Monday, June 18, 2018

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-105 CT Kryptonite

Then we get to the lume, and this is one I’d love to see in person. Ever since I was a young child with a glowworm toy sitting on the edge of my bedside table, I have loved things that glowed in the dark. My early Timex Indoglo, my Seiko SKX007, the glowing galaxy stars I stuck on the ceiling above my bed; these things were characterized by their ability to glow so brightly in the dark. With an application of Super-Luminova (it’s green, so we can assume C3), the UR-105 CT Kryptonite looks to leverage that torch-like dive watch appeal and the signature satellite wandering hours display is made possible by the UR 5.03 automatic movement. Running at 4Hz and offering a power reserve of 48 hours, it’s cased is titanium with an AITiN coating and the front cover is opened with the sliding switch above the time display. On the left, just above the hours/minutes display, don’t miss the wild digital seconds display, which updates for every 10 seconds via a system that weighs less than 1/10th of a gram. 



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Sunday, June 17, 2018

Auction Report: The McQueen Estate Disputes The Provenance Of Supposed Steve McQueen Submariner Being Sold By Phillips

For the two weeks since Phillips announced that it would be selling a Rolex Submariner reference 5513 given by Steve McQueen to his stunt man Loren Janes, the watch world has been buzzing. It’s not uncommon for watches with rich provenance to come up at auction, to cause lots of excitement, and to hammer for big money. Last year we saw Paul Newman’s Paul Newman sell for $17.8 million at Phillips, breaking nearly every watch-related world record in its wake. Before that there was the Bao Dai, and long before that there was Steve McQueen’s other Rolex Submariner that sold for $234,000 in 2009. 

But with those watches the stories were pretty straightforward. For provenance to matter, it needs to be reliable and everyone needs to be on the same page. With the Loren Janes Submariner though, a number of people have called the official Phillips story into question, most notably questioning the lineage of the watch on the block and whether or not Steve McQueen actually wore the watch himself for years before giving it to Janes. When there started to be smoke, we went looking for the fire. After lots of phone calls, emails, and text messages, it was looking like most of the commotion was nothing more than speculation. 

However, after reaching out to Steve McQueen’s son Chad McQueen, our call was returned by a lawyer for the McQueen Estate who, in an official statement, said that the family disputes the provenance as stated. While not quite fire, that’s pretty darn close.



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Undive Dark Sea Black Storm | Hands On Watch Review

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

What do you get when you mix a Seiko 6105 and a Panerai Submersible? The Undive Dark Sea Black Storm. (Also available with a steel bezel, dubbed the Cool Steel.) The straight truth is that there are many in the microbrand world that do straight up copies and others who take inspiration from a few different iconic watch models and come up with something such as this. It is a mix of a few and that is a recipe that does not always work. I feel it works with the Undive. I liken this to a production of a Seiko mod. For some folks reading that are not aware, Seiko Watches, especially the dive watches, are some of the most modded watches out there on the planet. Undive took that idea to the next level and created the Dark Sea. I like what they have done, but there is some important info you should know. I do not what is going on with this company at this point. Their website has not been updated and even though they sent this for review with the assurance they will be releasing more stock of their two models, I will say proceed with caution when it comes to purchasing from this brand.

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm Specifications:

  • 316 L Stainless Steel Case
  • (with DLC coating on brushed bezel (BLACK STORM version)
  • 500m / 50ATM / 1640ft Water Resistance
  • Helium Escape Valve
  • 120-click unidirectional bezel
  • DIMENSION
  • CASE SIZE: 45mm (47mm including crown)
  • CASE THICKNESS: 15.40mm (including crystal)
  • LUG TO LUG: 50mm
  • Seiko NH35 movement
  • Matte black dial with SuperLuminova BGW9
  • Sapphire crystal

Price $460 USD

https://www.undivewatches.com/dark-sea-500m

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

So, what is the deal with the Undive Dark Sea Black Storm? (That’s a long name isn’t it?) Well, it was originally funded on Kickstarter and looking into it, most if not all received their watches. Actually, and someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I do not believe anyone complained of not getting their watch, but that their watches had a misprint on the dial. Getting that replaced is where there have been some issues, both with the replacement and communications. That is a shame, as you can have a great product, but if you do not have good customer service, it can definitely damage your brand. That said, it is weird they would send a watch to a reviewer (I believe a few other reviewers and blogs have received one of these recently) if you are not planning on putting more up for sale. When it comes to the watch itself, they did produce a nice product.

