Wednesday, October 31, 2018

You Asked Us: Is This Watch A Good Investment?

This week’s You Asked Us is about the most asked question since about a year or two: Is this watch [name any model or brand] a good investment? Every single day we receive this question via email, our contact form, Whatsapp, or direct messages on our Facebook and Instagram channels. I thought it might be a good idea to give a generic answer to this commonly asked question, as we roughly give the same answer to this question all the time.

You Asked Us: Is This Watch A Good Investment?

Please don’t feel offended if you read your own question to us below, they aren’t bad or wrong, we just want to show the type of questions we receive concerning watches as an investment.

“What is a better investment, the Seamaster 300M or the Tudor Pelagos?”

“Is this a good investment, I found it for $450?” (picture attached to the mail of a vintage Longines)

“Will the ST2 keep its value?” and “Which Speedy Tuesday will keep better value?”

“Which watch is the best investment for $3500?”

“I can keep only one watch of [inserts entire collection], which one will keep the best value?”

“What’s a better investment: Rolex Submariner 14060 or 16610?”

You get the drill. We try to answer all questions as far as possible, but it almost boils down to the same answer in the end.

Speedy Tuesday "Ultraman"

We Understand Money Is Important

You can only spend it once, we understand. We also get that you don’t want to buy something that loses half of its value as soon as you leave the place you bought it from. But in the end, it remains an object that you should be wearing, or that was at least made for wearing and daily use. It is normal that it drop in value as soon as it is used, and it’s rather abnormal that such an item will increase in value. Only a few do, and you can probably name them just as well as we can. Any stainless steel sports Rolex, a Patek Philippe Nautilus, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ and a vintage Omega Speedmaster [Professional] and probably a few more. They are all bound to sell for more than they did 6 weeks ago.

Royal Oak 15202ST - Investment

For a lot of these watches, historical data is available via eBay, forums or the Chrono24 Collection app for example. It will give you a good understanding of selling prices in the past and today. This might give you a hint of what might happen in the future, but there are no guarantees. These tools can help you if you want to make a purchase that will retain its value or at least a large portion of it.

Killing The Fun

Although it is a comforting idea that some of the watches in my personal collection progressed well over time, I am not planning to sell them anyway. I bought them to wear them; my vintage Speedmasters, Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ and Submariner. Even my Speedmaster Professional ‘Silver Snoopy Award’. I bought most of them for a fraction of the price they list for today. When I think of it, it sometimes makes me almost uncomfortable to wear them, but I quickly recover from that thought and put it on the wrist anyway. I bought these watches to enjoy them and not to keep them in a safe to treat them as an investment. Not only that, but keep in mind that we are not talking about a unique painting or sculpture (which you also shouldn’t put in a safe). It is a (mass) produced item that was designed to be worn.

Ultimately, it kills a bit of the fun in collecting watches. A while ago we got blamed by people on a certain forum that we were partly responsible for the hype on (LE) Speedmasters and the crazy pricing. But we never ever urged you to purchase a watch over retail price, buy to invest or to flip. On the contrary. Never buy over retail and if you missed out on a limited edition, well, there will be a next one. If you really can’t stand it that you missed it, then there is always the possibility to fund the wallet of a lucky flipper or someone who regrets his purchase (or needs money).

Rolex GMT-Master II 126711CHNR - Investment

For example, the increased demand for stainless Rolex models caused by their potential flip-value, makes it more difficult to purchase one of these watches for your own wearing pleasure. Earlier this year I was on the market for a Rolex GMT-Master II, but it was simply not there, even the new bi-colour (rose gold & steel) is simply unavailable. Well, it is, but with a pretty steep markup at grey market dealers (and douchy authorized dealers) and to me, that’s not worth it. I will keep my money in my pockets or just buy something else I do like and is available for the normal retail price.

