Bell & Ross Aviation BR0192-BL-ST
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DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
The curtains have fallen on Baselworld 2017 but the show goes on here at Deployant. It almost felt like it was only yesterday that we presented our Top 5 SIHH picks. Time definitely flies, especially during this period of the year with back to back major watch exhibitions. From what we gauged, Baselworld this year had left the watch community feeling a little underwhelmed, a mood somewhat reflective of the state of the market. That said, there were still numerous novelties that stood out as clear winners during the show. Now that the dust has finally settled, we are here to shine the limelight on these gems. Without further ado, here is my personal top 5:
1. Breguet Classique 7147
This year Breguet introduced a new Classique 7147 to replace the old. While its predecessor came with the iconic Clous de Paris guilloché dial and Roman numerals, the new Classique 7147 is adorned with a luscious grand feu enamel dial (dimpled at 5 o’clock to form the seconds sub-dial) with Breguet numerals. It is foolish to say that one decorative art is superior to another, but I must confess that I prefer the look of the new Classique, for it is the perfect embodiment of purity and elegance. The Classique 7147 is available in rose gold and white gold and comes with matching alligator leather straps and gold pin buckles. The prices for the rose gold and white gold variants are USD21,500 and USD21,000, respectively.
2. Lang & Heyne Georg
The Lang & Heyne Georg is perhaps my favourite novelty out of Baselworld 2017. Those who are acquainted with me know that I adore watches of German aesthetics and design. A rectangular watch is a difficult beast to tame but hats off to Lang & Heyne for pulling it off splendidly. Every element on the dial appears to be well-thought-out, from the pristine white enamel, to the off-centred railroad track minute scale and oversized seconds sub-dial. The view of the Calibre VIII from the case back arguably trumps the front, which says plenty about how gorgeous this movement is. The entire movement is revealed save for the mainspring which remains in barrel and the gear train is exquisitely exposed because the traditional bridges have been supplanted by black polished steel cocks. The already-picturesque movement is then topped off with a diamond endstone for the balance, the proverbial cherry on top of the cake. The Georg is priced at €26,410 for the rose gold model, €27,830 in white gold, and €33,490 in platinum.
3. Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G
Being a complications and dress watch person, I never would’ve thought I’d pick the Aquanaut, out of all the new releases from Patek and the rest of Baselworld. This means that I genuinely feel Patek have got the aesthetics right for its 20th anniversary Aquanaut, the Ref. 5168G. The most noticeable differences on the new Aquanaut are aesthetic, namely the blue gradient dial and strap (its predecessor, the Ref. 5167, has a black dial and strap). To me, the blue of the new Aquanaut suits its aquatic predisposition and is striking enough to distinguish itself […]
The post Armchair Picks: Frank’s Top 5 From Baselworld 2017 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.
Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo
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Now that Baselworld 2017 has come to a close, it’s a good time to reflect on what happened, what didn’t happen and to, once again, give you a peek behind the life, even if it’s only my temporary life, of a watch journalist. Here at Fratellowatches, we value the interaction we have with our readers, […]
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Article from: Fratello Watches, by Michael Stockton
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Panzera is an Australian watch brand that was established in 2009, with models that cover land, sea, and air. They currently offer the Aquamarine 45 diver, the Breuer 44 and 47 dress, and the Flieger 47 pilot. After reaching out to them, they were kind enough to loan us a Panzera Flieger 47 Mechanica for review. So what is a Flieger 47? Well, Fleiger is the German word for pilot and 47 is the case size. Yeah, this is one large aviator watch- lets check it out!
The Dial
Right away when I looked at this I thought it looked familiar. The dial on this watch is very similar to the IWC Big Pilot watches, and that is a good thing, since the Panzera Flieger 47 is over $ 8000 less than an IWC Big Pilot. The handset is fully-lumed (even the red-accented seconds hand), as are the applied hour markers. Powering this watch is non-hacking Miyota 820a with day and date offering a 40 hour power reserve. All the Panzera Flieger 47 models comes in this Matte black finish (on the dial) which makes everything quite legible.
The Case
Made from 316L stainless steel and measuring in at 47mm wide, this a large watch and has a very solid feel. The dial is covered by what Panzera calls their S-Lex crystal, which also shows up on the case back. Much like the IWC Big Pilot, the Panzera Flieger 47 has a onion-style screw down crown. The crown on this is very large and might be ok for some, but on my small wrist it was just too big. Why is that? It was constantly jabbing into my wrist. Water resistance is 5atm (50 meters) which is fine since this watch is meant for the air, not the water. Just don’t do anything other than splash this as you wash your hands, or you’ll not be happy with the results.
The Strap
The Panzera Flieger 47 is offered with 4 strap options. There are two Nato straps, and two leather options. The Nato straps come with either red or grey stripes; the leather straps comes in black croc style or smooth brown. My review model came with the black croc strap. Since this is a very large watch, the straps pretty much drop down both sides of my wrist instead of wrapping around my wrist (again, for a larger wrist this should fit just fine). The strap seemed like a quality bit of kit; the signed buckle is very nicely polished.
Overall Impression
I really like the look of the Panzera Flieger 47 Mechanica. This has the classic aviator look that many watch lovers will appreciate. The quality is very good, nicely polished, and very solid. Having a three hander with day and date, housed inside a well built case, and carrying a look of much higher end watches, this is a very budget friendly watch at $ 585. panzera-style.com.
REVIEW SUMMARY
Tech Specs from Panzera
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Article from: WristWatchReview.com, by Neal Goodacre
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An in-house flyback chronograph for less than $ 4,000 is nothing to scoff at. One of these is now available from Frederique Constant, which introduced a typically classical interpretation just last week. We shared the basics as soon as the watch was launched, and now a few days later we’re back with live images – including one of the new movement – and some more information. But our overall opinion hasn’t changed – this really is a great watch for the money.