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

Obviously, if you are not a fan of homages/copies etc, the Undive Dark Sea Black Storm (or the other model, the Cool Steel) is not going to be for you. If you are okay with such watches, I can tell you the build quality on this one is very good. I have never looked at a watch through a loupe, I do not even own a loupe, but when I do macro photography or videography, I can see the good and the bad. From what I have seen, this one is pretty darn nice, regardless of the price. The applied markers and lume seem to be pretty even, same with the hour and minute hand, the polishing and brushing are smooth and clean and both the crown and bezel operate without issue. So, at $460, what is the downfall? Well, normally I would say the movement…

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

Yes, the Undive Dark Sea uses the Seiko NH35 automatic movement.  Those are words I have become tired of typing or saying over the past two years, but the reality is it is an affordable hacking and hand-winding movement that if properly regulated can keep fairly accurate time. It is still not my choice of movement, and never will be. So why I am I okay with it in this package? There are a few reasons. 1. It comes in under $500, which is a price limit where I feel it is okay to use this movement. Why $500? Simply the sum of all parts, plus some other factors involved, I feel over this price, a different/better movement should be used. 2. The amount and quality of straps/bracelets this Undive comes with, which makes it a pretty nice package.

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

If you have not watched the video yet, go and ahead and do so where I show all this watch comes with. You should watch the video first anyways :-). As I show in the video, the Undive Dark Sea Black Storm comes with the VERY long rubber strap, which I forgot to mention is a Crafter Blue rubber strap. Not familiar with Crafter Blue? Go look them up. As a matter of convenience, here is their website: https://www.crafterblue.com/. As you can see, they make fitted straps for many of the popular Seiko Dive watches and also ones that will fit the Tudor Black Bay. I do not believe this strap on the Undive is available through their site, but it is a good quality natural rubber that should easily fit guys with wrists up to 9 inches. The Dark Sea also comes with a leather strap, a Nato strap, and mesh bracelet, none of which feel cheap or flimsy.

Undive Dark Sea Black StormUndive Dark Sea Black Storm

The lume you ask? Yeah, that is good too. A nice ice blue, compliments of BGW9 Superluminova, and if you look closely, red Superluminova on the 6105 styled second hand. How long does it last? It is about average. A few hours and it fades completely, though depending on how your eyes are adjusted to the dark, you might be able to see it 5 hours later, though we are talking pitch black darkness here.

Undive Dark Sea Black Storm

As most of you have probably figured out at this point, the real shame here is that there really are no glaring issues with the watch, but rather the company. The Undive Dark Sea Black Storm has a lot to offer for under $500. Looks are subjective, but I dig it. Beyond that, it has a sapphire crystal, a workhorse automatic movement, a DLC Bezel, 4 different strap options and a damn nice build quality. I am still scratching my head a little at the brand name, Undive, but if you move past that, it is a good deal and nice watch. The bigger question is, do you want to buy one from them? The fact the website or social media has not been updated is what is really bothersome. Hopefully, they are busy trying to rectify a few things, but I mean, it only takes a few minutes to at the very least go in and put an update on the website. For their first model, Undive put out a good product. As for what happens to them from here on, who knows. I hope they can get their act together and get things tightened up.



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You Asked Us: What Watch To Buy For My Daughter (b. 2018) For When She Turns 18?

Last week we received a question from one of our readers from Italy, who just became the father of a beautiful daughter about a month ago. He would like to buy a watch and present it to her when she reaches the age of 18, to have her own birth year watch. It is something we often see happening, that people are after a watch from their year of birth. If only my parents bought a nice watch when I was born, it would have made life so much easier.