Our Answer

Normally our answer is in the same direction as what I described above. Based on historical data and information, the watch might be a good or solid investment, but we don’t have a crystal ball and are not financial advisors (I left that industry a while ago). In fact, we always advise the sender of the message that he (or she) simply likes it and wants to wear it. “Buy what you like” is our motto, whether that’s a Rolex Submariner reference 5512 or a Maurice Lacroix Aikon, if the watch sings to you, you should buy it. Same with limited edition watches, be it from Grand Seiko, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer or Omega Speedmaster, don’t buy it just because it is a limited edition, buy it because you like the looks, story, movement or whatever is important to you. Perhaps you just want to collect them. In any case, make sure to enjoy your watch! If you buy a watch that you think will become very valuable over time, how much good is that on the wrist? Will you feel comfortable wearing such a piece? Every scratch will represent high depreciation, at least in your mind. Buying a watch that will retain its value is a nice thing, and it might play a role when you purchase one, but make sure you are comfortable wearing and using it as a watch too. It was made for that. And as always, do your homework and don’t depend on [random] people’s answers too much, nobody has the crystal ball.

Have something to add or want to share your opinion, do so below in the comments.



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Introducing: The Breitling Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown

I am all for projects that do good, particularly those with a focus on nature conservation. When I heard the partnership was with Outerknown and Slater though, I was really stoked. The watch itself is 44mm, in a black DLC-coated stainless steel case with the Outerknown logo engraved on the caseback.

The COSC-certified chronometer features an ultra-hard scratch and shock-resistant unidirectional ceramic bezel with a luminescent central dot at the 12 o’clock position. The Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown is powered by the Breitling Caliber 13 mechanical chronograph movement, which is based on a Valjoux 7750 and has the familiar three-register layout with day and date at three o’clock. The blue dial is great, with a really rich tonality that is further complemented by the all-important strap.

“We are happy to have this chance to strengthen our collaboration with Kelly Slater, who is a member of our Surfers Squad and co-founder of Outerknown,” said Breitling CEO Georges Kern at an event in London last week. “By introducing the ECONYL yarn strap, we are taking another important step in our commitment to sustainability. We are looking forward to introducing other great watches equipped with these straps in the future.” I applaud Breitling for looking at ways at integrating sustainability to their products while still making sure the products themselves are of high quality and good design.



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Tuesday, October 30, 2018

Speedmaster Spotting – James Corden (Carpool Karaoke With Michael Bublé)

Let me start by saying I don’t care much for celebs. Often, I don’t even recognize them or know who these people are. It is embarrassing at times when a watch brand invites their ambassadors over at SIHH for example, and I don’t have a clue who they are. It could also be me because I just have no interest in most of them. I don’t look up to them, to be honest, although during a recent event I asked to be in a picture with a famous person for the very first time in my life (Alfonso Ribeiro, who played Carlton Banks in the Fresh Prince). But hey, that’s nostalgy.

I know that many people do enjoy these watch spottings on famous people though, entire Instagram accounts and websites are dedicated to them. So for this Speedy Tuesday episode, we have James Corden with a Speedmaster on his wrist.

James Corden

Our reader and friend of the show (and author himself) Nick Gould pointed out that James Corden is wearing a Speedmaster. Now I didn’t watch Little Britain, nor the Late Late Show, but I know James Corden from his karaoke videos (Carpool Karaoke) in which he interviews singers (and sings a few songs with them). In the past, I noticed that James Corden was wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but Nick Gould informed me that he is wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional during his ‘Carpool Karaoke’ with Michael Bublé.

I have to admit that one of Corden’s previous episodes with Paul McCartney made a huge impression on me, definitely causing some tears to escape unwantedly. If you haven’t done so, I suggest you watch this episode of Carpool Karaoke (here).

Michael Bublé and James Corden (wearing a Speedmaster)

Michael Bublé

The episode where we see James Corden wearing a Speedmaster is with singer Michael Bublé. Bublé gives away a couple of performances in the car with James, including “It’s a beautiful day” which has special meaning to me actually. On May 31st when my daughter was born, she had to stay in the hospital with my wife for a couple of nights. On the warm June day when I drove to the hospital to pick them up and bring them home, Michael Bublé’s “It’s a beautiful day” was playing on the radio and although I know the lyrics are not exactly about a newborn, it couldn’t be more perfect. Just like James Corden in their video, on my wrist a modern Omega Speedmaster Professional on a bracelet that I picked up earlier in 2013.

