Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Auction Report: Sotheby’s Is Selling The Unique IWC Big Pilot Bradley Cooper Wore To The 2019 Academy Awards

The watch in question is a Big Pilot in solid 5N red gold with a midnight blue dial a la the Petit Prince line of pilots. It’s sort of a cross of this red gold Spitfire and the stainless steel Petit Prince Big Pilot, something that’s not offered in the standard lineup. The caseback is also engraved with a quote from The Little Prince: “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly.” The last bit of the package is a letter that Bradley Cooper will write to the winning bidder, adding a personal touch. All of the proceeds will be donated to the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Foundation, a charity that IWC has long supported.

Bidding for this watch opened online at $16,000 but quickly shot up. As of writing this, there are 10 total bids with the current winning bid sitting at $30,000, already the top end of the $20,000-$30,000 estimate. Bidding will continue online for another week, ending on March 4 at 11:00AM ET.



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Monday, February 25, 2019

Elliot Brown Holton | Hands On Review

Elliot Brown Holton

Elliot Brown Holton

Indestructible. Tough. Reliable. These are some of the words I have seen used to describe the Elliot Brown Holton.  The Holton is a watch that had significant input from a branch of the British Military and is the first British Military issued watch in over ten years, claims Elliot Brown. Now, I say claims, as I do not really have any way to dispute that, at least not without some really heavy leg work. Elliot Brown seems to be a stand-up company though and I have seen many military and law enforcement personnel post their watches and say how tough and rugged they are etc, so I can’t see EB shooting themselves in the foot to try and sell one model of watch. All that said, I am not in the military, law enforcement or any of that, I am, as most of you know, a watch nut, like many of you reading. As always, I will come at this review from that perspective and let’s see how the Holton stacks up.

Elliot Brown Holton

Elliot Brown Holton Specifications:

  • 316L Stainless Case with PVD Treatment and Hardened Bezel
  • 43mm Wide
  • 12mm Thick
  • 52mm Lug to Lug
  • 22mm Lug Width
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Swiss Ronda Calibre 715 Quartz Movement
  • EPDM Rubber Strap (As shown, also available with Nato Strap)
  • Battery Life 3 Years

Price $586 USD (Converted from British Pounds)

https://www.elliotbrownwatches.com/holton/

Elliot Brown Holton

When the Elliot Brown Holton first arrived, the first thing I noticed was that it was very similar to the Tyneham I had reviewed HERE. It is, in fact, similar, as most Elliot Brown watches share similar DNA. The Tyneham is an automatic and lacks a dive bezel and is also a little smaller, but if you look at both side by side, you see they share a very similar if not identical case shape, crown placement and a fitted rubber strap as well. All EB watches are built with toughness in mind though, as I have talked about many times here before with other models. They all have triple sealed crowns and their proprietary metal housing for the movement for superior shock resistance. Elliot Brown tests all their watches rigorously as well.

Elliot Brown Holton

The dial of the Holton is very free of unneeded text, clean, easy to read and non-reflective. These are obviously things that military personnel look for in a watch, an easy to read and very legible dial that does not really stand out or attract attention. The Holton is only available in two colors, the green shown here and a black dial. That is if you are buying from the Elliot Brown Website directly. If you want something of a different color, check out the Page and Cooper website where they have a grey dial and a teal/ocean blue dial and both of these models are sans date, if the date cutout on the regular version bothers you as it does me.

Elliot Brown Holton

The case of the Elliot Brown Holton has a lot going on that is not visible to the naked eye.  Plated in a gunmetal PVD, it has an anti-fingerprint coating applied to it and is very non-reflective. The bezel is hardened to 1200HV Vickers and PVD coated as well, though the website does not state what the insert is made of. Seeing as this a watch that is able to withstand almost anything you can throw at it, I will assume it is not aluminum but also steel that is hardened as well, or at least I am hoping. The fully indexed bezel insert has lume applied to the numbers and hash marks as well, although you will see they do not glow very bright in the dark. The bezel is easy to grip and turn, though I would say it is almost too easy to turn, at least on this example.

Elliot Brown Holton

Here is what I meant by the lume. As you can see, the hands glow very strong and the dial markers are decent but the bezel illumination is poor. I was really hoping that it would be much brighter. Despite not being very bright, the dial and hands do glow for a good few hours before completely fading but the bezel turns dark in a matter of minutes, even in complete darkness.

