Hands-On With The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition: SPB085

We had the pleasure to go hands-on with the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri, or reference SPB085. I say pleasure, but this watch has a dial that is quite difficult to capture if you’re without the proper equipment. And it is exactly that dial that makes this Seiko Presage SPB085 so special.

Although Seiko is rushing out limited editions like there is no tomorrow (just like many other brands), I have to say that many of them simply look stunning as well. The demand from the market is for limited editions, so brands like Seiko just simply fulfil them by releasing one every once in a while. Yesterday during an event we organized with Blancpain, one of the guests made a remark that limited editions weren’t really ‘a thing’ 10-15 years ago. Well, they actually were of course, as we see also many limited editions of certain watches from the 1990s and 2000s, I just think that the market wasn’t as transparent as it is today. Because of the internet, it is immediately ‘out there’ when a brand is releasing a limited or special edition for a specific country or market for example. In the past, only people in that market (or country) would know about it. That said, I try to look at the watch itself if I just like it or not, not specifically as a limited or special edition. For me, that’s never a real reason to purchase a watch, either I like it or I don’t.

Seiko Presage SPB085

I don’t think the Presage needs an introduction, but if you want to read more about this Seiko collection, you can read our previous articles on these watches in our Seiko section. Seiko takes details very seriously, and the Presage collection is especially – in my opinion – about dials. In the past we showed you this beautiful Sakura Fubuki edition and the SPB069 with beautiful blue enamel dial, both limited editions as well, of course.

Shogun’s Armor

This new Presage SPB085 goes by the name, as you’ve read in the title and introduction of this article, Urushi Byakudan-nuri. Now, this does need some explanation. These names, Urushi and Byakudan-nuri, are the names of lacquer techniques. There are different lacquer techniques that vary in complexity or difficulty, the Urushi and Byakudan-nuri techniques are considered to be the most elaborate ones. Seiko’s Presage reference SPB085 uses a combination of these lacquer techniques to create colours that should remind you of the sky and moon just before dawn. I kid you not. It doesn’t stop to amaze me how Seiko (and Grand Seiko) comes up with these type of descriptions, which are often very spot on (remember Snowflake or Mt Iwate?). I might sound a bit cynical, and of course I write this with a smile, but that doesn’t take away anything from the sincere admiration I have for these lacquered dials. What Seiko tells us, is that these lacquer techniques were used almost exclusively for important places (such as temples and shrines) or objects such as the armor of Shogun warlords. And now, for Seiko’s Presage SPB085.

Layers

Not only the techniques as mentioned above are used for the SPB085’s dial, but there’s also the Maki-e technique. First, the dial is made jet black with a hand-painted black lacquer. It is directly painted on the metal base of the dial, then dried, following by polishing. This is the Urushi technique. It is being repeated by the artisan until the perfect level of black has been achieved. The subdials, as you can see, are then sprinkled with a metallic powder. It now needs to be repainted with a red-tinged semi-transparent Urushi lacquer again. These steps are repeated until the required effect (of a nice deep red tone) is accomplished. For the moon shaped power reserve indicator, the Maki-e technique is being used. As with the Byakudan-nuri technique, the crescent is first coated with a layer of Urushi lacquer that acts as the adhesive to the fine, gilt-colored powder that is then applied to it. Once the powder is on the dial, the craftsman gently taps it to disperse the powder evenly across the surface and then uses his own specially chosen material to perfect the surface. Each dial is the result of painstaking efforts over a number of weeks because this Byakudan-nuri technique requires much longer than is needed for a simple Urushi dial.

These dials are completely done by hand in the studio of Urushi master Isshu Tamura, in the Hokuriku region of Honshu (Japan’s main island). All Urushi dials that are used for the Seiko Presage collection have been made under his supervision.