This Week’s Question: What Watch Would You Advise Me To Keep Aside 18 Years?

Our Italian reader has been an avid reader of Fratello for a year or so, and he decided to shoot us an e-mail to ask this question. He wants to buy a watch that marks the year of her birth, a watch he can give to her in 2036. His mail to us was in Italian, so we will show you the translation:

“What watch (and in what size) would you advise me to buy to keep aside for 18 years? It also needs to preserve its aesthetic and functional value in 18 years from now.”

That’s a tough nut to crack, as it a) requires us to say something about the taste of a watch for someone else (who happens to be a female) and b) have us predict the future a bit when it comes to design. But we are happily picking up this question and give us some of our thoughts.

Also, we have not received any kind of budget for this special watch. On the one hand, this almost wants us to focus on a watch that fits in the average watch we cover here on Fratello, let’s say around €5000/$5000USD. However, it also gives us the freedom to come up with some other suggestions.

What’s Important For Surviving the 18 Years Timespan

What’s really important is that the watch is still working in 18 years from now, and not only that, it should also be able to be serviced and repaired if necessary. That makes me happy my parents didn’t buy a watch in 1977, as the manufacturer would have been probably bankrupt by now. That is if they would not have picked a watch from the established brands like Rolex, Omega, IWC, Seiko, Breitling etc. So, my first suggestion would be to go with a brand that is most likely to be still there in 2036 when your daughter turns 18. This way, chances are pretty big that the watch can still be serviced and repaired. For the latter, you want a brand or watch that is most likely able to do a proper repair in 2036 or later, with the proper parts available. By 7 years, this does not rule out Rolex. But it certainly doesn’t rule out brands like Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Zenith for example, who are able to – if necessary – reproduce any type of part necessary for any of their watches. So, no microbrands here, or independent watchmakers despite how beautiful the watches are that they make. Who is going to service your MB&F, HYT or Hautlence in 2036?

Beautiful, but not a good idea

What Size

Now, we would have to know your wrist size or that of the daughter’s mamma to make an estimate, but there’s another complexity here: we don’t know what will be the average watch size in 2036. Asked us 10 years ago and we were afraid it would be 60mm, but since things went back to normal again a bit, we would say you will be safe with anything between 36mm and 42mm for a lady in 2036. Today’s 36mm will not be the same in 2036 to what my grandmother’s 20mm gold Omega is today: very small. On the other hand, perhaps watches will be very small in 2036 and then 42mm would be gigantic. So let’s stick to a diameter somewhere between 36mm and 40mm, to be on the safe side. This definitely includes men’s watches, like the Rolex Datejust, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra but also a range of Patek Philippe dress watches or a Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet.

Tudor Fifty-Eight Daughter

Aesthetics

When it comes to the design of a watch, and whether it will still be something your daughter will fancy in 2036, is difficult to say. Taste is very personal, but to make life a bit easier, we suggest the following: go for an iconic watch. You know them: Cartier’s Santos, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso, Rolex’s Datejust, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava or Nautilus or the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. The latter is a dangerous model, including the Nautilus. Every time my wife sees the Royal Oak, she feels that watch is for old people, and I had that comment more often from ladies. So a Royal Oak is perhaps a bit too outspoken.

Designwise, it is also interesting to pick something that you personally like a lot. This way, the good taste of her father is also reflected in the watch your daughter will be wearing starting at 18.

I would stay away from outspoken colours as well. Like pink or yellow dials, certain motifs, or even a bi-colour case and bracelet. Keep it in one tone, like all stainless steel, or white, yellow or rose gold.

Our Suggestions

To finally come to some suggestions, lets recap our scope: it needs to be from an established brand, preferably one that will be able to service or repair any watch in 2036 (and after) that was bought in 2018, it needs to be somewhere between 36mm and 40mm in size, and it has to have an iconic – or timeless – design. Also, we take into consideration that your daughter has a slight preference for ladies’ watches.