Michael Bublé and James Corden (wearing a Speedmaster)

Aside from the performance that Bublé gives in the car, there is a heart-breaking part about Bublé’s (now) five-year-old son Noah who suffered from cancer. Something you don’t want to think about when being a parent, but it happened to Michael Bublé and his wife, and where he normally doesn’t want to talk about this period, he now does.



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Hands-On: The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition

As with the original version, for serious movement enthusiasts, the big draw is perhaps less the design per se than the configuration of the automatic winding system and the tourbillon. The peripheral winding system is a variation on a standard automatic winding system: an oscillating weight, set in motion by the arm movements of the wearer, winds the mainspring and keeps the watch running. In a conventional automatic winding system, the rotor sits on top of the movement plate, which has two potential disadvantages: first, the rotor adds thickness to the movement; and second, the rotor tends to obscure the view of the movement itself (this is of course assuming the movement is something you would want to look at in the first place). 

One possible solution to both problems is to use a micro-rotor, which is set into the movement plate itself; as there are no free lunches in mechanical engineering, this comes with its own set of drawbacks, including a reduction in available space for the barrel, going train, and regulating organs, as well as inherently lower efficiency. Another solution, which is somewhat more rare, is to put the winding weight on the edge of the movement plate and on the same level – this is the so-called peripheral winding system.



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ARPIEM Debuts Tribute Collection To Classic Motor Racing

ArpiemTribute Collection

ARPIEM

What makes a good racing watch? It’s a question we often ask ourselves and the truth is there have been countless excellent racing timepieces over the years. Some criteria we look for include a strong build quality, smooth design elements, and more than a touch of class. French watchmaker ARPIEM is encapsulating all of these factors and more with its stunning new Tribute collection.

Indeed, ARPIEM has done something truly interesting with the Tribute watches. The company has crafted a series of timepieces that evoke the glory days of motor racing while showcasing the best of modern craftsmanship and manufacturing.

By using unique designs inspired by the racing world of the 60s and early 70s, the ARPIEM Tribute collection is instantly desirable. With an original design and undoubted quality, the range provides original and affordable racing watches that will appeal to aficionados.

ARPIEM’s new collection is now available on Kickstarter as the company seeks to gain funding. The company is seeking just over $20,000 and is almost certain to achieve much more than that goal as the Tribute series is already making waves on Kickstarter. Pledges for a timepiece start at 179 Euros, a generous price considering the obvious quality on display.

Tribute Collection

The Tribute collection comes in four unique and interesting watches:

ARPIEM TRIBUTE TGH – Inspired by British motorsport great Graham Hill, the TGH is a romantic call-back to the sixties. The halcyon days of racing are brought back to life and you will feel the era wrapped around your wrist. ARPIEM has designed the Tribute TGH in navy blue and white to represent the color of Hill’s racing helmet. Features of the watch include an engraved buckle, stainless steel Milanese mesh strap, and a quick release strap. Little touches like a red number 5 to show the number of Monaco GPs Hill won just add to the mystique of the watch.

ARPIEM

ARPIEM TRIBUTE TBML – New Zealander Bruce McLaren serves as the inspiration for the TBML. Despite passing away in 1970, few people have had such an influence on racing as McLaren, and the TBML is a sporty homage to the legend thanks to a sturdy silicone strap. An orange flair around the timepiece recalls the famous color of old McLaren cars, while the index #32 references the age in which Bruce died. The kiwi symbol was used on McLaren racing cars and is found here on the top of the dial.

ARPIEM

ARPIEM TRIBUTE TJC – Jim Clark is a name that has an almost mythical effect on motorsport fans. The Scottish F1 world champion was known for driving Lotus cars, and it is the famed green and yellow livery of those machines that serve as inspiration for the Tribute TJC. This elegant color detail is enhanced by an aged brown Italian calf leather strap. Details include the engraving of “Farmer-Racer”, which was engraved on his tombstone and reflected his passion for farming. The watch also has the index #25 to highlight how many career wins he achieved in Formula 1.

ARPIEM

ARPIEM TRIBUTE TJW – The final watch in the Tribute collection is the TJW, a timepiece that pays homage to the team owner John Wyer. An iconic name in endurance racing, Wyer became a giant of motorsport during the sixties with his unforgettable blue and orange cars. This watch recalls that famous colorway and couples it with a black Italian calf leather strap. Details on the timepiece include the index #24 to reflect the Le Mans 24-hour race, which is part of the legend of John Wyer.