The Watch

Aside from the dial and the craftsmanship that goes into it, let’s also take a look at the Seiko Presage SPB085 in total. The dial is of course one of the main attractions here, and probably very decisive on both the wannahave-factor as well as the price tag of the watch. Seiko Presage watches start at 410 Euro, go up to four digits but below the positioning of Grand Seiko. Where the entry-level Presage models have a caliber 4R movement, the more expensive models have a 6R caliber or even the chronograph 8R movement. Interesting to note here is that the 6R caliber Presage SPB085 I am talking about here, has a new feature compared to the existing 6R caliber Presage models. You might have seen it already on the images, but this Seiko Presage SPB085 with beautiful lacquered dial has a week indicator at 3 o’clock. The date indicator is at 6 o’clock and at 9 o’clock you will find the aforementioned crescent with the power reserve indicator.

6R21 Movement

The 6R caliber movements are a step above the 4R movements and the 8R movements are basically the more complex chronograph movements in this range. For this Presage SPB085, Seiko introduced the weekday indicator at 3 o’clock. The other features were already existing in the 6R27 movement from the same series.

This movement has a power reserve of 45 hours (the indicator on the dial shows 0-10-20-30-40 and the crescent continues a bit after ’40’) and the ticking number is 28800vph. Via the transparent caseback, you will be able to enjoy the view on the caliber 6R21 movement.

As you can see, the finishing of the movement is very pleasing to the eyes. Tokyo striping on the rotor for example and a mix of brushed and polished finishing on the plates. The rotor has been engraved and gold-filled with all necessary information. The crown is signed and large enough to grasp and wind & set the watch.

The bezel of the case back contains a lot of information you don’t necessarily need to know. However, if you are buying a limited edition, it is at least nice to know the unique number of the watch. In this case, it indicates 0001/2000, but don’t worry (if you are after the no.1), this one is a sample model that travels around the world.

SPB085 On The Wrist

With a diameter of 40.5mm, the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri limited edition probably fits most wrists. While some of the Presage models, such as the SSA363J1 with caliber 4R movements have a rather thick case, this SPB085 model has a 12.8mm thickness. Not exactly your ultra-thin watch, but with a 40.5mm diameter and a calendar complication I think it is fine.

The Seiko Presage SPB085 comes on a croc strap with a folding buckle. A good looking combination, especially with the lacquered dial a bit of ‘chic’ is in place here. On the dial there’s a lot going on, with the power reserve indicator, the weekday and date subdials as well as the use of different colors. However, the readability of the watch is perfect. The large Roman numerals might not be to everyone’s liking (I could have done with more modest stick markers or at least smaller numerals), but it does give the watch a classic touch.

Limited to 2000 pieces worldwide and the watch has a retail price of 2500 Euro (including VAT). It will be available in December 2018 at selected Seiko boutiques and dealers. The price of 2500 Euro might seem a little steep compared to some of the other Presage models, but keep in mind that this hand-made dial is truly unique and involved many hours of craftsmanship.

More information via Seiko on-line.

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#TBT Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver – Crazy Accuracy in a Familiar Case

Today on #TBT, we’ll discuss the Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver. Yes, it’s another Seiko, but hopefully one that you’ve either not heard of or have stumbled across a review. Plus, the SBCM023 may look very familiar upon first glance, but I think you’ll agree that there’s a lot more at work than meets the eye. If nothing else, I hope to provide a look at what can be deemed as a brief “stopgap” period of technology before something user-friendlier came on the scene. Let’s get to it…

The Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver is a quartz-powered 200M ISO-rated dive watch. It contains a perpetual calendar movement (caliber 8F35) that’s accurate to a jaw-dropping 20 seconds per year (normal quartz has a +/- of roughly 3 minutes per year if you were wondering) due to a high frequency oscillator that boogies at 32KHz. If you’re wondering what a perpetual calendar is, it’s a movement designed to “know” when to change dates accurately without the user having to adjust for things like leap years and those pesky months with less than 31 days. In case of this Seiko, once it is set, it will change the date correctly up until the year 2100. Sorry grandkids, you’re screwed. Oh, and the lithium battery inside will keep the SBCM023 running for up to 10 years (Seiko claims 8) before it needs to be replaced.

