DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G
This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 20th anniversary of a modern icon: the dynamic Aquanaut. First released in 1997, the Aquanaut remains the sportiest and one of the most accessible Patek Philippe timepieces today. The new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G, released in celebration of the line’s 20th birthday, retains the key design cues and proportions of the standard issue Ref. 5167. What is unique to the anniversary model though is its size, colour and case metal. Here we bring you the details and our thoughts on this novel Aquanaut.
The case, dial, and hands
The case of the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G is crafted from white gold, a first for an Aquanaut timepiece, and measures 42 mm in diameter. This makes the Ref. 5168G the largest in its line. According to the manufacturer, this format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautlius of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo”, a name still used by enthusiasts today. Apart from the material and size, everything else about the case remains unchanged compared to the regular Ref. 5167. The trademark rounded octagonal bezel still comes with the same vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks. Every (men’s) watch from Patek Philippe’s sports lines (the Nautilus and Aquanaut) has a substantial water resistance of up to 120 m. They, including the Ref. 5168G, are therefore perfectly suited for swimming or snorkelling.
Patek Philippe makes some of the best cases in the industry and this is evident in the new Aquanaut. The contrasting satin-brushed and polished finish is a lovely sight.
Perhaps the most distinguishing feature of the new Ref. 5168G is its mesmerising blue PVD-coated dial. Previously only available in black, we must say that the new blue gradient dial, going from lighter in the centre to darker on the outside, is far more spectacular to look at. The embossed structure of the dial sets the stage perfectly for the white gold applied Arabic numerals and 5-minute markers. For enhanced legibility in low- or no-light conditions, the numerals and markers are coated with luminous paint – this was also the case in the Ref. 5167. The hour and minute baton hands of the Ref. 5168G are both also made of white gold and luminous. Introducing a little bit of contrast to the otherwise sporty dial is the refined parfil seconds hand that is beautifully white-lacquered and counterbalanced.
The dial is mesmerising. The colour gradually darkens as it moves away from the centre.
The movement
Housed inside the Ref. 5168G is the 213-part, 29-jewelled Caliber 324 SC; this is the same movement used in the Ref. 5167. With a thickness of only 3.3 mm, the movement is delightfully slim; this specification is also reflected in the watch’s case thickness – only 8.25 mm. The self-winding Caliber 324 SC, which is equipped with the manufacturer’s Gyromax® balance and Spiromax® spring, has a power reserve of 45 hours while operating at a contemporary 4 Hz beat rate. The Ref. 5168G bears the Patek Philippe Seal; this in part means that the movement is precise and […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo
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