DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
We have been fans of H. Moser & Cie ever since they burst into the scene in 2005. One of the products introduced at launch was the Perpetual 1, which featured the revolutionary perpetual calendar with an ultra clean dial design, and many outstanding technical innovations. It won the GPHG Complicated Watches category in 2006. The same movement, the in-house Moser caliber HMC 341, is largely unchanged (how does one improve perfection?) and now appears in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case.
Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, in a white gold case, with the signature Moser fume dial in blue.
Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
The Perpetual Calendar by Moser is perhaps one of the most advanced of all perpetual calendars in the market today. The design was initially done in collaboration with Andreas Strahler, and later brought in-house by the Meylan family who currently own the brand. It had an ultra clean dial, which looks like only has a time and date display with a power reserve to visually balance the date aperture. But on a closer examination, the dial does indicate the month. This is the minimal information needed to be displayed, and the resultant dial is clean and totally uncluttered, much unlike almost all other perpetual calendars in the market, save a few which we discuss in the Competitive Landscape section below. The other essential information required to set the perpetual calendar is the leap year indicator, which is displayed on the case back. Not extraneous information is offered, nor needed for a perpetual calendar. Very neat.
The case, dial and hands
The case of the Endeavour collection of Moser is a rather classical round case with the sides gently curving into the lugs. The case is either forged or more likely stamped. In our review sample, this was in white gold, and it is a rather massive case, with a substantial weight. Perhaps more similar in feel to platinum than white gold.
The case, showing the scalloped sides which accentuates the curves on the case. The crown is embossed with a M logo.
The crown’s function is also of interest. What Moser calls the Double Pull crown, it works like this. Pull the crown and it returns on release, but the watch is put into setting mode. The first pull is to set the date which can be quick set anytime during the day (no black out hours as in the case of classical lever perpetual calendars), and works in both directions. The second pull is for full hand setting of the hour and minutes, and hacks the movement.
The case slide curves beautifully into the lugs. This curve help to make the Moser wear smaller than its dimensions. The curve is also on the sapphire crystal on the rear, making it a nice comfortable fit over the wrist.
The dial is where the magnetic personality of the watch shines. The blue fumé, a signature of Moser (the fumé), is stunningly beautiful. Drop dead gorgeous. The blue is a wonderful hue […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong
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