As mentioned, the Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver looks an awful lot like our favorite (and now truly confirmed as discontinued) Seiko SKX007. The stainless steel case looks the same, but it’s actually 5mm smaller than the 007’s and comes in at 39mm in diameter (more in the range of the current SKX013). The lug width is down to 20mm and strap/bracelet changes are made simple due to drilled-through lugholes. The dial also looks identical, but a keen eye will note the lack of a day wheel and that the indices are applied rather than printed. Don’t worry, the Lumibrite employed is just as ridiculous here as on other Seiko divers. The uni-directional bezel is also slimmer, but contains the exact same font as found on the well-known SKX’s. Finally, the screw-down crown is a bit more pointed at end versus the flat look most know. The 023 follows the SKX’s with its use of aHardlex crystal.

Introduced in 2003, the Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver was joined by the 025 with a red & blue Pepsi bezel and an orange-dialed 029. The watches were part of the Prospex series and at least the 023 retailed at 31,500 JPY or $300 – 375 depending on the exchange rate at the time. Interestingly, this quartz series of divers were only made for the Japanese market, but word grew amongst the Seiko faithful during their production and a fair number were brought into areas such as Europe and the Americas. Perhaps Seiko felt that such an eccentric and relatively expensive movement within a modestly sized dive case wouldn’t have appealed to Westerners. Frankly, this is one time where Seiko likely made the right choice – this is an awfully specific watch.

The Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver was cancelled in 2010 and most feel that the primary rationale for its demise was the increasing popularity of satellite watches. These interactive GPS watches negated the need for semi-affordable high accuracy quartz movements with a perpetual calendar function. It also seems, perhaps due to price, that the SBCM-series weren’t huge sellers in Japan anyhow during their roughly 8 year run. Now, as is the case for so many retired watches, people want them.

I’d been passively looking for a Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver on and off for over a year when the piece you see here came up at auction in Japan. It was complete with box, outer box, papers, hang tags, etc. and I paid somewhere around $450 for it. That’s not cheap money for a quartz Seiko diver on any planet, but considering that there’s normally heavy bidding that often reaches $600 for these, I thought it was more than fair. After sizing the bracelet with its pin and collar system, I’ve been wearing it frequently.

Aside from the fact that the goofy wetsuit extension on the Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver often causes the fliplock to pop open, it’s a comfy Oyster-like bracelet with nice lightweight, stamped end links. We’ve mentioned this many times before, but a quartz watch can be a convenient grab-and-go piece. When it’s something a little different and made with high quality bits like this Seiko, it’s even better.

So, one thing we haven’t discussed regarding the Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver is how to set the darn thing. When I received the watch, it was set correctly, but to Japanese time. Simply moving the time backwards was the same as on any other watch. Then, by popping the crown out one stop and pushing it in within a second, the watch goes through some electronic gymnastics to show the leap year with the sweep hand (I don’t quite get this) and then the date window scrolls to the month, pauses, and then changes back to the correct date. Once the battery dies – I’m guessing I have a year left as this one dates to 2009 – the actual resetting occurs under the case back. Apparently, it’s a 10-minute job including the removal of the tsunami-engraved screw-down case back, but I’ll likely leave that to the fine folks at the nearby boutique. If you’re interested, this is the user manual.

The Seiko SBCM023 Perpetual Calendar Diver is yet another example of the brand coming out with a product that was rather advanced and targeted towards what had to have been a small audience. Whether it was answering a question no one was asking is something we will never quite know, but collectors and Seikophiles seem more than interested today. Despite its familiar looks, this is a high quality diver with a novel movement that keeps time within 20 seconds a year, which makes it a fun and, still, relatively affordable addition. Until next week…

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In The Shop – In The Shop: Four Nostalgic TAG Heuer Chronographs

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10 Years Of Glashütte Original’s PanoInverse – We Take A Look (Video Included)

Exactly 10 years ago, in 2008, Glashütte Original introduced their PanoInverse XL watches. As you probably know, Glashütte Original is located in the watchmaking capital of Germany with the same name; Glashütte. This village, near Dresden, hosts a number of watch brands, but only a few can measure themselves with the Haute Horlogerie that Glashütte Original manufactures. In 2008, the PanoInverse XL was introduced by them, to show their skills when it comes to this Haute Horlogerie, and were available in white and rose gold. Now, 10 years later, the PanoInverse is still in the collection of Glashütte Original. Not completely identical, but with some small changes. We were curious to see how this watch holds up after 10 years, and if we can already speak about a Glashütte Original classic.