Elliot Brown Holton

Elliot Brown Holton

A well-known aspect of Elliot Brown watches is the bolted down case back. The company does this to ensure two things; 1. The logo will always be perfectly aligned and it also ensures a perfect seal and tension for the shock absorbing system. Inside the Holton is a Swiss Ronda 715 quartz movement that has an end of life indicator. The battery has enough juice for about 3 years and is housed inside a steel movement holder. Obviously, this watch was designed with abuse in mind. That said, I would have loved to see a 10-year battery life with this watch.

Elliot Brown Holton

The fitted rubber strap is not only attractive but very rigid and tough feeling. This is not one of the floppy silicone or flimsy natural rubber straps, this has a rigidity to it while still allowing a nice fit on the wrist. As is customary with fitted end straps, it will make the watch a longer, putting the overall length at about 53mm. I mention this because some guys are concerned about the watch length more than the width and how it would wear on a smaller wrist. If this strap is not for you, changing out the strap is easy enough. Solid screw bars with a 5-lobe head that screws into lug shoulder are removed with a supplied driver. This strap will also fit any other 22mm lug width Elliot Brown watch if you want to add some green to the one you own. If you want to forgo the rubber altogether, a webbing (Nato style) version is also available. Here it is on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Elliot Brown Holton

Elliot Brown Holton

Since day one, Elliot Brown watches were made with abuse in mind. They have countless videos and pictures on their website of their watches being severely tested in the elements, and coming out still working. This Elliot Brown Holton has been tested even harder to be able to withstand what military personnel will put it through, so I have no doubt it will hold up to fishing, kayaking, hiking or any other outdoor or physical activity we civilians might subject it to. This is obviously not the flashy piece or an all occasion watch. Obviously, this can be an everyday watch, depending on what you do for a living, but this watch also has a purpose. Grab this watch when you would grab a G-Shock and it should hold up just the same. This is that rugged piece that should be with you for a long time.

Elliot Brown Holton



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Watches & Pencils #46 – Double Barrel Movements

I’m not only a fan of the outside of a watch, but the inside and all its moving parts are what makes every watch tick. Fascinated by the countless innovations and improvements for watch movements, I picked out one. The improvement of having more power reserve and the distribution by a double barrel in this case.

double barrel movement by watches and pencils

Double barrel movements feature more than one mainspring and barrel. This way the movement has an increased power reserve and sometimes more efficient distribution. The actual power reserve depends on several things. For example:

  • The complications of the movement (e.g. chronograph).
  • Whether the double barrels are linked in parallel or paired serially.
  • Multiple or a single gear train (more on this, later on).
  • For older watches, the technical condition of the movement (Has it been serviced or not?)
  • The age of the watch. Newer watches have technical improvements like high-tech materials to increase the power reserve.

Even More Barrels

While you might think that 2 barrels is the max, you’re wrong. Some movements house up to 4 barrels! Blancpain has several movements that feature more than 2 barrels. For example, the Blancpain movement with reference number 1315 has 3 barrels. King of the hill is Vacheron Constantin with its Patrimony Traditionnelle Tourbillon (reference 89000/000R-9655). It features 2 stacks of 2 barrels and has a power reserve of 14 days!



Dual Time Resonance

Two barrels per movement and a longer power reserve on the Dual Time Resonance by Armin Strom (ref. ARF17)

Need Or Nice-To-Have?

Watches with a lot of complications need more power. Therefore a double barrel is more like a necessity than a nice-to-have. In these cases, one barrel can serve the time indication, while the other barrel serves the chronograph and/or other complications. Besides this, more power reserve was also useful in times when watches were purely functional. As an example, I take the first Panerai watches. Since they were created for (military) frogmen, it was best to include as much power reserve as possible. This way, the winding interval was stretched and the chance of water coming into the watch was kept to a minimum. Nowadays, most of the watches with double barrels serve our laziness.



The MSH01 has a power reserve of five days

Two Barrels on the Meistersinger Caliber MSH01

One BIG Barrel or more than one?