First up, let’s take a look at the back of the watch, which offers a view of new FC-760 caliber. This is a movement which took six years to get right, so it deserves a little attention from us (and from you). It’s a flyback, meaning you can reset the chronograph hand without stopping it first, useful for timing laps, for example, or any two events that follow each other instantly. Developing a chronograph is never easy, and it’s something to be applauded for sure, but it’s worth noting despite the dial’s looks (more on that later) this is a two-register chronograph that only times up to 30 minutes.
It’s an automatic chronograph, originally developed by Frederique Constant’s prodigious technical director, Pim Koeslag, and entrusted to Alpina (a sister brand) before making its full debut in an actual FC collection, still with the same modular construction and surprisingly short components list. But this time it is cosmetically enhanced, which is a good thing since it is fully exposed, gold rotor and all, through a sapphire caseback.
The case measures 42mm and features rectangular chronograph pushers, giving it just a touch of vintage charm. The watch will be offered in stainless steel with or without rose gold plating. Several dial options are also available when it comes to color, finish, and dial features. The most classic of the bunch is a silver hobnail dial with thin traditional Roman numerals, blued pomme hands, and a hobnail minute track on the outside.
Just as elegant, but perhaps a little more contemporary in terms of style, are the dark grey and silvered dials with baton indexes and a tachymeter scale on the outside (note: the watches shown here are still prototypes and the tachymeter scale is wrongly labeled a pulsometer on the dial here – look at the graduations though and you’ll see it’s a tachy scale). The combination comes off surprisingly well, and these seem to the most popular of the three. My personal pick is the dark grey version, which offers the most interesting contrast with the rose gold case and feels like the most versatile. But each one stands on its own merits.
On the dial, what looks like a standard three-register chronograph layout isn’t. There’s no need for an hour totalizer, which would usually occupy one of the registers, since this is only a 30-minute chronograph, remember. In addition to that hours totalizer, the remaining two registers display the running seconds at nine o’clock and the date at six o’clock. On top of that, these registers are quite large compared to classic chronograph displays, which increases their legibility, particularly when we’re talking about the date.
In stainless steel, the Flyback Chronograph Manufacture will set you back $ 3,995, while the rose gold plated version will retail for $ 4,295. It’s worth noting the Alpiner 4 Flyback Chronograph, from Alpina, started at $ 4,895 on a leather strap, utilizing the same movement.
For more information, visit Frederique Constant online.
Article from: Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories — HODINKEE, by Arthur Touchot
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Jill Newman
Article from: Watches – Robb Report – Your Global Luxury Resource, by Jill Newman
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RJ Romain Jérôme unveils the Deep Blue Octopus, a marine timepiece inspired by the mysterious cephalopod. We take a look at this new offbeat creation from the Geneva-based manufacturer.
Article from: Monochrome Watches, by Xavier Markl
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We’ve seen some tremendous materials innovation from Hublot in recent years (Magic Gold, colored ceramic, etc.), and they show no signs of stopping this year with pushing the limits of engineering and chemistry. Following its full sapphire case Big Bang of 2016, Hublot rolled out two new colored sapphire watches in Baselworld last week.
While colored synthetic sapphires have been in existence since 1902 (invented by the French chemist Auguste Victor Louis Verneuil), melting sapphire is a complex and unpredictable process. Because its crystallization process is unstable, it is difficult to obtain similarly colored sapphires, even if they are produced simultaneously. Furthermore, bubbles and cracks can appear in the material, making the end result unsuitable for producing something as exacting as a watch case. But the main challenge is in the size.
As I understand it, no colored sapphires exceeding a certain size have been produced. However, Hublot has now gone beyond this threshold with the development of a sophisticated and costly process that enables the successful production of a large, transparent sapphire of perfectly uniform color. Melting iron (Fe) with aluminum oxide, Hublot achieves the result of a colored sapphire that retains all the original properties of the sapphire material which is ultra-scratch resistant, transparent and among the hardest in existence AND the first blue sapphire in the history of watchmaking.
Limited edition of 250 pieces
45mm x 15.7mm blue sapphire case middle, bezel and case back cut from blocks of blue colored sapphire.
Flange, indices, Arabic numerals and hour/minute hands toned to match the color of the sapphire
Hublot also designed a series of 250 pieces in red sapphire by heating aluminum oxide (Al2O3) — the raw material for sapphire — with a transition metal, chromium (Cr), at a temperature of between 2000 and 2050 degrees Celsius.
Limited edition of 250 pieces
45mm x 15.7mm red sapphire case
Inside is Hublot’s manufacture Unico HUB124 movement, with dial side column wheel.
Of course this type of innovation doesn’t come cheap — List price is $ 74,000 Red Sapphire and $ 85,000 Blue Sapphire.
Very cool watches!
© Perpétuelle, 2017. | Serving Up New Luxury and Avant-Garde Timepieces Daily.
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Article from: Perpétuelle, by Editor
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In my opinion, the most compelling new Rolex watch presented by the Swiss brand at Baselworld 2017 was the Rolex Cellini Moonphase. More than just a new interpretation of an existing design, this is not only a totally new watch, but it also includes a new movement and set of complications which haven’t been part of the Rolex portfolio for at least several decades.
The article Rolex Cellini Moonphase 50535 Watch Hands-On first appeared on aBlogtoWatch and was written by Ariel Adams.
Article from: aBlogtoWatch, by Ariel Adams
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