Although rectangular or square watches are not to everyone’s taste, women tend to love them more than us men do. So our first suggestion would be a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Also, because we know they can service and repair everything and anything. If some part isn’t there anymore, they just recreate. You will also find Reverso models in many variations, colours and sizes. I am also of the opinion that value for money with Jaeger-LeCoultre is very high.

Reverso for your daughter

Our second suggestion is the good ol’ Rolex Datejust (we covered it extensively here). They’ve made this model since 1945 and they will probably still make it in 2245. It is a very safe choice, but you can still go wild a bit with materials and dial executions. The 36mm version is perfect.

Rolex Datejust Daughter

A 36mm Datejust, one of the many variations possible

Here’s something out of the box: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase. A 40mm watch, in red gold and with a mesmerizing dial. And a neat complication. We’ve been told women love the moon phase complication. This doesn’t come cheap, but since you didn’t give us a budget, this would be our pick in the high segment of watches.

Saxonia Daughter

Saxonia Moonphase

If you are reading this and have some other ideas and suggestions, it would be nice of you to share them in the comments box below this article.

Another Thought

Besides the suggested models, there’s another route you can take. It is the route that I am personally taking for my daughter. Why not buy a watch this year, wear it yourself during the next 18 years (either a lot, or only on special occasions for example), and then hand it over to your daughter. Then, she has a watch with true value and meaning because it was yours for 18 years and bought it in the same year she was born. I would have loved to get a watch my dad had worn for so many years. It really adds something magical to the watch, making you want to wear and keep it as long as possible as it would remind you of your dad. And, although I am happy with the watch I inherited from my grandfather, it is nice to receive a watch from someone who is still alive. So she can show you how much she appreciates it by wearing it and you can still enjoy the watch by seeing it on her wrist for the rest of your life (probably). Just give it a thought. A possible downside is that the watch might be very masculine, let’s say a Speedmaster or Submariner, but I think she will accept that. I hope my daughter does when the time is there.

Whatever you will buy, don’t worry, your daughter will cherish it anyway.

Daughter



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Saturday, June 16, 2018

Weekend Round-Up: A Capsized Ship, An Adventurous Raccoon, And Some Incredible Drawings Of Watches

High Tech Cowboys Of The Deep Seas – Wired

This nearly 10-year-old piece profiles the high-stakes world of big ship salvage work. Follow along with an outfit called Titan Salvage as they attempt to save the partially capsized Cougar Ace, along with the $100+ million dollars in Mazdas onboard. If they save the boat, they get a cut, if it goes down, they get nothing. With an Ocean’s 11-like crew of uniquely talented operators, the story of Titan’s work on this ill-fated boat is not to be missed.

– James Stacey, Senior Writer



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Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Just Because: Watchmaker Roger Smith Receives OBE In The 2018 Queen’s Birthday Honours List

This week the yearly list of of the Queen’s Birthday Honours was published in the United Kingdom and we spotted a familiar name. Mr. Roger W. Smith, one of the finest watchmakers on planet Earth (and a hell of a nice guy, if I may say so myself) has been made an OBE or Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire. The chivalric title is one of the highest honors that can be bestowed upon a British civilian and it marks a public contribution to society outside of the civil service, which can include contributions in the arts, sciences, sports, or other fields.



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Monday, June 11, 2018

Hands-On: The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO ‘Pepsi Bezel’ With Jubilee Bracelet In Stainless Steel

One of the most interesting aspects of Rolex, at this particular point in the company’s history, is that while vintage Rolex is a highly profitable commercial juggernaut for the auction houses and vintage watch dealers (for various reasons, which I won’t go into here) Rolex is now making, from a technical perspective, by far the best watches it has ever made (at its price point, it’s making some of the best watches, from a technical perspective, that anyone is making). Vintage Rolex is certainly a sentimental favorite but from a practical standpoint, unless you are deeply wedded to the best and most authentic possible expression of a mid-century aesthetic, there is no choice at all between vintage and modern. As a matter of fact, even if you are deeply wedded to the mid-century aesthetic, modern Rolex watches aren’t very far from their roots. 



