Thursday, November 30, 2017

Spinnaker Fleuss Automatic invites you to take a vintage dip

Spinnaker Watches makes stylized, SCUBA-inspired, water-oriented watches, and the Fleuss line is their new vintage diver throwback. It hearkens back to the original inventor of the SCUBA system, Henry Fleuss, and features a few interesting features both in the style and functionality. The Fleuss series comes in two models. The Spinnaker Fleuss SP-5056 is a bit more stylish with non-numerical indexes. The SP-5055 is a more traditional look with arabic numerals. Both feature exhibition casebacks.

As an experienced SCUBA diver (I’m PADI Rescue and NITROX certified and have somewhere around 200 dives), I was certainly interested in taking these two for a spin.

First Impressions

Each watch comes packaged nicely in a flat box, wrapped in tissue paper – I actually love these flat pack boxes and simple delivery – no pre-bend is put into the leather strap, they’re easy to store when not wearing, and transport easily.

The first striking feature of both models is certainly that bulbous bezel piece – harkening back to vintage Rolexs with a Bakelite bezel, this is certainly a unique look. I also appreciate the exhibition caseback – although not adding to the functionality, it always adds a bit of interest, especially when showing off to watch newbie friends.

Finally, in keeping with the trend, the Fleuss watches feature a leather strap with those nifty vintage-inspired waxed thread stitches at the pin and buckle ends. Although not as precisely executed as the strap on my Meistersinger Salthora Meta X, the strap does add interest to the pieces.

Fit and Finish

First and foremost, both pieces are very well assembled – substantial and solid cases, perfect dials, and precise clicks in the bezel.

The dials of each feature a very interesting textured finish, which adds to the weighty feel and look of the pieces – I think it certainly goes best on the slightly trendier 5056, and compliments the DLC-Black case.

Looking through the exhibition case-back, the Spinnaker logo is sharply laser engraved.

Last but certainly not least, the “C3 see-through luminous applied vintage-style curved semi-bulbous Acrylic bezel” stands out amongst almost all other divers I’ve worn. It adds a nifty glint to the face and adds just a little bit of magnification to the glowing numerals underneath to make them clearly legible and distinct. How well this wears and resists abrasion, though, remains to be seen. I’m certainly a fan of the metal and enamel bezel of my Seiko SKX009, and the ceramic bezel of my MetaX because they can both take a good amount of abuse and remain legible – but an Acrylic bezel seems like it might scratch, fog, or cloud after a few years of use, abuse, and exposure to salt water and UV light. Time will tell.

On the Wrist

Curved lugs, a gently curving caseback, and a compact profile make the Fleuss easily wearable. The leather straps are supple and nice, and I can easily get into wearing this as my “everyday”.

The style is distinct, and just subtle enough to make wearing to a party easy. Wearing on adventures, weekend trips, and around the house is a no brainer for these – they should be able to handle it all.

Standout Features

C3 see through luminous applied vintage style curved semi bulbous Acrylic bezel – Not my favourite bezel ever, but I appreciate the style and motivation to go in this direction. Always better to do the stylish thing and try something different.
Exhibition caseback – it’s cool and wows people. That said, it’s NOT a feature found on more serious divers watches, and is one of the elements that would prevent me from relying on this watch on a dive.
Black DLC case – adds a distinct style, compliments the dark blue well.

Feedback

My main bit of feedback here is simple: 150 meters? Come on! These watches are marketed as divers watches and are even named after the inventor of SCUBA. However, with only a 150m depth rating, they hardly qualify as real divers watches. Sure you’ll never really go that deep, but typically divers watches are rated to at least 200m for casual divers, 300m for “real” divers watches, and ofter 500 or 1,000 for true hardcore ones. Things like a 150m rating and exhibition caseback tell me that this is a cool piece to wear on weekend trips and to live the style of a diver, but if you’re a real diver looking for a real watch to rely on day in and day out on dives, keep looking. Spinnaker admits this on their site, slotting this watch in as suitable for Splashes, Swimming, Snorkeling, and Free Diving, but NOT Scuba Diving or Professional Deep Sea Diving.

Specs

Case – Stainless steel
Lens – Sapphire crystal Lens
Dial – Normal
Indexes – Applied BGW9 indexes
Hands – C5 luminous hands
Crown – Screw down crown
Bezel – Stainless Steelunidirectional turning bezel with acrylic and luminous markers
Case Back – See-through case back with customized rotor
Case Diameter – 43.00mm
Case Thickness – 13.25 mm
Strap – Water proof genuine leather strap – Hand stitched
Strap Width – 22.0 mm
Buckle – Tang Buckle
Functions – Date display, Elapsed time measurement
Movement – Seiko TMI NH35
MSRP – USD$ 285

Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Jeffrey Donenfeld