Instead of creating an extra barrel some brands also increase the power reserve by increasing the size of the barrel and mainspring. There are some differences compared to multiple barrels. Besides the accuracy, it also has a lot to do with the available space in the movement. With some movements, you can’t just keep increasing the size of the barrel. With two barrels they are more flexible in the placement of the barrels.



Oris Caliber 111 with one massive barrel, good for 10 days of power reserve

Names And Branding

While ‘double barrel movement’ is the term mostly used, some brands use a unique name to indicate the double barrel concept. To name some:

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre: Duomètre or ‘Dual Wing’
  • Favre-Leuba: Twin-power calibre 253
  • Multiple brands: twin barrel


JLC Duomètre Quantième Lunaire (ref. 1701195081)

Aesthetics

The double barrel movement might have increased power reserve as primary goal there is another interesting benefit to this concept. For me as a designer, a double barrel also can create more balance in the overall design of a movement. Most of the double barrel movements are more symmetric and therefore look nicer in my opinion.

Verdict

Barrels are interesting parts of the movement. Together with the mainspring, they provide the essence: energy. What makes them especially interesting is fact that there are many variations. What do you like or dislike about a double barrel movement? Maybe you own a double barrel movement? We’d like to hear from you.

Czapek Quai des Bergues



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Photo Report: The Winter 2019 HODINKEE Meet-Up In New York City

In celebration of our shared love of watches, we hosted a get-together for you, our readers, earlier this week in Downtown New York City. As you’ll see in the photos below, the Ainsworth was packed with watch nerds enjoying cocktails and cold beer while talking, and sharing, an incredible array of watches – from a Swatch Sistem51 to a Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Thank you to all of you who joined us; and for those who couldn’t make it – stay tuned, we’ll be hosting more of these meet-ups in the near future. Until then, enjoy these photos of the evening.



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Sunday, February 24, 2019

This Week in Watches – February 24, 2019

Welcome to This Week in Watches for February 24, 2019.  I’ve just come back from roughly a week in Florida and it’s been a lot of Rolex for 7 days on the wrists of my fellow Floridians.  Then there was a gent with a Louis Vuitton backpack (really L) and a solid AP Royal Oak Jumbo (really J).  Hopping aboard the plane, I picked up a magazine and came across a very expensive advertisement from Chanel that mentioned that a new J12 is headed our way at Basel in less than a month.  So, it is still the show for some…. Whatever the case, let’s talk about some different watches this week.

Tudor Hints at Something

This is now a couple weeks old, but Tudor dropped a photo on Instagram that shows what looks like a diver with triangular indices.  If you’re a student of the Tudor game, you’d likely come to the conclusion that this will be Submariner related as the brand started marketing their version of the watch 50 years ago.  We honestly don’t know details of what’s coming, but Tudor has a fairly crowded dive watch lineup with the Pelagos and umpteen versions of the Black Bay.  Perhaps we’ll get something using the slimmer “Fifty Eight” case in the vein of a blue Snowflake, but with a Cyclops this time.  Perhaps we will see the return of crown guards.  Who knows, but Tudor has been featuring a prototype 90’s Sub quite a bit on its Instagram feed with a burgundy bezel.  Whatever it is, we’ll be there watching the press release, so stay tuned.

Longines Updates the HydroConquest 

Recently, Longines held an event in Singapore of all places to release its updated HydroConquest lineup.  The popular, and very affordable, mechanical watches come in chronograph or three hand with date versions.  In black, grey, or blue, the pieces come on bracelet or a rubber strap.  Personally, I like the look of the 43mm grey three-hander, which retails for an attractive 1,390 Euros.

Interestingly, the chrono (also water resistant to 300m) comes in at 41mm and is priced at 2,110 Euros.  The watches appear to be available now and you can check out more info on the Longines site.

Omega Trésor In Red & White With Diamonds

Omega has announced a new bold red and white Trésor for women.  I’ll admit that I don’t follow women’s watches so heavily, but this one is really a looker.  It’s 36mm in stainless steel and features a lacquered red and white dial with matching red strap.  The case is lined with 38 diamonds and there’s one more set into the crown.  Of note, that crown contains 5 interwoven Omega logos, which looks really nice.  Inside, and I’d call this a bit of a downer, is a quartz movement.  The watch retails for 4,100 Euros and is already on the Omega site.



IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000 (photo courtesy of Time & Tide)

A Rare Porsche Design IWC at Auction for a Good Cause 

Our friends at Time & Tide in Australia have been asked to help auction off a rare, and beautifully original, IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000 diver reference 3504 for charity.  The watch is listed on eBay and proceeds will go to MND Victoria to help fight Motor Neurone Disease.  The IWC in question is an icon and still look fantastic today.  It was IWC’s first titanium watch and is water resistant down to a namesake-appropriate 2000 meters.  The watch will be on offer for bidding until noon time Australian Standard Time on March 2nd and was up to 8,400 AUD at last viewing.  Head here for the listing and to Time & Tide for more details on the watch.

Bradley Cooper and one-off IWC at the Oscars for Charity 

In more charitable news related to an IWC, IWC spokesperson and actor Bradley Cooper will sport a one-off blue-dialed, 18K gold Big Pilot.  The watch will later be auctioned by Sotheby’s with all of the proceeds going to the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation – a foundation which helps visually impaired children read drawings.  For more information on bidding (which ends on March 4th), head here to Sotheby’s – the watch is up to $20,000 at time of publishing.

Glashütte Original Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date 2019 Version

Glashütte Original is back with a new color this year for its lovely Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date.  We’ve seen a variety of colors over the last several years and this year we are treated to fiery orange.  The orange comes as a result of a galvanic treatment while the dial receives embossing courtesy of tooling and a 60-ton press that were in use during the 1960’s.  Both stainless watches use the brand’s in-house automatic movements and come in 39mm (3-hander) and 42mm (date).  I’m a real sucker for the Sixties – especially sans date – and I am sure these are stunning in person.  The three-hand will retail for 6,300 Euros and the Date for 7,800 Euros.  These are also limited in nature as they’re only available in 2019.  More on the annual edition can be found here.

New H.Moser Watches in Miami 

Watches and Wonders took place a couple weeks back in Miami and if you don’t know about the show, it takes place in the city’s design district where many brands have boutiques.  Brands released some special pieces during the event and one such brand was H.Moser.  The watches are part of their “All-Terrain” lineup and, amazingly, are water resistant down to 120 meters.  It’s amazing because one watch is the Pioneer Tourbillon and the other is the Pioneeer Centre Seconds.  Both feature a dark blue fume dial, domed sapphire crystal, case made of 5N gold and black DLC-titanium, and a perofrated rubber strap.  Heck, the press release even mentions that these would be great watches to use while at the bbq!  The Tourbillon is a limited edition of 50 pieces and comes in at 42.8mm while the Centre Seconds is not limited and has the same diameter.  While 40mm might come in as more of my speed, these are awfully pretty in any size.  Head here for more.

Carl Suchy & Söhne 

I know very little about Carl Suchy, but this is another brand I will check out at Basel next month.  Apparently, Carl Suchy was a high-end brand founded in Austria in 1822, but the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire led to its demise in 1918.  Prior to this, they supplied the royal court.  Fast forward to 2017 and the brand was revived.  Since that time, they’ve produced a limited number of uniquely styled dress watches and were even nominated for a GPHG design award.  All of the company’s watches appear to be equipped with the ultra-thin VMF 5401 automatic.  Interestingly, all the pieces have a unique dial design that is vertically bisected and each half contains lines that are perpendicular to those found on the corresponding half.  Today, we get a preview of the Waltz No.1 18ct Gold which will be made in a series of 5 watches.  Like I said, we’ll go hands on with these next month – they look different from most dress watches and I’d call that a good thing.  For more info, on the brand, head to their official site.

Nomos Wins a Design Award…Again 

Does Nomos get tired of winning design awards?  Isn’t it boring for them?  I’m just kidding of course, but it is pretty amazing that the brand has won an iF Design Award four years in a row.  So, congrats!  This year, the brand picked up its award in Hamburg for its Tangente Neomatik 41 Update.  This is the piece that had everyone talking last year due to its novel “edge of the dial” date notification system.  It’s a unique watch that certainly deserves praise.  You can see one of the 3,200 Euro Update on the Nomos site.

Well, folks, that’s all for This Week in Watches.  We’ll see you again next week – wish me a speedy recovery from my jet lag!

