DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
Saxonia Thin 37 mm v.s. Calatrava Ref. 5119
Think of what is essential for a well-rounded watch collection and one inevitably stumbles upon the dress watch. The most versatile dress watch is one that only tells the time. A time-only piece is perfect not only for the most formal of occasions but also for a casual business drink down at the bar. Today, we compare two amazing time-only dress watches from two of the most revered manufacturers in watchmaking, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37 mm and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119.
Old world charm against sleek austerity
The Saxonia Thin 37 mm and the Ref. 5119 are both dress watches with classic proportions (Saxonia: 37 x 5.9 mm; Ref. 5119: 36 x 7.2 mm). In this regard, they are similar, fighting against the trend of ever-growing dress watch sizes by staying true to their identity. That is however, as far as similarities go between the two timepieces (with respect to design). On one hand, the Ref. 5119 is a paragon of old world charm. The Roman numerals, seconds sub-dial and manufacturer’s marquee are black printed onto a white lacquered dial in a way that imbues an air of tradition and class. Even considering that, the most defining element of the Ref. 5119 remains the ‘clous de Paris’ hobnail pattern on its bezel. The hobnail bezel first appeared on the venerable Calatrava Ref. 3919 and has since become an iconic design, instantly recognisable not just by the brand’s enthusiasts but also the watch community in general.
The exceedingly charming hobnail bezel and domed sapphire crystal of the Ref. 5119 is tempered by the simple yet elegant dial.
On the other hand, the design of the Saxonia Thin 37 mm is better described as ‘contemporary’ and ‘austere’. The case lacks any defining features as it is after all a Lange stock standard case. The dial is even more minimalist, featuring only applied hour makers and two hands. Make no mistake, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Less is often more, and it certainly is the case with the Saxonia Thin 37 mm. What the Saxonia lacks in outright flair and heritage, it makes up for with design purity and sleekness. Besides, a dress watch is traditionally meant to be clean with minimal frills and the Saxonia with only two hands, no seconds or even a minute scale actually fits the bill perfectly.
The face of a true dress watch. The design of the Saxonia Thin 37 mm may not be as charismatic as that of the Ref. 5119 but its austerity makes it the ideal dress watch from a purist standpoint.
The architecture and aesthetics of the engine inside
Beating inside both watches are movements that were inspired from pocket watches of old. The Calibre 215 PS powering the Ref. 5119 is, in our opinion, the more visually interesting of the two. It boasts an architecture that is satisfying in that the bridge layout allows for superb visibility of the wheels. The Calibre L093.1 which […]
The post 1-on-1: Comparing the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37 mm and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.
Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo
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