MAALS Watches Debuts Jump Over The Moon Timepiece

Microbrands are becoming increasingly popular for several reasons. Watch fans respond well to timepieces that have been crafted with an obvious attention to detail, while a clear passion for the industry is desired. Few up and coming brands achieve these goals, but a new British microbrand is setting a standard for high-quality watches with a winning personal touch.

MAALS Watches is a new microbrand that has debuted its website this month and will begin crowdfunding on Indiegogo shortly. Encapsulating the sleek craftsmanship and aesthetic of several inspirations, the company’s Just Over The Moon range of watches are destined to become mainstays in timepiece collections around the world.

In more ways than one, the Jump Over The Moon is truly a work of art. That’s no surprise considering the brothers who have nurtured MAALS into an exciting new microbrand have a love of design. With that in mind, the Jump Over The Moon harks back to the bold stylings of 70s classic watches, boasting an elegant finish and effortless charm.

Design

In the early process of creating MAALS, the brothers were heavily influenced by their love of watch collecting, and specifically 70’s style jump hours. It was an obvious choice to debut with a jump hour style, so the team set to work on creating something that would stand out from the crowd.

The Jump Over The Moon certainly succeeds thanks to its luxurious aesthetic. One of the standout aspects of the watch is its relative simplicity of design. MAALS says it did not want a “heavily designed” watch and instead sought a subtle form with enticing splashes of detail.

To achieve the ambition of a dignified timepiece harking back to classic designs, the company set out some important guidelines for the design process:

1. First things first choose a movement type
   1. For reliability and our own piece of mind, it had to be either a Swiss or Japanese movement.
   2. No extravagant complications
   3. Can it be modified for our needs?
2. It had to have a nod or two to the 70s style jump hours
3. It had to have a second hand
4. It had to be affordable for people to buy
5. Less can be more, it’s the little things that count

Jump Over The Moon

After a careful design process, MAALS turned to a Hong Kong-based ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) to build the company’s debut watch. Jump Over The Moon is the result, a timepiece that can be deemed an instant classic thanks to its undoubted build quality and attention to detail.

Featuring Japanese Miyota 6P24 quartz movement, the 42mm watch is a fantastic achievement for a microbrand. Indeed, it mixes well with established brands to be a very enticing choice for those seeking a highly functional and eye-catching jump hour. Among the watch’s features are a central second hand, alongside hour and minute discs.

In terms of setting the design off, the triangular opening step set above the six numeral is the undoubted star of the show. Two rotating discs sit inside the triangle and show the consistency of the movement with a very accurate moon phase element. Jump Over The Moon completes its moon cycle every 29 and a half days.

Jump Over The Moon comes with a domed back dial, and a domed mineral crystal underside with anti-reflective coating. MAALS selected a curved steel snap-on case back and a laser etched crown to complete the design.

Speaking of the case back, the company partnered with Okse (Chris Oxenbury), an artist who turned his talents to create unique and exclusive artwork for the back. Depicting an astronaut jumping over the moon, the art is beautiful to look at and also creates a talking point. Moreover, the artwork shows the distinctive touch MAALS is specializing in, and it’s something aficionados will likely love.

Jump Over The Moon is available in two finishes:

• Black Steel with a black case, black leather strap, and curved black caseback
• Brushed steel with a grey steel case, brown leather strap, and curved brushed steel caseback

Crowdfunding Campaign

The Jump Over The Moon watch is available now directly from MAALS, through the company’s website. However, MAALS will also be launching an Indiegogo crowdfunding campaign on the 23^rd July, allowing customers to back the company at a 35% discount for early birds while buying a unique moon phase watch.

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Speedy Tuesday – Omega Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide Part 1

This is an updated version of our Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide, one of our best-read articles on Fratello since 2014. It has been a while since we’ve given this a proper update and prices have changed over the last few months and years. Although this article is not meant to be a price guide, there are some indications included.

If you are already a Speedmaster collector, this might not be interesting to you, as I will cover some basic information as well. However, I will make it a multi-part article that gets more ‘enhanced’ over time. Also, I would like to make this a ‘living document’ that means I will add new information as time passes so it will always be up-to-date. If you have anything to add, please let us know using the comments box at the end of this article or via e-mail. Please use the contact form.

