker can easily work on them. It is a pity that Japan is so far away for most of the watch enthusiasts, as I convinced that seeing is believing. But in the end, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I bought my first Grand Seiko about two weeks ago and it took me almost a year to decide which reference. They have so many interesting references, and I promised myself that it should not be an impulsive purchase. I tried different models, in Japan and more close to home, I debated about dials, materials and movements. And finally, I made my choice. I couldn’t be happier and every time I put it on my wrist, it amazes me.
Grand Seiko SBGA373G
The watch I have here today though is not mine. I will do a review about my own Grand Seiko later on, after a few months of wearing. However, it does have similarities, such as the bracelet and the case shape. This shape is also known as the ’44GS’ design. It is that typical Grand Seiko design that is also referred to as the ‘The Grammar of Design’, based on their design from 1967. I talked about it here. For me, it was important that my own watch would have this typical Grand Seiko style or better said: a 44GS case.
Grand Seiko’s SBGA373G reference has this 44GS case, and it is a first that this case style has a Spring Drive movement inside. This watch was introduced in BaselWorld this year and comes in this beautiful champagne colour and there’s the reference with a dark blue dial. Although I love blue, the champagne dial is perhaps a bit more timeless. As always with the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movements, also called calibre 9R movements, there’s this little extra hand on the dial, indicating the power reserve. This is also one of the minor issues I have with this watch, or in fact, all of these Spring Drive powered movements. It is a bit too much for me. Like on the famous Snow Flake dial model of this watch, the little power reserve indicator dilute a bit from the otherwise perfect dial. But, I can also imagine that there are some people out there who love this kind of function, or complication. Also, this is just a minor issue, I think that I can live with it for sure, given the rest of the watch’s features and characteristics.
The great thing about Grand Seiko is, as often echoed, the finishing. I mean, aside from all the technical things that concern the Spring Drive movement, the design of the watch is something you are confronted with multiple times per day. So it has to look good, no matter what type of movement is inside. Right? The Zaratsu polishing, the sharp and shiny hour markers as well as the hands, they all have their way with light. The movie below, shot by our own Berti Buijsrogge, will give you a pretty good understanding of how Grand Seiko’s (44GS) case plays with the light. Now, you might find yourself focused on the dial or the super smooth motion of the Spring Drive’s second hand, but try to pay close attention to the shape of the case, with the beautiful Zaratsu polished long and sharp lugs. It is so incredibly difficult to get the design of this watch, without holding it in the flesh. Even with the naked eye, you can’t fully appreciate this watch unless you hold it in your hands and can rotate it a bit so you can see all angles.
Grand Seiko SBGA373G Video
from Best Watches For Men https://ift.tt/2LtCewO