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Saturday, June 9, 2018

Tips For (Affordable) Father’s Day Presents

It’s almost Father’s Day (June 17th), at least in a lot of countries around the world, and you might be searching for some (last minute) tips for a little gift. While nothing beats a nice drawing, painting or another DIY piece of art from your little girl or boy, at a certain age the presents start to become different of course. I will refrain from selecting watches as gifts because that’s most likely not the case for many of us. A gift for Father’s Day is most appreciated when a bit of thought and creativity has been put into it. Or just a simple visit to your dad for a coffee will do in a lot of cases as well.

That said, let’s have a look at some nice gifts for Father’s Day.

A Man And His Watch

Since your father is a watch guy (otherwise you weren’t reading this), he probably loves to read about watches as well. This ‘A Man And His Watch’ book by Matt Hranek is something every sensible watch enthusiast will enjoy. It is about real people telling about their favourite watch. What’s not to like about that? A very inspirational book, covering a variety of (mainly) famous and less famous Americans who have a special relationship with their watch, or with a watch. Highly recommendable. Price $22USD, click here for example.

Father's Day

Bergeon 6767-F Spring Bar Tool

Don’t screw-up and damage your watches by using cheap tools. Bergeon is well-known for their high-quality watch tools, so please don’t go for anything less. There are a number of variations for the Bergeon 6767 tool, but the -F should be fine. A great Father’s Day gift and sets you back around $25 USD, click here for example.

Father's Day

Wolf Watch Winder

Not cheap, but if you do have some money to spend on a gift, what about a watch winder? In my opinion, a watch winder is particularly useful if it can run on batteries (so you can put it in the safe for example) and is not making too much noise. I also prefer a single watch winder over an entire cabinet, but that’s because I am not in favour of keeping too many watches at home anyway. Wolf makes nice winders, value for money and tick all boxes when I would buy one myself (and actually I did, a couple of years ago). They didn’t have these nice and fresh ones that Wolf offers now, but I think I’d go for one of these cub models. Priced at 209GBP, click here for example.

Father's Day Gift

Watch Straps

You can never have enough watch straps as a man. It makes your precious companion even more versatile if you can switch from bracelet to strap, to NATO or even to a rubber strap for hot summers. Just make sure you know what the lug width is of the watch you want to buy it for. You can use a website like WatchBase.com to find out these details about most watches. In case you don’t know, just ask the company that sells straps. They most of the time know which straps go on which watches. Straps start cheap, but if you want something to last a bit, you have to pay a bit more. As simple as that. Go visit StrapsByFleur for leather straps like below, CrafterBlue for rubber straps and a nice selection of patinated straps from Two Stitch Straps. However, since time is short, make sure they can deliver in time to where you live.

Father's Day Gift

Leather Watch Roll

If dad likes to travel, a leather watch roll is a very thoughtful gift. This way, he can always bring his favorite watches with him. There are countless (small) companies who craft watch rolls, mainly from leather, so there’s a wide variety you can choose from. However, I happened to like this one, from Convoy. Price is $75, click here for example. Just make sure that his watches will fit. If he’s into large watches, try to find out if the slots of the watch roll are big enough for them. Also, make sure a watch roll can be closed (with a little rope like this Convoy one) or with Velcro band or something similar.

Father's Day

But more important than any gift you bring, make sure to enjoy your time with your dad. Talk watches, for example. And to all fathers out there, enjoy!



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The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Weekend Classes In Philadelphia

At HSNY’s Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick. The hands-on classes are taught by HSNY’s staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York.