A 145.012-67

Introduction to the Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide

An introduction to the Omega Speedmaster isn’t necessary we think. We all know about this iconic timepiece, so let us give an introduction to how-to use this Speedmaster buyer’s guide instead. Bit and pieces of the extensive Speedmaster history will be covered when discussing some of the models (reference numbers) out there.

In this series of articles, we will focus on the various steps to take when you are in the process of buying – or collecting – Speedmaster watches. I will give some hints regarding Speedmaster prices, but as this may vary on the part of the world you are living in (taxes, currencies) I won’t emphasize on this too much.

For now, much more important are the details you should look for when you’ve found a Speedmaster of your choice.

Omega Speedmaster Models

One of the questions I often receive is to give some guidance in all the different models out there. If you are new to Speedmaster watches, it might seem like a bit of a horological wilderness. If you’re looking for the actual Moonwatch model (the reference that went to the Moon), read this article validated by Omega. If you are looking for the current Omega Speedmaster Professional that is closest to the original Moonwatch, click here.

I will not go into detail in each model or reference number, as we probably did so in one of our Speedy Tuesday articles. Use the links given in the article or the search function on our website.

I will make a distinction between the following models for this Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide:

• Speedmaster (Professional) ‘Moonwatch’
• Speedmaster (Professional) Mark Series
• Various other vintage Speedmaster models

For now, I will skip the modern collection of Speedmaster watches with the F. Piguet based 33xx movements, the Speedmaster caliber 9300 (a.o. Dark Side of the Moon)  and Racing Caliber 9900 models and so on for this Omega Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide. They will be added in a later stadium.

Speedmaster (Professional) ‘Moonwatch’

Although not all of these Speedmaster models in this section are considered a ‘Moonwatch’ – as they were introduced way before NASA chose Omega to become the official timepiece for their astronauts – I will still use this category for them in this Speedmaster buyer’s guide. These early models are considered to be the ancestor of the Moonwatch.

Speedmaster CK2915

The very first Speedmaster as Omega introduced in 1957. Together with the Seamaster 300 (CK2913) and Railmaster (CK2914) this model had a sporty look with its curved lugs, black dial and broad arrow hands. Initially meant to be a sports chronograph, using the dashboard clocks of Italian sports cars of that time as an inspiration.

The CK2915 has multiple versions (you will find a -1, -2, or -3 added to the reference number) that could be considered more or less as small updates if you want. If you are looking for a CK2915, expect to pay a fortune (recent results have sky-rocketed the price of the CK2915). More important: try to find an original one that has not been tampered with. There is so much money going on in these very first models, that it also attracted crooks that are after your money. In a bad way. Newly made cases, movements from other watches, refitted bezels from a later period and so on. Be very cautious in any case.

CK2915

The CK2915 houses the Omega caliber 321 movement, with a column wheel chronograph. This Lemania (caliber 2310) based movement went out of production in 1968 when Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional 145.022.

Speedmaster CK2998 & 105.002

Often considered to be the second best thing when it comes to vintage Speedmasters, but a small confession has to be made here. I love this version actually a bit better than its predecessor. This particular reference number already looks a bit like the ‘Moonwatch’ with its black bezel and Alpha hands. Where the first Speedmaster had a bit of a military look, in my opinion, this watch is a more subtle sports chronograph.

CK2998-1

There is quite a bit of variation in the CK2998, where the different styles of hands are the most important identifier. One of the most sought-after CK2998 models is the one with the ‘lollipop’ chronograph second hand.

The 105.002 needs to be mentioned as well. There is actually no real difference between the last variation CK2998(-62) and the 105.002 except for the reference number. Omega changed the reference number syntax, which means getting rid of the CK identifier and 4 digit numbers. The 105.002 was actually made in a very small period of time (1962) before its successor was introduced (105.003). This makes the 105.002 perhaps even more collectable than some of the CK2998 models.

CK2998 models – Photo by NielsZ

Oddly enough, in the past I’ve been offered 105.002 for quite a bit less money than a CK2998. Expect to pay approximately 25.000 Euro for a nice Speedmaster CK2998. When there is a box or/and papers as well, the price will be influenced. You might also be interested in the so-called FAP models that were delivered to the Peruvian Air Forces.