Above, the two original PanoInverse XL models that were introduced in 2008.

Glashütte Original PanoInverse

In rose gold and white gold, to fulfil the demand by customers that wanted to enjoy the aesthetics of their movement. A movement that, since 2002, uses a duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The designers and movement constructors at Glashütte Original came up with the hand-wound caliber 66 movement at the time, showing the balance bridge on the dial side. The engineers from the small German watchmaking village had to make quite some adjustments to come up with a visually pleasing solution, that not only showed the movement but would still also be a perfectly readable watch. So in 2008, the PanoInverse XL was born. Mind the XL, as other watches were still much smaller at the time with 39.4mm, Glashütte Original felt the need to indicate they’re talking huge here. The PanoInverse XL had a diameter of 42mm and still does today, only they decided to drop the XL because many of the other Pano watches are now sized 40mm (since 2012) and 42mm isn’t considered to be very large anymore today. Over the years Glashütte Original also introduced other Pano models with XL designator, as those were also 42mm but these models have been phased out meanwhile. So exit XL, but what stayed was the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse.

Caliber 91-02 and 66-06

In 2014, Glashütte Original felt it was time to add a new version of the PanoInverse model. One with an automatic movement, caliber 91-02. This is the PanoMaticInverse, where the ‘Matic’ of course refers to the self-winding movement that is being used. Today, we find both models in the collection, the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse. The PanoInverse uses hand-wound caliber 66-06 and the PanoMaticInverse the aforementioned caliber 91-02. What changed is that the PanoInverse became available in steel only, and the PanoMaticInverse in steel and in 18-carat red gold. As pictured above.

Below, photos that Berti took of the caliber 66-06 hand-wound movement and the caliber 91-02 self-winding movement.

Hand-Wound

Glashütte Original sent us two watches, the PanoInverse with hand-wound movement and the PanoMaticInverse in red gold, with self-winding movement. When we visited their manufacture in Glashütte some time ago, we have been told that their high-end watches all have the hand-engraved balance cocks. This is also the case with the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse. The hand-wound caliber 66-06 is an iteration of the caliber 66 that was used in 2008. It has a diameter of 38.3mm and a thickness of 5.95mm. Glashütte Original ensure that the owner of this watch will have a good time observing it, as the finishing is beautiful and partly done by hand. The front side shows the 3/4-plate that is so distinctive for Glashütte watchmaking. You’ll find bevelled edges, Glashütte striping, perlage and chatons have been used for the rubies.

Self-Winding

Caliber 91-02 is the automatic movement for the PanMaticInverse, and an alternative for those who don’t like hand-wound movements or want something in gold. The gold PanoInverse (XL) has been discontinued, so it is only available with this automatic caliber 91-02 movement. The level of finishing and the type of finishes are the same for hand-wound caliber 66-06, added with a beautiful rotor that has a 21-carat gold oscillating weight (rotor mass).

A Classic Or Outmoded?

Now, most of the watches with a skeletonized dial or no dial at all, are very classical. A number of brands have (re)introduced watches with dials that have a large aperture that shows the beating heart of the watch, which can be very attractive for some people I guess. Then, there are watches that have a skeletonized movement (and no dial). To be honest, I don’t see many of them being a watch for someone who loves a modern mechanical watch, most of them are small, thin and look a bit fragile. It is a matter of preference for a certain style, but the Glashütte Original PanoInverse in steel and the PaniMaticInverse in red gold are contemporary watches and will suit the young enthusiastic watch guy as much as they might do someone who has been collecting for many decades.

Compared to the 2008 PanoInverse models (pictured at the beginning of this article), you will find that today’s models are bit more toned down, have a smaller bezel and now also available in steel. Yet, the watch is unmistakably a PanoInverse (42mm). This watch definitely belongs to the core models of Glashütte Original and is here to stay. I’ve been told that the PanoInverse models, especially in stainless steel, belong to the brand’s best sellers.

