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Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar
The grand dame of watchmaking has unveiled a new complete calendar timepiece as part of its also-new FiftySix collection: the FiftySix Complete Calendar. It joins the Harmony Complete Calendar (2016), Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 and 1948 (2017) and Traditionelle Complete Calendar (2018) in the list of complete calendar watches recently introduced by the brand. The new FiftySix collection is inspired by the vintage Ref. 6073 which was first presented in the year 1956 (hence FiftySix). The Ref. 6073 is distinguished by its shape and notably its lugs, each representing a branch of the Maltese Cross, the brand’s emblem. The FiftySix Complete Calendar, which displays the day, date and month, is a small step up in complexity compared to its sibling, the FiftySix Day-Date, but is just as practical for daily use. Here, we give you the details and our thoughts on Vacheron Constantin’s latest complete calendar watch.
The FiftySix Complete Calendar in stainless steel.
The case, dial and hands
The FiftySix Complete Calendar comes in a 40 mm case in either stainless steel or rose gold. The key design element of the case is in the lugs, which resemble the four branches of the Maltese Cross. They are not quite as pronounced as those on the Ref. 6073 as they flow seamlessly into the thick flanks of the watch. This gives the Complete Calendar a sportier, less antiquated look (which can be good or bad depending on taste). Another bridge between the past and the present can be seen in the old-school box-type crystal rising well above the bezel. Historically in plexiglass or mineral glass, the crystal is now in sapphire which is far more scratch-resistant. This also contributes to the retro-contemporary vibe that the FiftySix collection appears to be aiming for.
The case is entirely polished, topped with a box-form sapphire crystal.
The Complete Calendar, as the highlight of the FiftySix collection, has the best-looking dial of the lot. While it shares the opaline/sunburst-finished sector-type dial with the other watches in the collection, the triple calendar display on the dial gives the Complete Calendar a more interesting, sophisticated look by comparison. The two rectangular apertures at 12 o’clock indicate the day of the week and month as legibly as possible. On the opposite end at 6 o’clock, a bosom-style moon phase display adds colour and poetry to an otherwise pragmatic dial. In terms of aesthetics, the display is relatively austere, with a polished 18 k gold moon set in front of a simple blue backdrop – no stars or other adornments. That said, this is no plebeian moon phase indicator as it is highly precise and only requires adjustment once every 122 years. The date is displayed in a radial manner outboard of the hours, on a track that is adorned with fine guilloche that adds to the visual texture of the dial. Both the time and date are indicated centrally: lume-coated pencil hands to indicate the hours and minutes, a lancet-style hand for the sweep seconds, and a […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo
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