Speedmaster 105.003

The 105.003 reference already looks a bit more like the Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’, with its white baton hands. This Speedmaster is actually the most affordable pre-Professional model out there. Prices of this 105.003 reference have gone up in the last few years, expect to pay at least 10.000 Euro for a good condition model. 105.003 that are pristine can and will surely add some thousands extra.

105.003-65

The Speedmaster 105.003 was introduced right after the ‘transitional’ 105.002, in 1963. It was in production until 1966.

Speedmaster Professional 105.012 & 145.012

The 105.012 and 145.012 are actually the references used by Apollo 11 astronauts. It is also the model that has the a-symmetrical case due to the use of crown guards. These crown guards were added after NASA commented on the risk of knocking off the pushers due to rough use. The 105.012 and 145.012 are considered to be the certified models and used Professional on the dials since 1966. Before that, as you could read above, the ‘Professional’ wording was used as well on the 105.003 for no (particular) reason and in small quantities only. It is verified that Buzz Aldrin wore a 105.012 when he set foot on the Moon while Michael Collins wore his 145.012 when waiting in the capsule for Aldrin and Armstrong to get back. Armstrong didn’t wear his watch as the Bulova board clock broke down, as the legend goes.

A 105.012-66 with CB case

145.012-67 ‘Ultraman’

The strange thing is – although it is common to accept that the 105.012 and 145.012 are the true Moonwatch models – that these references are the least expensive calibre 321 Speedmaster Professional watches you can buy. The 145.012 is a bit more common and was the last calibre 321 in production, until October 1968. You will be able to find a 145.012 starting around 7500 Euro. The 105.012 is considered to be a bit more valuable, you will find them with cases made by suppliers HF and CB.

Click here for our Speedmaster 145.012 Buyer’s Guide.

Speedmaster Professional 145.022

In 1968 Omega decided to update the Speedmaster a bit. The dial doesn’t feature the applied Omega logo anymore (although you will find the occasional ‘transitional’ model where Omega probably grabbed parts that were still on the shelves in Biel) and the movement has been changed to the Lemania based Omega calibre 861. This movement does not have a column wheel mechanism but a cam lever. The 145.022 has been in the collection until the around 1983.

Speedmaster Professional 145.022-69 on a leather strap

In those early years, the dial was ‘stepped’ like the previous calibre 321 dials. These are a bit more sought after than the late 1970s and 1980s models. Also, later 145.022 models should be easy to find with box and paperwork. Expect to pay approx 4500 to 5000 Euro for a decent early Speedmaster Pro 145.022, more for a complete version with box and papers.

There are also a few different case backs for the 145.022, from the similar 145.012 caseback to the current case back with the ‘First Watch Worn on the Moon’ inscripted case back. Most sought after are the ones with horizontal inscription (which also comes in two flavours, the most sought-after version is where it has Apollo XI 1969 engraved below the “First Watch Worn on the Moon” inscription).

The 145.022 is also the reference number for a gold model. One with a burgundy bezel as a commemorative edition for the President of the USA, other members of the White House and Apollo astronauts. We wrote a Speedy Tuesday article on these gold models often, but also have an overview for you with all gold Speedmaster Moonwatch models. Prices on these gold models start around 25.000 Euro, depending on condition.

Speedmaster Professional 145.0022 and Later References

Since 1983, Omega started using the 145.0022 coding for the Speedmaster Professional. Until the late 1980s, when Omega changed the coding system to their PIC system. In 1989, the 3592.50 was the Speedmaster Professional reference. Actually, it was only the reference coding that changed in 1983. In the late 1980’s, other things such as the bracelet also changed. In 1997, the movement was upgraded the Omega calibre 1861 (small modification in construction) and the dial and hands were applied with Luminova instead of Tritium. This update was done with the reference 3570.50 (although the few very first of these references still had a tritium dial and hands). The current reference number of the original Moonwatch is 311.30.42.30.01.005.

Update: We did a specific Speedmaster Professional 145.022 Buyer’s Guide here.

