DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
IWC introduces its new Ingenieur line with the flagship Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Limited production of 100 watches, the 18 k red gold timepiece stands out among the collection as the largest, heaviest and most expensive.
The Case and Dial
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month in 18 k red gold.
The watch measures 45 mm in diameter and 17.5 mm in thickness. Not for the faint hearted or thin wristed, the perpetual calendar packs a slew of functions with a digital date-month display and a flyback chronograph. Numerals and words on the dial use the signature IWC font, with a high degree of legibility. The hands and dial combination lean towards the sporty side, while the case is arguably classic. Noticeably, the bezel, now without the screws or decorations come across as rather thick, and tall. The polished finish of the case makes the watch look more dressy, and takes away some of its rugged appeal.
The watch measures 45 mm in diameter and 17.5 mm in height. It is a limited production of 100 pieces.
The watch uses a unique digital date and month display, with a cut-out dial to reveal the jump mechanism.
We like the design of the pushers and crown, with a nice curvature and press mechanism feel. The watch has a set of short lugs which makes it look more compact and round, less sleek than the Portuguese and but a lot more masculine. For most, it may take a longer period of acquired taste to get used to this hybrid look; this classic but not classic, sporty yet not sporty design.
The Movement
The watch uses the IWC 89800 caliber with flyback chronograph and perpetual calendar.
The Ingenieur Perptual Calendar uses the IWC 89800 caliber; an automatic movement with a base used in the other flyback chronographs in IWC. The Perpetual Calendar module is added to the base caliber, which in part explains its thickness, and comes with a day, date, month, leap year digital display. The stacked wheel design as opposed to wheels on the same plane, (for e.g. those in Glashütte Original, A. Lange & Söhne) also contribute to the height of the movement.
Close-up of the movement, shows a pedestrian finish with machined decorations; a trade-off for a relatively lower price point.
The signature Pellaton pawl-winding system is used, which is said to improve rotor winding efficiency. Technically, the movement is impressive and arguably economical in terms of complication to price. Similar complications by other brands easily start in the 6 digit price range. That said, it comes at a trade off in finishing and movement aesthetics. Finishing wise, much is left to be desired, in fact a closed caseback might be a better option. The movement beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and has a power-reserve of 68 hours.
Concluding Thoughts
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month on the wrist. A highly functional and masculine timepiece, with a unique style that requires an acquired taste.
The Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is possibly the best […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Chester Lau
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