Friday, December 28, 2018

The Craziest Watch Of 2018 – Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose Gold 116595RBOW

The Rolex Daytona Rainbow in Everose gold (reference 116595RBOW) is one of those watches that leaves me as puzzled today as it did when it was introduced last March. Although a lot of the attention of this year’s Rolex releases went to their GMT Pepsi, the Deepsea Sea-Dweller and GMT bi-colour models, their extravagant Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW was talked about a lot as well.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW

In 2012, Rolex introduced their Daytona Rainbow in yellow gold (116598RBOW) and white gold (116599RBOW). Extremely rare pieces that demonstrated the skills of Rolex craftsmanship for setting stones in watches. These watches are hardly seen, as they are only produced in very limited numbers. These watches are often copied, meaning a gold Daytona is being customized with after-market diamond setting, but you don’t even have to be an expert to see that they don’t match the original Rainbow. At all.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW

Where the first Daytona Rainbow in yellow gold and white gold had diamond set hour markers, this new version in Rolex’ own rose gold alloy called Everose has 11 baguette-cut, rainbow-coloured sapphires as hour markers. These hour markers colour-match the 36 baguette-cut sapphires as they have the same rainbow gradation. The 40mm Everose gold case has also been set with precious stones, as you’ll find it adorned with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the lugs and crown guard. Part of the difficulty producing these watches is matching the coloured stones.

With a retail price of $96,900USD, you would think that buying a Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose 116595RBOW is just a matter of shilling out the money. It is not. As said above, the production is limited and you probably need to be very well connected to a large Rolex AD or Rolex themselves in order to be able to purchase one.

If you think you can alternatively go for a pre-owned yellow or white gold version from previous years, you have another thing coming. Recently, the yellow gold Rolex Daytona Rainbow reference 116598RBOW was auctioned by Phillips in New York for a whopping $212,500USD (original retail price was $89,100USD). On the pre-owned market, like on Chrono24, the prices for an all original Rainbow in yellow gold are similar.

It is not the first time that Rolex turns the Daytona into something wild. Although the use of gold and diamonds can be seen often in Rolex’s history, in 2004 they introduced the Daytona reference 116598 SACO, also known as the Daytona Leopard. A leopard print dial with diamond hour markers and a bezel set with 36 baguette-cut yellow sapphires showed Rolex’ audacity.

The strap also had a leopard print to match the dial, and the gold end-pieces were set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The Rolex Daytona Leopard reference 116598SACO can still be found on the pre-owned market and at auctions from time to time, and prices are a bit north of $50.000USD.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow 116595 RBOW

Back to the Daytona Rainbow in Everose gold. Under the hood, this Daytona is the same as any other modern Daytona reference, so powered by the Rolex caliber 4130 movement. This movement has been entirely designed, developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex. It features a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism for precise chronograph action. It has all relevant and modern Rolex innovations on board, like the Paramagnetic (alloy) Parachrom hairspring, that ensures stability when it comes to temperature changes and – due to its special allow – is not sensitive to magnetic fields. On top, the movement is guaranteed to be accurate up to -2/+2 seconds a day on average and has a power reserve of 72 hours. Rolex has never been very ‘show off’ by putting their movements up for display using a sapphire caseback, so also on this Daytona Rainbow you’ll find a solid (Everose) gold one.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose

An Everose gold case and bracelet alone isn’t for everyone, let alone a bezel and dial set with baguette-cut sapphires in a Rainbow colour-scheme. And on top, diamond set lugs and crown guards. Now, you can find this ugly or at least ‘not your style’, but what puzzled me is the attraction this watch has on the market and perhaps the community of Rolex collectors. When I put it on my wrist in Basel, it definitely had some attraction for me. Not only because of the Everose gold, but the sapphires in rainbow colours and the pink gold subdials give a nice contrast to the black lacquered dial. The only things I am not fond of are the diamond set lugs and crown guard,  to be honest.

Everything is executed to perfection, as it is always the case with Rolex. I am not a Rolex collector, but have (and have had) my fair share of their models and it is actually the single brand that never failed on me when it comes to their products. Rolex ensures they maintain the highest standards when it comes to the use of materials, but also for the selection of their precious stones and the setting of them.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Everose

Whether it is the combination of colours, the use of precious materials or the fact that its production is so incredibly low, these Rolex Daytona Rainbow watches are high in demand, proven by the prices that people are willing to pay for them.  The low production might be an indicator for speculators that this watch might even go crazier in the future. Although more watches released this year doubled in price for various reasons (think GMT Pepsi for example), the increase from its RRP of  $96,600USD to approx. $245.000USD it fetched on the Phillips auction in Geneva last November, is very impressive, to say the least.