ARPIEM

Key Specifications

ARPIEM Tribute watches are not just aesthetically beautiful, they are also feats of design. Featuring a 41mm diameter and 12.5mm thickness, each timepiece features Swiss RONDA Z50 Chrono quartz movement. Elsewhere, ARPIEM used domed crystal sapphire glass to ensure a robust protection. The company says it shaped the secondary dials to remind of manometers used in cars during the sixties.

By triple layering the dial, ARPIEM ensured each Tribute watch has a noticeable dial volume, adding to the obvious quality of the product. For the main hands, the company coated the components with SUPERLUMINOVA BGW9 for a photoluminescent effect. Finally, ARPIEM configured the Tachymeter like a diving watch, with speed at each position of 5 seconds.

Link to Arpiem video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4DuTcG8pMQ

Link to Arpiem Kickstarter campaign: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/617359867/arpiem-tribute-collection-true-vintage-racing-chro?ref=e2jiu8

 



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Monday, October 29, 2018

Top 10 Tools Every Watch Guy Needs

Every watch enthusiast knows that with this hobby, watches are the least of your concern when it comes to storage. Your watch often comes with box and papers. If you’re a strap geek, like me, your drawer (or wherever you store them) will be filled with them. Catalogs, magazines and of course watch books take up more than a shelf in the home library. Not to mention the window displays, vintage travel clocks and whatnots that we often like to collect (hoard?). And if you still have some empty space left in your drawer; here are our Top 10 Tools Every Watch Guy Needs. You might have some of them already. Or perhaps you have better/newer/more advanced ones. Don’t look at this list as something mandatory where you have to tick all of the items. It’s more of a buyer’s guide for watch tools on the market.

Top 10 Watch Tools

Tools

Bergeon 6767 spring bar tool

Let’s get this straight; you need a good spring bar tool. I know that certain sites send you one for free when you buy a strap but let’s be honest, those are hardly quality. Trust me, I’ve been through my fair share of cheap, Chinese tools. They will eventually break. But before they do, they’ll scratch the lugs of your favorite timepiece while you try to change the strap on it. Surely a good tool does not necessarily mean success when it comes to changing a strap without scratching your watch. But it reduces the chance of error. The Bergeon 6767 is an inexpensive (about €15-20) but a quality tool. After all, Bergeon is the brand many watch companies use from small tools (like the 6767) to more complicated machinery. Make sure you order a 6767 with both 1mm and 3mm fork ends and a straight end for push pins.

Tools

Case back knife

Nowadays case backs are usually screw-in. Sometimes they are bolted to the case. It is a safe and effective way to protect the movement. It makes sure your watch won’t experience water leakage. For all the vintage guys with press-in case backs though; you need to get a good, quality case back knife. Remember the last time you brought your vintage chronograph to your watchmaker and he took a swiss army knife-like tool and popped the back. That’s what we’re talking about. A case back knife is actually a very basic swiss army knife with a blade that is designed for back openings. Often on the sides of vintage watches, there’s a small space. You need to put the blade in that space and press it firmly but cautiously until you feel the blade going under the back. Move the knife up and down to pop the back.

Tools

Top Tip: Look for brands like Victorinox or Wenger. They are around €20-25 on the brands’ site or the usual places like Ofrei, Cousins, eBay and so on.

Case back ball

Of course, a case back knife is not going to help you with your vintage diver or basically any other modern timepiece. Contemporary watches don’t have press-in case backs anymore. Usually, it is screw-in or perhaps bolted to the case itself. Obviously, the bolts are no issue if you have a nice set of screw-drivers (more below). However, for the average screw-in case back a case back ball would do the trick. It looks and feels like any other rubber ball. You have to inflate it, so it becomes hard enough not to lose its form even if you squeeze and press it against the case back. Then you just slowly twist it counterclockwise and it will unscrew the back for you. Given that it’s not stuck too much. Then only a professional opener and/or a watchmaker can help. A case back opener ball is around €5.

Tools

Top Tip: if you don’t want to buy a case back ball a squash ball will do the trick just fine.