Speedmaster (Professional) Mark Series

Often covered for Speedy Tuesday are the Mark series. If we do not consider the Speedmaster Professional (145.012/145.022) as a Mark I, there are 4 official Speedmaster Mark Series. The first one was the Mark II (introduced in 1969), followed by the Mark III, Mark IV and Mark V.

Even though some of them were also considered a Speedmaster Professional, none of them were flight qualified for manned space missions by NASA. Only the Mark II and Mark V feature the same hand-wound movement as the Speedmaster Pro 145.022. The others have different automatic (Lemania based) calibre 1040 chronograph movements. The last Mark, the V, was introduced in 1984 and is the last one of this series. Below, a Mark III, Mark II Racing, Mark 4.5 (see next paragraph).

These Mark series are not as popular among the majority as the Speedmaster Professional, prices start at around 2000 Euro. Some models tend to fetch more though, also depending on condition and whether they are complete with box and papers. We covered the Mark series often here on Fratello and perhaps we will find the need to create a Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide on its own for these models.

Various other vintage Speedmaster models

A small correction – although it was never official – on the text above. There is a watch that is being considered the Speedmaster Mark 4.5. This is a watch similar to the Mark IV, but with a Lemania 5100 based movement (Omega caliber 1045). Another Mark related watch is the Speedmaster Teutonic, a watch very similar to the Mark V but also with the Omega caliber 1045 movement. The Teutonic was only meant for the German market in the mid-1980s. Prices are around the same as the Mark series.

Another Speedmaster that should be mentioned here is the Speedmaster 125. It marked the 125th anniversary of the Omega company in 1973 and has this big clunky case and features Omega calibre 1041. This is basically the same movement as the calibre 1040 movement, but with a chronometer certification. In fact, it was the first automatic chronograph movement with chronometer certificate ever. It was always assumed that there were only 2000 made of this watch, but recent research seems to fight this number. Also, it is quite easy to find one, so the produced number must have been much bigger. Expect to pay around 2500 Euro for a good condition model.

Other collectible Speedmaster models worth mentioning in this Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide are the early Speedmaster Professional Moonphase watches (1985). Only 1300 were made of this model and highly sought-after. Later on (in the 2000s), Omega did a re-release of this particular model and it is still in the collection. Another highly-sought after Omega Speedmaster is the one with the ‘Professional’ case and with Lemania 5100 based Omega calibre 1045 movement. This Speedmaster Automatic reference 376.0822 has also been nicked ‘the Holy Grail‘ by the late Chuck Maddox. Only 2000 pieces have been made in 1987. Be very aware of the watches that are being offered with service parts. This should be reflected in the price. A good bit of research and price indication can be found here.

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Quartz LCD models are also interesting for those who are into buying Speedmaster watches. Perhaps not an everyday wearable piece, but certainly interesting to own.

Although there are a couple more Speedmaster watches that are probably worth mentioning here, these are the models that fetch most request per e-mail. Let me know if you are missing any other specific collections here.

End of Part 1 of the Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide

This first part of our Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide gives you an introduction to several important Speedmaster models. I emphasized the ‘Moonwatch’ models a bit more than on the other Speedmaster families. For specific Speedmaster price guidelines, also make sure to visit Speedmaster101.com.

Click here for the Omega Speedmaster Buyer’s Guide Part 2

*This article was published first on August 5th 2014 and updated with new information and images.

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Business News: Richemont Retools For A Changing 21st Century Marketplace

The launch of Baume (yep, just Baume), a new brand for Millennials marks a first for Richemont and is another response to changing times. In this case, concerns that traditional wristwatches are not on the radar of Millennials. The watch is not Swiss-made and not a luxury piece. It is assembled in the Netherlands and uses Japanese movements (Citizen’s Miyota) for its quartz and automatic collections. It also uses Swiss (Ronda) movements for some quartz pieces. Its hallmarks are that it is affordable (priced at $650, $630 and $1,100), customizable, available on the web, and produced with care for the environment. (See Jon Bues’s report on Baume here.) 

“What is Baume?” asked Grund at the financial analyst meeting in May. “It’s young, it’s eco-conscious, it’s digital. I think that captures the essence of it.” And, he added, “For us, it’s a bit of an edgy proposal, being in a quite conservative industry.”  