To me, this Rolex Daytona Rainbow ref 116595RBOW is the craziest watch of 2018 I’ve come across. Despite watches from other brands that are perhaps even more extravagant or more complicated, it just puzzles me how a very flamboyant execution of a Rolex Daytona can set so many hearts on fire and at the same time, can be so atrocious to others. That, aside from how the market “financially” responds to an important piece like this, is what interests me most about this Daytona Rainbow.

More information, visit the special page for the Rolex Daytona Rainbow here.



from Best Watches For Men http://bit.ly/2BIg4PQ

Year In Review: The Top 25 Most Popular HODINKEE Posts Of 2018

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We have a handful of annual traditions here at HODINKEE, and one of them is capping off the year with a list of the 25 most popular stories from the last three-hundred-and-sixty-something days. To say we had a lot to sort through this year would be a massive understatement: we published over 950 stories in 2018, an all-time high for HODINKEE, covering everything from introducing new releases and analyzing auction results to in-depth reviews and collector profiles.

When we say that these are the “most popular” we mean just that – these are the 25 stories that were read the most by you this year. Some are going to seem obvious, while others might surprise you. Either way, this should give you more than enough reading (and watching) to keep you busy as we finish up 2018 and enter 2019.

Thank you to everyone reading this for a fantastic year and we can’t wait to share next year with you too!

25. Photo Report: Fashion And Watches At SIHH 2018

At SIHH it’s easy to get stuck in a pattern of looking exclusively into glass vitrines and at the wrists of passers-by. However, look up and you’ll notice that in addition to a lot of great watches there are some pretty stylish people walking around too. Here we highlighted a few of our favorite watch/look combos.

Check out the full story here.

24. A Week On The Wrist: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000 Full Metal

This watch quickly earned the nickname “the full gold G-Shock” in most circle and for good reason: it’s a big gold G-Shock. Stephen, typically one for more understated expressions, both sartorial and horological, strapped this one on for a week and fell in love with it. Sometimes the heart just wants what it wants, logic be damned.

Watch the video and read the full story here.

23. In-Depth: Tony Fadell & Benoît Mintiens Discuss The Ressence Type 2 e-Crown Concept

It’s rare that genuinely new technology enters the world of mechanical watches, but the e-Crown from Ressence is just that. Think of it like a robotic watch winder that lives inside your watch, keeping it on time and ready to go, even when the power reserve winds down. Here we got an inside look at how it came to be from the men who invented it.

Watch the video and read the full story here.

22. Personalities: Jean-Claude Biver And The Making Of The Modern Watch Industry

It is impossible to understand the modern watch industry without understanding Jean-Claude Biver. When people zigged, he zagged, and he’s managed to be a monumental force in this business for 40 years. Joe’s incredible story is the definitive profile of the watch industry’s most definitive personality.

Read the full story here.

21. The Value Proposition: The Casio AE1200WH-1A World Timer, At Less Than One Dollar Per Time Zone

The headline says it all, really. This is about as “value proposition” as a watch can get – for less than the price of a dinner out in New York City you can have a fun, cool looking watch that can serve as an able companion no matter where your travels may take you. And with all that money you save, maybe you can spring for that flight upgrade too.

Read the full story here.

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20. Talking Watches With Roger Smith

When one of the world’s two or three finest watchmakers (maybe the finest watchmaker) agreed to come by HODINKEE HQ with his own personal collection of watches, we knew we were in for a treat. There’s nothing more to say here – just watch the video. You won’t regret it.

Watch the video and read the full story here.

19. Review: The Panerai Luminor Due 38

“Smaller” and “slimmer” might not be words you typically associate with Panerai, but the new Luminor Due collection embraces both ideas to great effect. The result is a set of watches that feel very much like classic Panerai models (think sandwich dials and crown locks) but in more manageable silhouettes for those who have small wrists or wear a lot of suits. 

Read the full story here.

18. In-Depth: Diving With The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M

There might have been flashier releases this year, but the latest iteration of Omega’s flagship dive watch is a serious update with new tech and a more streamlined style. Jason decided to take it out into the ocean for a proper dive and there’s good news: this modern classic is much more than a desk diver. 

Read the full story here.

17. Found: A $10 Gilt Dial Rolex Submariner Reference 5512

This is what we all hope for: finding a beautiful gilt-dial Sub in a discount bin at a thrift shop. It’s certainly not common, but it does seem to happen at least once or twice a year. If nothing else, here’s something fun to daydream about in front of the fire this winter.

Read the full story here.

16. Watch Spotting: Ellen DeGeneres Wearing A Paul Newman Daytona On Comedians In Cars Getting Coffee

By this point it’s no secret that Ellen DeGeneres is one serious watch collector. However, it was still exciting to see her rocking a seriously cool ref. 6241 Paul Newman Daytona on a new episode of Jerry Seinfeld’s Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee.