 

 



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Weekend Round-Up: A Yacht Influencer, A Bicycle-Riding Thief, And The Legendary Karl Lagerfeld

Each week our editors gather their favorite finds from around the internet and recommend them to you right here. These are not articles about watches, but rather outstanding examples of journalism and storytelling covering topics from fashion and art to technology and travel. So go ahead, pour yourself a cup of coffee, put your feet up, and settle in.



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Saturday, February 23, 2019

About the Ianos Avyssos diver’s watch

It was during Baselworld 2018 that Robert-Jan and myself met with Jacob Hatzidimitriou. Jacob had contacted us and would like to show us his Ianos Avyssos diver’s watch that he intended to introduce. Something which is asked us more often and, because the majority of these intentions have to be addressed as ‘well-meant but not pertinent necessary’, which we did not have very high expectations of.

These expectations, however, changed immediately after Jacob handed us a prototype of his watch.

The Ianos Avyssos diver’s watch and its relation to Symian sponge divers finding the Antikythera mechanism

And that was just the watch. With a family heritage in sponge diving, to Jacob, it’s very important that the story behind his watch project will be told as well. This is the story by which he was inspired and to which he dedicates the watch. And I have to admit, it’s an interesting story indeed. A story about ancient Greek and brave sponge divers, before scuba diving was even invented.



Ianos Avyssos

The Ianos Avyssos on my wrist

Ianos

Let’s start with the brand name Ianos. Ianos is taken from the God Janus, who was a Roman God of beginnings and ends, gates, doorways, passages, transitions, duality, and time. So let’s say, pretty much everything. Beginnings and time might be the most important for Ianos. By the way, January – the beginning of the year – was named after Janus as well.

I have to ask Jacob, being Greek (which you would have guessed from his family name with four I’s in it), why he chooses a Roman God to name his brand after and not a Greek one. Janus is associated with the Etruscan God Culsans who is a God of beginnings and passages as well, however, he has no Greek equivalent. Although in mythology Janus is believed to come from Thessaloniki in Greece, he then moved to Latium in Central-Italy, where he founded the Roman law- and agricultural systems, and money.

Ianos Avyssos

Avyssos

So far the inspiration for the Ianos brand name. Now, where does the model name Avyssos come from? Avyssos derives from the Greek ἄβυσσος, meaning one who inhabits the abyss. In the Greek version of the Hebrew Bible, the Septuagint, the abyss represents both the original unfinished creation and the Great Deep of the primordial waters of creation. So to say, the primal chaos before creation. A more modern-day explanation of abyss, however, is immeasurable deep waters. This is more adequate for a diver’s watch and will have been Jacob’s inspiration for his first watch’ model name.

Design elements

Ianos Avyssos

Running indicator

On to the inspiration for the design elements of the Ianos Avyssos, and now getting to the Greek sponge divers. A detail which immediately attracts attention is the wheel-formed dial opening at 6 o’clock. I learned from Jacob that the form of this opening in the dial was taken from the main gear of the Antikythera mechanism. The Antikythera mechanism is the oldest computer found by Greek sponge divers, just off the Greek island of Antikythera approximately 70 years BC. This opening in the dial happens to be not just an aesthetical offering. It’s the indication for the wearer of the watch to see if it’s running or not. A quite important feature, which even is mentioned as an essential one in the ISO 6425 Dive Watch Standard.

Ianos Avyssos

Index markers

On second glance you’ll mention the shape of the index markers. They’re not circular, nor square or stick markers. The shape of the Avyssos index markers is taken from the stones which sponge divers from the Greek island of Symi use as a weight to get to greater deeps as quickly as possible. They’re known as kampanelopetra (petra meaning stone in Greek) and have been used for millennia.

Ianos Avyssos

Dial and hands

There will be three dial variations of the Ianos Avyssos. They all have beautiful radial faded dials and are produced in a well-known sandwich construction. The straight hands fit well to this dial, and the minute and hour hand have been adequately made in different colors.

