DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
Here, we review the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1R.6-1, yet another interesting iteration on the base FB1 movement. The same base movement powers the entire series. But the ingenious methods employed to harness this base movement is absolutely interesting. Apart from the case material changes, each of the iterations also carry interesting changes to the base movement. The FB1.4 saw the introduction of sapphire bridges in a titanium case in late 2017. And the latest iteration was launched in SIHH 2018 in the form of the FB1R.6-1 featuring a large sweep seconds hand in a regulator style dial showing the hours in digital format.
The F. Berthoud FB1R.6-1’s dial is strongly influenced by an original drawing published by Berthoud in the Traité des Horloges Marines (1773)
In the review of the F. Berthoud FB1.4, we spoke about how Karl-Fredrich Schuefele (KFS) went to great lengths to the re-interprete the works of Ferdinand Berthoud. KFS and his team certainly have not chosen the easy way out by copying the body of work already done by Berthoud, but instead, they chose to study the works, and re-imagine it as if Berthoud had access to the modern materials and technology existing today. The result is a series of watches which draw inspiration and direction from the Berthoud watches, clocks and drawings, but with a completely modern feel. The base movement, FB1 was developed with a suspended reverse fusée and chain system to power a large tourbillon, and a unique conical power reserve. And yet, each iteration carries with it some unique innovation. From the first FB1 to FB1.3, the main difference is the case material being offered, from white gold to rose gold and platinum (a specially developed platinum alloy) respectively. FB1.4 showed additional technical innovation being introduced. This being the use of sapphire glass bridges. Also accompanying the FB1.4 is the closure of the ports at the side of the case, now crafted in titanium.
And this leads us to FB1R.6-1, which carries a different design dialect, so to speak, as it is now a regulator. But not in the traditional sense. In a classical regulator layout, the minute hand occupies the largest real estate and the seconds and hours are subdials. The FB1R.6-1 features a regulator in the design first seen in a drawing published by F. Berthoud in Traité des Horloges Marines (1773). The dial layout is unusual, to say the least, leaving a large negative space for one to contemplate. And to focus on the elements which are presented on the dial. But also, true to the original drawing, a large centrally mounted seconds hand takes pride of place, and the hour display is on a moving disc as a subdial and displayed digitally. Prominently displayed is the patented power reserve mechanism. A rather bold design aesthetic, and perhaps a gamble. But one which we judge to have been taken with careful consideration and which we think is largely successful.
Ferdinand Berthoud FB1R.6-1
The naming convention is certainly a mouthful, and perhaps a more logical nomenclature […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong
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