Read the full story here.

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15. Introducing: The Leica L1 And L2 Watches

We were one of very few publications invited to Leica’s headquarters in June for the launch of their very own watch collection. The L1 and L2 translate Leica’s aesthetic and pursuit of quality from the classic M cameras to something you can wear on your wrist. They definitely sparked some lively conversations too and are an early taste of where Leica hopes to go with this. 

Read the full story here.

14. Three On Three: Comparing Entry-Level, In-House Automatics From Grand Seiko, Omega, And Rolex

Despite being published less than three weeks ago, this incredible in-depth piece catapulted into the top 15 stories of the year without breaking a sweat. Jack, James, and Jon look at what three of the most important large-scale watch manufactures on the planet are offering at the “entry level,” with an eye toward what sets each apart from the pack.

Watch the video and read the full story here.

13. Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SPB077 And SPB079

Wait, an extremely popular story about an awesome Seiko dive watch? Yeah, we’re not surprised either. These two new Prospex divers have a slightly more modern look to them, with sleek bezels and bold geometric hands. That they’re both priced right around $1,000 only makes them all the more appealing.

Read the full story here.

12. Talking Watches With Mario Andretti

Every episode of Talking Watches is special in its own way, but this one was something different altogether. Jon sat down with Mario and talked about everything from mid-century chronographs to what is likely the most impressive professional driving career of all time. Even if you’ve seen it before, watch this one again: it’s worth it, we promise.

Watch the video and read the full story here.

11. Hands-On: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Now With White And Black Dials

Dial color updates are usually boring news – but not these updates. Rolex’s most basic three-hand watch, the Oyster Perpetual, got a major refresh this year with new black and white dial options that are flat-out stunning. Now the only real question left is which case size you want to go for…

Read the full story here.

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10. A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Santos

When you’ve got a brand with a particularly strong identity it can be hard to invent new things without veering too far off course. With the latest iteration of the Santos though, Cartier nailed it. The watch is everything you want a Santos to be, but with new lines, some new bracelet technology, and an in-house caliber too.

Read the full review and watch the video here.

9. A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay GMT

As far as in-depth reviews go, this is about as good as it gets. James took Tudor’s new travel watch on a little tour of California, enjoying a little adventure and snapping some great photos along the way. Spoiler alert: this isn’t the only place on this list that you’ll be seeing this watch either.

Read the full story and watch the video here.

8. Editors’ Picks: Best New Watches Under $1,000

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: A great watch does not have to cost a lot of money. If you need more proof than just the Casio World Timer above, we’ve got you covered here with a round-up of five awesome new watches that come with no more than a three-figure price tag. 

Read the full story here.

7. A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel

With all the attention that gets directed toward the GMT-Master and Daytona these days, it’s easy to forget that the steel Sky-Dweller is one of the hardest-to-find watches on the planet right now. Jack’s outstanding review gives you insight into the watch itself and why it’s just so darn desirable.

Read the full story here.

6. A Week On The Wrist: The Apple Watch Series 4

Even if you’re not a “smartwatch person” you need to pay attention to the Apple Watch. It’s not only the best-selling watch on the planet but also one that offers insight into what a watch can be and how modern technology can interact with a product we typically associate with tradition and old-school ways of doing things.

Read the full story and watch the video review here.

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5. The Value Proposition: The Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch

Everyone reading this likely knows and loves the Seiko SKX007, the affordable dive watch that nearly every watch lover owns at some point in his or her collecting journey. This watch is that watch’s little brother, having all the same style and functionality in a smaller package. Stephen didn’t know this even existed until earlier this year, and when he found out he knew he had to get one ASAP.

Read the full story here.

4. Editors’ Picks: The Five Best Starter Watches

There are lots of ways to get into watch collecting. Some people dive right into the deep end, while others like to dip a toe first. Here we found five brand new watches from Baselworld that would help that latter group get their bearings while still offering them something that they could love for the long haul.

Read the full story here.

3. Introducing: The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi In Stainless Steel Ref. 126710 BLRO

You had to know this was coming, right? The impossible-to-get steel GMT-Master is probably the single hottest watch of the year and for good reason. The moment news broke at Baselworld the watch community went crazy – the steel Pepsi GMT was officially back and it came with new technology and a killer Jubilee bracelet. What’s not to love about this one?

Read the full story here.

2. Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Okay, if the Pepsi GMT-Master was the hottest watch of Baselworld 2018, the second hottest watch of Baselworld 2018 was probably the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. The latest Tudor diver is basically a vintage watch in size and style, but with an in-house Tudor movement and modern build quality. It’s the best of both worlds and one of the highest value-for-money watches you can buy today.