Some words on the Antikythera mechanism

As mentioned above the shape of the remarkable running indicator of the Ianos Avyssos was taken from the Antikythera mechanism. The Antikythera mechanism was retrieved from the Antikythera shipwreck off Point Glyphadia on the Greek island of Antikythera in 1901. The wreck had been found in April 1900 by a group of Greek sponge divers who retrieved numerous large artifacts. On 17 May 1902, archaeologist Valerios Stais found that one of the pieces of rock had a gear wheel embedded in it. He initially believed that it was an astronomical clock, but most considered the device to be too complex to have been constructed during the same period as the other pieces that had been discovered.



Antikythera mechanism

The Antikythera mechanism

Investigations into the object were dropped until British science historian and Yale University professor Derek J. de Solla Price became interested in it in 1951. It was only after x-ray and gamma-ray images that in 1974 Price was able to publish a 70-page report on the construction and functionality of the mechanism. It pointed out to be a device capable of indicating exactly how the sky would look for decades to come – the position of the moon and sun, lunar phases and even eclipses – but also calculated the timing of several panhellenic athletic games, including the ancient Olympic games.

Hublot's take on the Anthikythera mechanism

After the importance of the Antikythera mechanism became known it has been the inspiration for many expeditions in order to recover more of its parts and secrets. As well, many models and recreations of the mechanism have been made. The most playful being this one made out of LEGO, and the most well known to us watch aficionados has to be the one made by Hublot. More official information on the Antikythera mechanism can be found at the Antikythera Research Project website, or through Wikipedia. And an explaining video can be found here on YouTube.

The modern part of the Ianos Avyssos

Besides all the inspiration from ancient Gods and Greek sponge-diver history, I’m glad there’s an important modern design part to the Ianos Avyssos as well. Don’t get me wrong, I can fully understand the importance of a good story backing up a watch. However, with the SIHH – where there’s a proud story behind every watch – still fresh in my memory, I rather like to buy a good watch than a good story. The Ianos Avyssos is exactly that, a good watch. A watch which by itself attracts on first sight – as explained in the first paragraph of this article.

Ianos Avyssos

What is it that makes the Ianos Avyssos attract so strongly? For me, it’s very much the shape of the casing. The case has been designed to complement the wrist’s curvature and has sloped edges. It makes the watch look light and almost organic. And that’s exactly how it feels when wearing it as well, as if it belongs to your wrist. It seems it just should be there.

An ingeniously designed casing

Additionally, the case back has been re-thought in a modern context and has been designed with a deep longitudinal groove running through it. Purpose of this groove is housing a NATO-type strap, it will sit in the mentioned groove and thus not add to the wearing height of the watch on your wrist. Not only does the watch wear very comfortable like this, but it also enables a quick strap change as well. Finally, using this kind of strap construction makes for safety. When caused by abusive force one of the strap push-pins would break, the watch will stay strapped to your wrist by the other.

Ianos Avyssos

Under the strap, a circular glass-covered opening can be found. It will show you the hand-winding Pesseux 7001 mechanical movement. It might not seem an obvious choice to use a hand-winding movement in a diving watch. But this simple and efficient caliber very much equals the way sponge divers use simple and efficient, tested and dependable, tools like a rope and a rock. As well, a hand winding movement brings the wearer closer to his watch. Every day he or she has an opportunity to touch and re-appreciate it.



Ianos Avyssos

The small round mineral glass revealing the hand-winding Pesseux 7001 movement

In order to enhance the feeling of simplicity and functionality even further, the uni-directional rotating bezel and the screw-down crown both have been given bolt-like, designs.

Specifications, price, and availability

I’ll finish this review listing some technical details, and information on price and availability. One shouldn’t be fooled here by numbers though. In its form, the Ianos Avyssos is very different from any other watch you know, and thus very difficult to compare.

Case diameter: 44 mm, material 316L stainless steel

Bezel: Uni-directional rotating, 120 clicks

Crown: Stainless steel, screw-down type

Glass: Domed sapphire, anti-reflective coated

Strap: Suede leather, PVC lined, NATO-type

Ianos Avyssos

Halfway March of this year (2019) a Kickstarter campaign will be opened to make the Ianos Avyssos available. The watch will be presented in two case variations, bare and PVD-coated stainless steel. There will be three dial variations. Prices will vary from CHF 725,= to CHF 760,=, both excluding VAT. First watches are expected to be delivered in August this year (2019).

Additional information can be found at www.ianoswatches.com which is finished and online now.



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