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Friday, June 8, 2018

#TBT Stumbling Onto a Vintage Mulco Chronograph

Today’s #TBT on a vintage Mulco chronograph, isn’t so much about the watch. No, there’s not much info out there on this very watch, but that’s ok. Of course, I’ll talk about the aesthetics and the mechanical heartbeat found within this piece, but there’s a nicer, albeit short, story to this piece that’s worth repeating. Hopefully, you’ll walk away feeling that even in 2018, it’s possible to stumble upon a real bargain within a vintage watch world that’s gone quite mad.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

Back in late 2017, I was near the end of a several year daily search (read: many times per day) on eBay for “vintage chronograph”. My not-so-creative efforts to pan for gold hadn’t yielded much for at least the prior 12 months. Yes, there were watches worth a look, but they were no longer out for open bidding and often carried a very high “buy it now” price; you know the situation because it’s pretty similar today. But back to the story – I came upon a listing for the vintage Mulco chronograph you see here and it was sitting with a paltry $120 buy it now price.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

Now, the listing was pretty fresh, but it had been out there for at least a couple hours, so the instant buyers clearly weren’t impressed. The pictures were dark, they weren’t overly clear, and it was pretty darn clear that all of the lume had fallen out of the hands. The watchcase was chrome plated while the snap case back was stainless steel, but the yellowy pictures didn’t show a whole lot of base material coming through the case. It carried a (not so) lovely gold crown and the chronograph wasn’t working. Now, at this point, despite this being a vintage Mulco chronograph, it sounded like any old battered Landeron-powered Chronographe Suisse that often teases the eye on eBay. Inside, though, lurked a lovely column wheel movement Valjoux 22 and that right there caused my itchy mouse finger to go forward with a solid “click”!

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

I received the vintage Mulco chronograph and I immediately knew that it was money well spent. Depsite 18mm lugs, the case comes in at roughly 38mm. Interestingly, the Valjoux 22 checks in at a massive 31mm in diameter, so you’re virtually guaranteed to find a modern-sized case on any watch using it. The lug design on the Mulco, as you can see, features convenient drilled through lug holes and also a really nice design that breaks downward sharply. If you go and take a look at some other older Mulcos, many, including those housed in Spillman cases, feature a similar design.  The overall look from the side is slim and somewhat delicate and reminds me slightly of the Gallet Decimal that we reviewed previously.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

I asked our resident watchmaker Paul – who graciously took time away from stitching vintage Hermes ties into a quilt – to replace the crown, the crystal, fill in the hands, and to get the vintage Mulco chronograph up and running again. Normally, I’d leave the hands alone, but as Paul wasn’t removing any original radium, adding some aged colorant seemed like the right thing to do. Plus, he did a great job in matching the hands to the lume on the dial. I think you’d agree, the watch came out very nicely.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

Taking a closer look at the dial of the vintage Mulco chronograph, you can see a well-used white background that certainly shows some signs of paint loss. However, it has aged attractively in my view. The blue tachymeter and red telemeter tracks add just enough pop to make things interesting as well. My look at other old Mulcos also points to all the hands being original, sans the lume on the main hands of course.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

As you can see, this piece is just formidable enough on the wrist to find favor with most who decry anything less than 36mm. Most importantly, for me, rescuing a piece like this from its former condition instills a touch of pride when wearing it.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

The Valjoux 22 found within this vintage Mulco chronograph, on the other hand, is a certifiable gem. The movement traces its roots back to the 1910’s(!!) as a pocketwatch movement but really hit its stride in the 1940’s. It apparently soldiered on until the 1970’s and that makes one seriously long running movement. It’s a smooth operator to wind and use and lopes along at a leisurely 18000 bph. As one who really enjoys Valjoux 72-powered chronographs, this is a nice addition. You’ll note that it’s signed P.W. Extra on the bridge and the only information I found about this leads me to believe that this was a contract house that built watches for various brands.

Vintage Mulco Chronograph

All told, this vintage Mulco chronograph cost about $350 including its sale price and the service. For sure, a certain level of patina needs to be in your wheelhouse when considering watches like this and you have to be willing to take a bit of risk if something is non-functional. In the end though, what it does show is that there are still some decent deals out there for those who search constantly. Perhaps I need to start my eBay searches again. 😉



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