UV light

A UV light is a fun and useful tool (if you know how to use it). Often referred to as “blacklight” it is a cheap gadget which can come in handy at times. Especially if you are a vintage guy and would like to check the lume on your watch. Lume, let that be tritium, radium or Super-LumiNova, will glow when activated with a UV light.  You can check if the dial still has the original lume. It is also helpful to see how the lume used to shine when the watch was new back in its day. Last but not least, it is a convenient tool to verify the originality of the bank notes you get when selling a watch. All joke aside a UV light is an affordable gizmo that you can take to a GTG and be the center of the attention.

Tools

Demagnetizer

I talked about the topic of magnetization not too long ago in a lengthy post, here. As I said it then, in today’s technical world so many things that surround us on a daily basis can magnetize our watches that we don’t even realize them. For this it I advisable to check if the watch got magnetized and if so, demagnetize it to maintain its condition. Apps like Lepsi is a free and convenient way to check the condition of your timepiece. If it shows that your favorite vintage piece or daily wearer is magnetized don’t worry, there’s a solution. A demagnetizer is super cheap (around €8-10) and readily available. You can pick it up on eBay, Amazon or your local electronics store. Plug it in, place the watch on top of it, press the button and after 10 seconds lift the watch, then release the button. That’s it.

Tools

Loupe

I’m sure this needs no further explanation. A loupe is probably as useful as a UV light or a case back opener. From a single-lens €10 version to a professional €200 piece, you can choose from many variants. Again, places like eBay or Amazon are great to look for them. If you want a professional version check out Bergeon’s site. Loupe’s are also favored gifts watch brands give out during their special events or product presentation. Sometimes you can get one while picking up your new timepiece. Aside from the fact that they are perfect for checking serial numbers on movements or ref numbers of end links, they serve as great photo accessories. Lean the watch against it or use it in the background to produce real professional-looking images. Or simply use them to admire the complexity of the movement in your favorite timepiece.

Tools

Pin Pusher

When I talked about the spring bar tool, I already told you that the Bergeon 6767 comes with a pin pusher head. This is a 5mm long straight pin that you can use the adjust the old-style micro adjuster on your bracelet claps. Old style bracelets, unlike newer screw versions, also use long pins to hold the bracelet pieces together. You can remove or add a link by pushing these pins out. For that, a spring bar tool might not be the best solution as the head length is not enough. You need to get a pin remover either from Bergeon or another quality producer. The key is definitely quality. You can find cheap Chinese tools that either break easily or fall apart eventually. I’m speaking from experience. A Bergon 7230 won’t cost more than €15 and will be perfect for your needs.

Tools

Top Tip: For all of you professional pin removers check out a pin remover plier, like the Bergeon 6819.

Caliper

Something I use often, especially when I write watch reviews, is my digital caliper. You can’t imagine how useful this little tool can come around the house. Not only in connection with watches, though I have to admit I use it for stuff like that the most. To start with, it gives you accurate measures. Often times watch lugs are not 18mm or 20mm but 18.5, 19mm etc. If you want to find the perfect strap for that special piece you need to have the exact measures. Better yet, when you want to have straps custom made the caliper could give you those unusual lug widths. I measure the lug end to lug end of a watch with it. Or the thickness, even the width of the case. While you might think you don’t need these measures, they could improve your sales ad should you wish to sell a watch.

Tools

Time graph

The biggest mistake one can commit is to think that once he/she bought a watch there’s nothing else left to do and it will run forever. We know that this is far from the truth. A watch is a very complex mechanism, that is moving with you strapped to your arm. It runs constantly, takes physical impacts, withstands magnetization and so on. Its performance is crucial for its function, so we need to keep an eye on it. For that, having a time graph around is actually a good idea to keep an eye on the condition of the movement. Whether you use a professional one (€400-500), a cheaper but quality like this Lepsi or an app (we talked about here) does not really matter. As long as you check the accuracy every once in a while, it should be fine.

lepsi watch scope

Good quality spring bars

This topic is another area where many don’t pay attention to details. A spring bar is the last security link between your (often super) expensive timepiece and the concrete floor in your garage. I hear guys telling me that they bought such and such alligator strap for XY hundred euros to match their vintage Gallet or Breitling. When I ask them where they got the spring bars from the answer is often: Oh, I bought them on eBay. Every size from 10mm to 20mm for only €15. – Now, you know where those are coming from and what quality they probably are. Unless your watch has fixed lugs, having quality spring bars is not only advisable but pretty much mandatory. They – hopefully – are less likely to break and secure the watch on your wrist. Check out Cousins or Ofrei for German or Swiss spring bars.