One who is interested in high-end watchmaking and appreciate a beautifully finished movement will surely value the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse models from Glashütte Original. To capture the beauty of these models, we decided to do a little video of both the PanoInverse in steel and the PanoMaticInverse in red gold.

 

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Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver 42mm

As Ulysse Nardin has streamlined its product line-up over the last few years, the Diver family has become one of the collection’s anchors (if you’ll pardon the pun). Until now though, these mostly three-hand-and-date watches have been on the big side, sitting at 44mm or larger. Today that changes with the introduction of a new collection of Divers that preserve the aesthetics and details of their larger brethren but in a more manageable 42mm size. Sure, that’s still not approaching vintage diver territory, but it’s definitely a huge difference that will open this collection up to many new people. There are both blue and black dial/bezel variants and a handful of great strap options to choose from, including two different steel bracelets.

While most of the watches are part of the main collection, there is one limited edition Diver 42mm, the so-called Blue Shark, which has a steel case with a matte blue PVD coating and a blue dial with an orange shark down at six o’clock. It comes paired with a matching blue textile strap with orange stitching and is limited to just 300 pieces.

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Speedy Tuesday – Magnus Walker 911 And His Omega Speedmaster

Exactly 6 years ago today, at the beginning of Speedy Tuesday in 2012, we featured Porsche 911 collector and fashion designer Magnus Walker and his Speedmaster Automatic 176.0012 from 1974. I thought it would be nice to highlight this feature once more, as it is not only a very cool reference but also to watch the documentary on Magnus Walker again (below).

Magnus Walker and his Porsche 911 and Speedmaster. Photo (c) https://www.autickar.cz

Magnus Walker Speedmaster

Years ago, I noticed Magnus Walker wearing his Speedmaster Automatic 176.0012 (Mark 4.5) in a copy of TopGear magazine. I contacted him and asked him about his Mark 4.5 for a feature on Speedy Tuesday. He was happy to cooperate and sent me some images of his Speedmaster Automatic 176.0012. I got the impression there wasn’t really a story to it, otherwise than that he just liked the watch.

Inside the Speedmaster Automatic 176.0012 is Omega caliber 1045, based on the Lémania 5100 movement. This chronograph was in production for a number of decades until it was discontinued in 2003. Omega already stopped using it in the 1980s, after using it in the Mark 4.5, Mark V and Speedmaster 376.0822 (Holy Grail) for example. Although the late legendary Speedmaster collector Chuck Maddox was a big fan of this Lémania movement, it wasn’t the best or most reliable movement. Although I personally preferred this 5100 caliber to the Valjoux 7750, the 5100 did have some issues. Especially during service, the parts can be difficult to source and are relatively expensive. The date mechanism, for example, is connected to a perspex date support plate that is prone to crack at some point. This alone will set you back a few bones. Then, there is a wheel with plastic pinion teeth that will wear out and needs replacement (expensive). That said, I do love the fact this movement is so quirky with its nylon/plastic parts and of course because of the nice dial layout (with central second and minute chronograph counter).

Urban Outlaw

Urban Outlaw Magnus Walker is most famous for his work on Porsche, his collection and stunning images on 911s. On his wrist, you will often find this Speedmaster Automatic 176.012 or a Porsche Design chronograph (by Orfina) in black. Make sure to follow him on @magnuswalker on Instagram.

Really interesting is to see how passionate Magnus is about Porsche 911s in the short movie Urban Outlaw. This documentary, based on his life and passions, is definitely worth watching and it will include some cool shots of the Omega Speedmaster as well. As Magnus at some point notes in this documentary ‘..Porsche is a brand built on loyalty..”, I think the same goes for the Speedmaster watch.

For your convenience, I embedded the ca. 30 minute movie Urban Outlaw here on Fratellowatches. I found it to be an inspiring movie about a guy who is passionate about Porsches, his work and basically life.