Lambert welcomed “the birth of a new maison within our portfolio.” Baume was developed by a special team within Baume & Mercier (hence the name) but has its own management team. Lambert explained the strategy. “We want to recruit new clients for the luxury watch segment, and it is very important for us to nurture the desire step by step, and to continue to raise the relevance of fine watchmaking to a new generation. We go one step further with Baume. It’s a different positioning for clients interested in shopping digital, personalization, and an environmental awareness approach.”

If you want a glimpse of how Switzerland’s watch brands will navigate the omnichannel, brick-and-click future of the luxury watch business, keep an eye on Richemont.

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Hands-On With The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar – And It Is Under 2000 Euro

Most of you who want to buy a watch, select based on price and brand name. It turns out that very few are after a specific complication. But for those who do care about functionality, there are a couple of interesting propositions on the market for perpetual calendars, moon phase watches, chronographs, divers and now an annual calendar as well. Brands like Montblanc and Frederique Constant achieved being able to offer a perpetual calendar under 10.000 Euro not long ago. This year, Longines makes it possible for you to buy an annual calendar with their Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar watch for under 2000 Euro.

Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar

This year, Longines caught us by surprise by showing this 40mm watch that could be categorized as a dress watch but also perfectly as a ‘daily watch’ for any occasion except sports. At first sight, it looks a bit like your average dress watch from Longines: sleek, stylish and with a practical date and month aperture on the dial. Most enthusiasts who read Fratello, and most likely some of the other titles out there, are more interested in the Heritage collection. It was even last week that I gave the new Heritage Legend Diver in black a spin here on Fratello. This new Longines watch with annual calendar complication isn’t part of the Heritage collection, but of the Master Collection. The last time we reviewed one of the watches from that collection was in October 2014 and it was a Longines Master Collection Moon Phase model that also had to offer quite a bit of bang for the buck. But that watch was very different from the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar I have for you today. It’s a stealthy toned down watch with its three hands and 40mm case design. But inside is where the magic happens: an annual calendar.

Annual Calendar versus Perpetual Calendar

We’ve explained the difference often here, but just in case you haven’t read it, or simply haven’t heard about annual calendars before, here’s a short explanation. If you own a watch with a date feature, you occasionally run into the issue that the date aperture indicates it is the 31st of a month while it is actually the 1st of the new month. Your watch doesn’t know whether it is June or July. Digital watches are the exception, of course, as those are programmed centuries ahead.  Some people find this annoying because they now need to advance the date by hand or when your watch does not have a quick-set date, you need to advance the hands 24 hours. An annual calendar is programmed to know which months have 30 days and which ones have 31 days. The exception is for February, so on the 1st of March you still need to correct your watch. If you want to have a complication that can be set once and will run for decades or even centuries without one single correction on March 1st, you need a perpetual calendar. But those often come with a very different price tag, as mentioned at the start of this article.

The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar indicates the date and the month on the dial, so there’s only one correction necessary on the first day of March. The rest of the year will go smoothly on each first day of the month. Quite an interesting mechanical complication, don’t you think?

Annual calendars normally don’t come cheap. Even in the pre-owned market of watches, an annual calendar of Swatch Group sister brand Omega is already around 4000 Euro. So a retail price of 1940 Euro for the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar is – by far – the most accessible watch with this complication. Longines did a great job here.

Four Models

There will be four models, or executions, of this new Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar. You can go from a very classic, black dial with Roman numerals and a leather strap, to a version with stick markers and a blue dial on a stainless steel bracelet. We have the silver dial model (stamped “barleycorn” motif) with Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, on a leather strap. This is perhaps the ‘in-between’ variation of this watch. In total, Longines offers four different models so you can pick the one that suits you best. The three mentioned variations have a retail price of 1940 Euro, then there’s one with 13 diamonds on the dial that will retail for 2260 Euro.