Tools

+ 1 screwdrivers

A set of screwdrivers are likely the tools you need the least. When you do, however, having quality ones is advisable. Many modern timepieces use screws instead of normal spring bars. Contemporary bracelets (sometimes even vintage ones) have screw links instead of push pins. I already talked about bolted case backs above. If a good spring bar tool can save you from scratching up your watch lugs, imagine how handy can a nice set of screws drivers come compared to some low-quality cheap ones. They mess up the screw head and scratch the surface of it. Been there, done that, it’s no fun. Furthermore, you can use them to tighten other objects like sunglasses’ hinges. A nice set is around €200+ however if you take care of them they will serve you well for many years to come.

Tools

Small Print

Not really, but a few things I find important to mention regarding this list. In general, quality is key. You can buy cheap (knock-off) versions of the pricier items on the list but it’s not worth it. They are often poorly made and do more damage than good. Of course, you should spend as much as you can afford. If you will use a screwdriver once a year at best, you don’t need the €400 version. Or any, for that matter. Go to your local watch shop they often do these small repairs or changes for free. If, however, you decide on investing in these tools make sure you know how to use them. Ask your watchmaker to show you the ropes or watch YouTube videos. There’s plenty available online. This will help you avoid damaging your precious timepiece or the tool you just invested in.

Tools

Always execute any repairs or changes at your own risk. I cannot take responsibility for any damages and merely provide a list of tools that I think are useful. Alternatively, you could buy a cheap watch on eBay or at the local flea market and practice on that before you use your newly learned skill on your Patek Philippe 5970. Also, this article is NOT an ad paid by Bergeon, Ofrei or any other brand mentioned. I simply find the above products nicely made and affordably priced, that’s all.  Sites like Ofrei or Cousins are also great and offer a larger variety of tools in most price ranges. And last but not least, the items on the list are in no specific order. Buy what you need and what you will use.

 



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Introducing: The REC Watches RJM

One of the reasons we love vintage watches is that they come with stories attached. The question is, can a modern watch do they same? The folks over in Copenhagen at REC think so. The RJM is the brands first aviation inspired watch and if you look closely enough at the dial you will see a small window of untreated Spitfire aluminium which frames the date at 6 o’clock.  

Now, REC is not the only manufacturer to get excited about implanting components of cars, planes, or boats into watches, but they have developed something of a reputation for doing so over the years (previously launching the REC P51-02 Mustang and the COOPER C3 among others). This new watch is named the RJM in recognition of the Spitfire plane’s late designer Mr. Reginald Joseph Mitchell. There will be three variations of RJM, the 01, 02, and 03. The differences will be in the dial layout and color, while all three maintain the same general aesthetic. The 01 has a black dial with a horizontal line running across it, the 02 (which we have here) has a brown dial, and the 03 will have a green dial with no L and R at three and nine o’clock, respectively.  

In total there will be somewhere around 4,000 watches produced, depending on the amount of aluminum that can be removed from the aircraft. This isn’t the first time parts of a Spitfire have been integrated into a watch – the limited edition Bremont EP120 contained parts of the famous 1942 Spitfire Mk V aircraft in its rotor. The PT879 aircraft in question is currently under restoration in England, and only parts not suitable in the restoration process were used for the dials of this watch. Check out the full story in this video: 



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Sunday, October 28, 2018

Breitling Summit Impression With An Introduction Of The New Models

Earlier this week we joined Breitling on their first ‘Breitling Summit’ in London. Together with several colleagues and partners of the brand, we spent a day going through the Breitling’s changes, its direction and the up and coming collections.

Opening Act

First, a word of welcome when Breitling’s CEO Georges Kern, takes the stage. He explains about the brand and its history and how to guide things in new and more clear directions as Breitling is not only about pilots watches. Structuring the collection into the 4 segments of land, sea air and professional. Each of which comes with a selected group of brand ambassadors or squad members as they call it. Also a quick introduction about new models but more on that later. 