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H10: My Favorite HODINKEE Story: James Stacey

There is some narcissism in selecting one’s favorite anything, and in this case it’s because this a piece I wish I had written. In fact, while this piece predates my tenure with the ‘Dink, I recall DM’ing Ben on Instagram immediately upon reading it to offer my support for the work. Cars, watches, old school motorsports, and a guy that just seemed to “get it” at a high level – Briggs Cunningham is a fascinating character in the history of American motorsports and, as I learned from this piece, has remarkable taste in watches. 

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A Closer Look At A Submariner Big Crown Four Liner 6538

This is a Rolex you won’t see every day: the Submariner Big Crown Four Liner 6538. Four Liner refers to the four lines of text on the dial that not only indicates the model name (Submariner), depth rate (200 meters / 660 feet) but also that it is an Officially Certified Chronometer.

Submariner Big Crown

Although it is definitely related to today’s Rolex Submariner, this reference 6538 chronometer model is something else! With a diameter of ‘just’ 37.5mm, it looks very distinguished and the big crown (8mm diameter) gives you immediately the feeling of having a proper vintage tool watch on the wrist.

A 1957 Reference 6538

In the early days of the Submariner (introduced in Basel in 1954), things were a bit messy with the references and models. It clearly shows that Rolex was still ‘prototyping’ with their professional divers watch in those first few years. References 6200, 6205 and 6205 were available with quite some variation in the dials. You’d even see one with the ‘Explorer’ set-up regarding the dial. With the later 6536(/1) and 6538, the way was paved for the later 55xx series, but they still came with quite some variation. The 6536(/1) was rated 100 meters water resistance and the ‘Big Crown’ 6538 200 meters. The Submariner Big Crown 6538 was in production from 1954 to 1959. The watch we have here dates back to 1957.

Big Crown – James Bond

Although many vintage Rolex Submariners (here is our article on the history of Submariners) are being referred to as ‘James Bond‘ watch, only the reference 6538 with big crown has been used in 007 films Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger. The earlier reference 6200 and later 5510 also had big crowns for example, but it was exactly the reference 6538 watch that was featured in these movies. The crown has been signed with ‘Brevet’, which is the French indication for a patent.

Chronometer Cal.1030 Movement

New for the 6538 (and 6536/1) was the caliber 1030 movement in 1956. The 6538 references prior to 1956 also had the caliber 1030 movement, but without the chronometer certification. Of course, Rolex needed to express this certification and did so on the dial with the famous two additional lines of text: Officially Certified, Chronometer. So this explains the ‘four liner’ designation. There are a number of variations again in this printing, as later on, Rolex added ‘Superlative’ in front of ‘Chronometer’.

Sought After

The Rolex Submariner Big Crown is a highly sought-after model, especially this ref. 6538. Phillips showed me this Big Crown Four Liner during their viewings in Geneva last month, and this particular watch will be auctioned on December 5th 2018 in New York. The original chronometer certificate from 1957 is also part of the lot, just like the box and original guarantee paper.

On the case back, there is this engraving that reads “GES 362-24-6858”. It is to be believed by Phillips that it refers to one of its previous owners by the name of George E. Stoddard (1924-1997) and that this person had his initials and social security number inscribed. According to the auction house, this was done in case of loss (and particularly relevant if Stoddard served in the military).

Bezel

Phillips indicates the bezel of this watch to be exceptionally rare, also referred to as the Mk2 bezel. A red triangle, no minute divisions (normally until the 15-minute marker), drilled and no lume pearl. I had never seen this one before, but I am surely not a Submariner expert.

Phillips Auction

This Rolex Submariner Big Crown ref.6538 has been estimated between $300,000.- and $600,000.- USD (€261,000-521,000) which shows that expectations are high. It is definitely a rare piece, but I don’t feel the love myself. The superlatives (to keep it in style) used by Phillips in their catalogue description of this watch are breathtaking, spectacular, and fascinating. What the last watch auctions in Geneva showed is that collectors are definitely willing to spend on pieces, as long as they are of high quality. A good trend, if you ask me. I am no soothsayer though, I have no clue where the bids on this Submariner Big Crown 6538 Four Liner will end. It is definitely rare and sought after, and perhaps the reference to own if you are into collecting Rolex Submariner watches.

The auction lot can be found here.

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