Longines Calibre L897.2

Inside we find the ETA (calibre ETA A31.L81) based Longines movement, dubbed L897.2. Besides the awesome annual calendar complication, this movement also offers you a lot of power reserve with no less than 64 hours on a fully wound mainspring. The watch ticks at the somewhat unusual speed of 25.200vph. And we would have fully understood when Longines decided to refrain from a nice optical finish on this movement and hide it for the owner beneath a steel case back. But Longines did not. Their calibre L897.2 has actually a nice finish, Geneva striped on the rotor and a bit of perlage on the plate. The rotor also has been engraved (in gold) with ‘Longines’ and the calibre number. As always, I find that there’s a bit too much other text engraved on the case back, but others might enjoy it.

Some Thoughts On This Watch

I started this article with the statement that not many people buy a watch because of a complication. That’s information based on the data we have collected over the years, but that doesn’t mean there’s no-one out there who just wants to have an annual calendar, perpetual calendar or moon phases watch and only then looks at the available brands and models. Most of the time it starts the other way round. If you’re looking for an annual calendar in an affordable (most affordable actually) price range, the Longines is a great candidate. This would most likely also mean that you have to like the design of one of the four Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar variations of course. Longines did a nice job by creating 4 variations that are aiming at different ‘profiles’. Clever.

To be dead-honest I found the design a bit dull at first. The new Longines Record collection, for example, is something I’d prefer myself if I needed a dress watch. The watch only came to life when I noticed those two words at 6 o’clock: Annual Calendar. Reference L2.910.4.78.3  is what you see in this article, but if you – like me – prefer the watch to be a tad bit sportier, the reference L2.910.4.92.6 might be the one for your (blue dial, stainless steel bracelet). I definitely praise Longines for creating a watch with an annual calendar at such an interesting price level. Because Longines included the ‘Annual Calendar’ complication in the model name of the watch, I doubt that they will incorporate this movement (and thus complication) in a lot of other watches in the future. However, if they will also make at least one sports model with an annual calendar, that would be even more awesome.

That said, the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar is unbeatable in price, also given the fact that it comes with an alligator strap on folding clasp or a stainless steel bracelet.

The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar will be available later this year, with a retail price of €1940. Visit the official Longines website for more information.

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Introducing: The Timex Marlin Blackout, A Todd Snyder Exclusive

I have always appreciated the Timex Marlin. Finally, a good-looking, modern watch that winds, all for under $200. As someone who steadily trends towards lusting after higher-value pieces, I find the Marlin both refreshing and a good buy. The black dial version (as opposed to the original silvered dial), is a great change as it lends itself to being more of a dress watch. Speaking of, have you looked for a manually-wound dress watch for under $200 lately? Yeah, the options are pretty limited if you ask me. This is by far your best bet, and you’d better hurry if you’re interested since supply is very limited. The only thing to note here is the movement: It’s marked as MOVT CHINA, and while Timex has not confirmed the origins of the movement a lot of people have speculated that it is a Seagull ST6.

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A Collector’s Talking Piece Formex Swiss Watches

Here’s why my new Formex watch made my (every) day

An unaltered customer review by Robert Block, California USA – Software executive and passionate watch nerd

My watch collection, like most I suspect, covers all the bases – the chronograph, dress watch, sports watch, the watches for work and weekends as well as some vintage pieces. For me, each watch tells more than just the time. They are my personal style, statement and represent craftsmanship, tradition and passion. Each addition has been chosen with care and there is a story and a reason behind each timepiece I collect. As a software executive in Silicon Valley California, I spend a large part of my time solving problems with the latest hardware and software technology. I also love the user experience in my new car, the latest model of carbon fiber mountain bike, the latest cellphone. But in watches, I am old school and committed to analog only.

I was looking for something unique, something not everybody has

I have been looking to add to my collection, because as any watch aficionado knows, there is always room for something unique and different and a small Swiss brand has caught my eye. Formex Swiss Watches have been around since twenty years but they have been in the news recently for shaking things up in the normally traditional world of watchmaking. Their new, young CEO Raphael Granito took the brand in a radical new direction by moving the company from the bricks and mortar retail model of old to an innovative direct to customer approach. I know, they’re by far not to only watch brand realizing that by jumping over the middle men, they can offer better prices (look at all the countless new Kickstarter brands). However, they’re the first established Swiss watch brand to switch completely online and pass on these saving on to the consumer.

