DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
We covered the launch of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 in detail with a full hands-on ;review prior to the official launch. We subsequently chatted at length with CEO Karl-Friedrich Schuefele (link is part 2 of a 3 part interview) on the philosophy behind the brand and the motivation that drives it. The collection was further updated with the FB 1.2 in a white gold case, and then the FB 1.3 in a platinum case. We now arrive at the latest of the series: the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4, which is clothed in a titanium case.
The Chronométrie the Ferdinand Berthoud watches are not mere tribute, a reproduction or even a reinterpretation of the original created by Berthoud. The work cut out for Karl-Friedrich Schuefele and his team is far more demanding. It involves translating the quest and thirst for chronometry by F. Berthoud into a watchmaking language which is contemporary, and represents what he might have done if he was still living today. Hence, the evolution of the timepieces are naturally a painstaking process to ensure that this essential guiding philosophy is adhered.
The F. Berthoud FB 1.4 is available in two versions: one with a bead blasted, black laquered galvanised brass dial, and the other in a vertical satinated silvered galvanised brass dial.
Origins of the species: the Berthoud FB 1
The first born of the series is the FB 1 which we feel is a magnificent watch at many different levels. In our full review here, we acknowledged in our review that:
“The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 is an example of what can be tastefully done with good backing and resources of a real watchmaking manufacture.”
The basics of the watch in the series carry the same familial traits. The design throughout the series is similar. A base round case within a octagonal outer case to simulate the aesthetic feel of the marine chronometers made by Ferdinand Berthoud. The use of a suspended reverse fusée and chain system to power the tourbillon, visible via a cutout on the dial also remains. The unique conical power reserve indication system is ratained. The case material remains the main differentiation from FB 1 to FB 1.2 to FB 1.3. The FB 1 being in white gold, the FB 1.2 in rose gold for the more romantic feel. And the FB 1.3 in platinum.
The F. Berthoud FB 1.4 with a black dial.
Attention to detail remains unchanged. For example in the FB 1.3, a special technique is developed to prevent the platinum to platinum contact surfaces from bonding to each other. The simple solution is to apply a grease, or to use a sleeve made of another metal, but this goes against the grain of the Berthoud philosophy.
F. Berthoud FB 1.4-2 with the vertical stain brushed silver dial presents a second look to the same version of the watch.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.4
For the fourth version, the FB 1.4, Karl-Friedrich takes a bit more liberty, having already fulfilled the classical requirements in the earlier editions.
What has changed?
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong
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