Part of the restructuring of the brand involves changes in the way they work and brand themselves. Several disciplines have been added as this greatly enhances and speeds up the effectiveness in general. Part of the changes is the corporate identity which is all structured and aligned for optimal recognition. Also, a new store concept will be unveiled in the Paris boutique later this year.

After that several partners of the brand take the stage. Fred Mandelbaum, or @watchfred as many will know him by on Instagram, takes the stage and talks about the brand and its heritage. Followed by the head of marketing for Bentley, Christophe Georges, who explains about the partnership they have with Breitling and how successful it has been for the both of them. Here we get a sneak preview of the new Breitling for Bentley.

The new Breitling for Bentley Premier model

Sustainable and the Environment

Interesting to learn is that Breitling clearly takes the environment into consideration. To emphasise this Mark Walker takes the stage. He’s the CEO of Outerknown, a company committed to improving environmental conditions. They create sustainable clothing and the company was co-founded by world-renowned surfer Kelly Slater. He’s part of the Breitling Surfers Squad. This is also when their Breitling Superocean Outerknown is presented.

Another pioneer is Bertrand Piccard who’s father and grandfather explored the earth from the top and bottom. So for him, it was time to explore the earth horizontally by going around it in a ballon. Learning that it still takes fuels to do so they wanted to improve by travelling without using any. With the Solar Impulse 2 they flew around the globe using nothing but solar energy. 

Sea, Land and Air workshops

We continue the rest of the day following several workshops whits short presentations and touch and feel sessions. Starting off with the land session the focus is on the new Premier collection and how it was designed. It’s not based on, yet inspired by their vintage Premier models. Something that is shown with a vast selection of vintage Breitling watches. The full lineup of the new Premier models Influences of the vintage Breitling Premier

Just like the other models in the Breitling collection many models are available with an in-house movement and a third party movement. Although the third party movements are named Breitling calibres, they are based on those of Valjoux and ETA, for example. Where the original Premier watches measure 36 to 38 millimeters, the current versions have been increased to 40 and 42 millimeters. 

Depending on which configuration you prefer, prices for the Premier start at 4.100 Euro for the standard movement on a leather strap. The most expensive version is the chronograph with an in-house movement and metal bracelet which retails for 7.900 Euro. One simple way to tell if the chronograph has in-house movement is when the subdials have a contrasting colour. If the current Breitling chronograph watch comes with a dial in one colour it has a third party movement, as we explained earlier this year in this article.

Breitling Summit Breitling Summit Breitling Summit

From Waste to Product

During the Sea workshop we get a brief history of the dive watches made by Breitling. However, the focus is on the new Breitling Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown. This special version comes with a stainless steel DLC case and blue dial. Most interesting is the strap which is made from Econyl®. This is a material that converts nylon waste that is pulled from oceans into new products such as the straps used for the Outerknown watch. Breitling Summit Breitling Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown

Breitling Summit Breitling Summit

Ending our day at the air workshop where we can see some more modern and vintage watches side-by-side. It’s also where we can have a touch and feel with the new Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Curtiss Warhawk special edition. This model is named after the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk plane which was first used in 1938. When putting this model side-by-side to the vintage Breitling 765 you can see where the inspiration for this watch came from. Breitling Summit Vintage Breitling 765 and Navitimer 8 B01 Curtiss side-by-side Breitling Summit Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Curtiss Warhawk

Breitling Summit Breitling Summit Breitling Summit Reference 637 stopwatch which inspired for the Breitling Navitimer Super 8

During this long and informational day, we did get a better understanding of all the recent changes that have been made at Breitling. Although not all of them are even subtle they do make sense when it concerns the changing markets and future of the brand. Yet I still wonder how passionate Breitling collectors feel about the sudden and swift change of their brand. But as always, you can’t please everybody at the same time with the same thing.

We’ll cover the new models individually and more in-depth at another moment. For now, make sure to head over to the official Breitling website for more general information about the models we’ve seen.

Breitling Summit 2018 in Pictures

Below, an impression of the Breitling Summit 2018 in pictures.



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