Bob Block, California USA – Software executive and passionate watch nerd

What sealed the deal for me

I do have a sports watch in my collection but I am drawn to their Automatic three-hand Pilot limited edition model with carbon fiber elements, clear readability, date window and sapphire crystal exhibition case back. This watch is rugged and sporty, mixing traditional watchmaking with modern cutting-edge design and material. Besides its obvious visual appeal, the unique and unusual case is what caught my attention. Formex’s approach was to look to the engineering and design of high performance bikes and racing cars and integrated four little springs in between the lower and upper watch case. This cushion concept is a clever mechanism that provides shock absorption to protect the mechanical movement. It might sound like a gimmick, but in fact makes this rather rugged watch wear surprisingly comfortable, as the case adapts to my wrist’s motion. With the four hexagon screws on top of the watch and the visible springs on the side, the suspension system gives a distinctive and incredibly sporty look to every of their timepieces.

Formex’s unique Case Suspension System absorbs shocks and adapts to the wrist’s motion

Formex is not stuck in the past

Besides being an avid mountain and road biker, paddle boarder and airplane pilot, I’m not sure if I engage in any activities that would seriously test my watches; Formex, however, most certainly do. CEO, Raphael Granito, is an avid sportsman who pursues many high-octane pursuits, from motor sports to surfing, skydiving and snow sports. And to showcase his watches’ credentials he has partnered with some exciting athletes all of whom put their Formex Watches and the case suspension system through their paces across a variety of adrenaline fueled sports. That such talented sportsmen have embraced these watches speaks to the success of the case and the protection it provides for the watch movement and the comfort it offers to the wearer. I met Granito in person when he and his team were exhibiting at a watch fair in San Francisco in May 2018. I guess I was expecting a suited up stiff Swiss boardroom executive and was all the more surprised to see a young ambitious dude with trucker hat and beard. At the latest when he showed me his App that lets you try on their watches in AR with your smartphone, I knew this brand is not stuck in the past but focused on innovation and able to shake up pinned down principles in the industry. Same applies to their newest development, the Essence Automatic Chronometer, which I saw in prototype form in San Francisco. It’s a slightly smaller and beautifully designed COSC-certified Chronometer. They integrated the Suspension System into the case to make it look more sleek, and added a nifty carbon fiber composite folding clasp that allows for fine-adjustment of the strap length on the go. Talking about the price tag, I can’t think of anything comparable on the market that’d be able to match up. In line with their new and innovative business model, they will release this model on Kickstarter in late summer, which I think is a great idea.

Formex’s newest development, the Essence Automatic Chronometer – available on Kickstarter later this year

My next timepiece

My Formex became one of my top wrist-choices for basically every occasion, it’s bold and sporty but doesn’t feel oversized nor tacky. However, what really sealed the deal for me is the unique case and suspension system and whilst I will probably not be taking up skydiving or test my biking skills on the next cliff to prove its resilience, it’s reassuring to know that I don’t have to treat my latest acquisition with kid gloves. All my watches have something interesting or unusual about them and this clever mechanism is a great talking point and a very valid reason to add this striking watch to my collection.

I know this might sound unreal, but in fact it was me offering to Raphael that I write down and share my Formex experience. Formex doesn’t sponsor me in any way nor did they offer me any discounts or vouchers (come on Formex :)), I genuinely love their watches, their business model and appreciate the direction their team is taking the brand. I secured myself the Kickstarter Early Bird Special for the Essence Chronometer by putting down a small deposit on their website. I truly believe that if you don’t have to shine with a flashy brand name but look for a unique and high-quality everyday watch that looks elegant and casual at the same time, that’s probably the best deal you can land these days.

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Sunday Rewind: That Time Jack Played With Magnets At Work

Sometimes things get weird at HODINKEE headquarters. Case in point: that one time that our esteemed editor-in-chief, Jack Forster, thought that it would be a good idea to bring a super powerful neodymium magnet into a room filled with watches new and old. In case you need a reminder, magnetism is the archenemy of mechanical watches, basically destroying their ability to accurately keep time in intense enough applications. So what was Jack thinking? That’s easy: He was going to take two watches that boasted about their anti-magnetic abilities and put them to the test. 

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