Read the full story here.

1. Editors’ Picks: The Best Everyday Watches Of Baselworld 2018

Here it is, people: the story you all read the most in 2018. Honestly, this isn’t a huge surprise considering the excellent watches that were released at this year’s big show and the focus on wearable, accessible watches. Here’s to hoping that we have a lot more reasons to do round-ups like this in 2019.

Read the full story here.



from Best Watches For Men http://bit.ly/2QXyfvs

Thursday, December 27, 2018

#TBT Citizen Jet Auto Dater – A Dress Watch with a Unique 1960’s Movement

Today on #TBT, we’ll take a brief look at what I think is an unheralded classic in the Citizen Jet Auto Dater. Most would probably take one look at this watch and dismiss it as yet another anonymous Japanese dress watch in the same way that most ignore ubiquitous “three hands and a date watches” from Swiss brands. But a look inside and a closer examination of the details reveal that there’s a bit more to this Citizen than meets the eye. This story isn’t completely about a movement, but it’s certainly the star of the show.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

I’ve admitted in past articles that I’m a sucker for falling into rabbit holes when searching for watches. Whether it’s on eBay or a certain Japanese auction site, these companies have a way of suggesting “other items you may like” at the bottom of listings. And so it was, roughly a year ago, that I was trawling through ads for vintage Citizen divers when various, larger Citizen dress watches began popping up on the page as a come-on. I decided to click on several of these ads and that led to even more ads – forget a rabbit hole…this was more like a wormhole and I was deep within it! But finally, I stumbled upon the Citizen Jet Auto Dater you see here.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

You might ask, and you’d be perfectly right to do so, how I picked this Citizen Jet Auto Dater amongst what must literally be thousands of different Citizen (and Seiko for that matter) vintage dress watches. Well, I had been doing some side research on Citizen and I stumbled across what is commonly seen as the brand’s first dive watch, the Jet Autodater 120m. Now, this is an extremely valuable watch today and I’d love to own one, but what looked interesting to me was the movement.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

In doing more reading, it turns out that the “Jet” lineup of movements was only Citizen’s second foray into making automatic movements. A prior movement was around for a few years until the Jet line came in during 1962 and it lasted until the mid 1960’s. As a completely in-house designed movement, the Jet was and is unique due to its geared 360-degree rotor with an oscillating weight on the outside of half of its diameter. Just looking inside reveals something very different from your average automatic.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

With 27 jewels, the caliber 1120/1121 within the Citizen Jet Auto Dater cracks along at a leisurely 18,000 bph and has a power reserve of roughly 45 hours. While the date isn’t quickset, it can be adjusted more quickly by moving the hands back to 9pm and then forward to midnight. The movement can be handwound and this is where things are a bit different. That massive internal rotor glides over 9 jewels and has a really neat mechanical feel when turning the ample unsigned crown. As one of the articles states, the Jet was replaced after only a few years of production, as style trends of the time demanded a slimmer movement.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

Thankfully, the Citizen Jet Auto Dater isn’t only about the movement. There were a number of Jets to choose from and this one stood out to me. The salmon dial jumped out at me. Regarding that, I’ve yet to find another, so I think this one has aged severely from its original white/silver, but it’s lovely. It’s simple with applied indices, a minute track, dagger hands and black print, but it works well. The other thing I liked from the ad pictures was the massive acrylic crystal with built-in magnifier. And the all-stainless case? It comes in at a more than respectable “just shy of” 37mm in diameter and it tallies a length of over 45mm. The watch was shipped with its original stainless bracelet, but it looked so mismatched design-wise to me (too fussy, and not in a detailed fine way – think Speidel gone wild and you’re there) that I swapped it out for an 18mm strap.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

When I reviewed the Citizen Chrono Master, Citizen’s answer to Grand Seiko, I remarked that the watch was a worthy rival in most aspects, but that the case detailing was a bit lacking. That watch dated to 1965 and, oddly, I find this Citizen Jet Auto Dater from 1962 to contain a higher level of finishing.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

Take a look at those twisted lugs and how the bezel meets the case and I think you’ll agree that Citizen put some real effort into this watch. In fact, I’d argue that this watch would look rather dressy and debonair if paired with a black crocodile strap.

Citizen Jet Auto Dater

The Citizen Jet Auto Dater is one of a multitude of great vintage watches from the “other” Japanese brand. Aside from its interesting movement, it probably doesn’t stand out as anything particularly unique, but its large size, impressive build quality and lovely dial make it stylish and significant to me. Oh, and did I mention that I picked it up for a whopping $75? Not too bad if I do say so myself. Until next time…

 



from Best Watches For Men http://bit.ly/2EThydY