Monday, April 9, 2018

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

Sponsored Post written for aBlogtoWatch by advertiser.

Established in 2015 by industrial designer Jonathan Ferrer, Brew Watch Company is a New York City watch brand that spends its time focusing on the details and reminding its wearers to enjoy their momentary escapes in the city through mechanical timepieces. The Brew HP1 collection is a more traditional design sitting comfortably at 38mm with a unique high dome sapphire crystal. Jonathan Ferrer sought out to create a unique DNA while still keeping a sense of comfort and familiarity with his designs. This was one of the main reasons he went forth in designing the cushion case which has a bold, recognizable DNA that would differentiate itself across the diverse spectrum of timepieces in the world.

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

The case design features radial brushing along the top surface and bezel, and horizontal brushing along the mid-case. The case in profile is segmented into 3-layers. The bezel, mid-case, and caseback. The variety of brushing details enhances each component layer and gives an overall sense of quality and consideration. Altogether, it rests comfortably on the wrist with a solid 316L stainless steel brushed bracelet, paired with a butterfly deployant buckle.

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

The dome crystal sits proudly 1.5mm high and produces fantastic light play across its surface as the light cuts across the dial with great clarity. The sapphire crystal also has a remarkable way of collecting light and producing a halo glow effect around the crystal edge.

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

Powered by the robust Seiko NH35A movement with a +41 hour power reserve, this watch has been designed and built to last the test of time. The movement can be seen through the unique porthole opening on the caseback where the balance wheel is visible in constant motion. The caseback design also has industrial aesthetics that can been seen with its vented cutouts that have been inspired by the industrial machines.

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

One of the many distinctive details that has been executed in a subtle manner is the dome dial and curved hands. Reminiscent of more vintage timepieces, the second and minute hands follow the same contour as the dome dial ever so slightly. The dial has even more subtle details that make the wearer look closer. Etched minute markers run from 10H-12H and resemble the “high pressure region” which has been translated from industrial espresso machines. Speaking true to the brand’s philosophy of focusing its attention on the quality and details – regardless of how small.

Brew Watch Company HP1 Collection Watch Releases

The tapered crown is designed to mimic a coffee filter. It’s signed with a coffee bean; a nod to the origin where the watches have been designed and where the founder finds his inspiration while working in NYC cafes. Reasonably priced at $495, these timepieces are produced in limited quantity just once. Jonathan will continue to design and release new collections, never repeating the last. You can learn more and order on their online store. brew-watches.com

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Hands-On With The New 2018 Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph In 43mm

Although the new Breitling Navitimer 8 has been in the spot light for months now, it is time to have a look at the revamped Navitimer 1. The most important version for the purists. Michael already gave a short introduction to all the new Breitling collections during BaselWorld (click here), but now it is time to go hands-on with my personal favorite: the Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 in 43mm.

The Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 43mm would be my personal pick from the entire 2018 collection. This model comes in several variations: steel with a leather strap, steel on steel, gold with a leather strap, gold on gold, gold and steel on leather. For this hands-on article, I picked the full steel version with the famous Breitling pilot bracelet.

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01

The Navitimer 1 with B01 movement was already in the collection. However, new CEO Georges Kern (make sure to read our interview with him) decided to do some small changes to the collection. Less is more, must have been his thoughts, as we mainly see some removals of dial elements. What stayed is that the Breitling Navitimer 01 B01 is available in 43mm and 46mm. I tried both during our meeting with Breitling in Basel, but even though my wrists are kinda large, I prefer the 43mm version. It sits better on my wrist and I don’t like to have a watch that draws that much attention due to its size. Less is more, I agree with that ‘code’ and I feel a watch doesn’t become more special, better or nicer when it is just bigger. I think I got to the point that whenever I see a guy with a huge watch, no matter what brand or segment, it just looks kind of ridiculous to me. Not only that, but also way too ‘fashion statement’ and I believe we are past the ‘big watches’ fashion for a while now anyway. I am not saying the 46mm Breitling 1 B01 is ridiculous, but if this large edition doesn’t fit your body and wrist size in general, the 43mm might be a better choice for you. With my 1.90m length and slight overweight I am pretty sure I can handle the 46mm, I just don’t feel as comfortable with it as with the 43mm. But put the 46mm Navitimer 1 B01 on the wrists of Michael Stockton and you know what I mean. Just put some thought in the size you want to wear. Interesting enough Kern had a similar remark during his Breitling Roadshow presentation in Zurich last February. When a Breitling watch will not fit his wrists, it needs to go. Not sure if that would please all the tall guys in the world, but the message is clear. Enough with the ridiculous sizes.

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 43mm

Panda Dial Says In-House

Just like the Navitimer 8, CEO Georges Kern also decided that the panda dial should indicate that an in-house movement is used for the Navitimer 1. In case there isn’t a panda dial, the Navitimer 1 uses the ETA7750 movement. You will also be able to see this based on the dial lay-out, as the ETA7750 has sub dials at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock instead of the typical 3, 6 and 9 o’clock lay-out for the sub dials. However, to see it from distance or in a glance, the panda dial is an easy indicator that you are dealing with Breitling’s in-house chronograph caliber B01 movement. Besides the dial lay-out and Panda color scheme, also the size should give it away. The ETA based Navitimer 1 chronograph measures 41mm in diameter.

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 43mm

But what did Breitling change more to the dial of their iconic Navitimer? As you can see above, the ‘wings’ are gone. Already during the Breitling roadshow that was held earlier this year, Georges Kern and his team made it clear that the wings would disappear from the dial. Not exactly the same version, but find below the rattrapante model from the previous collection. Breitling dropped a couple of things, especially at 12 o’clock. The dial of the Navitimer was always rather busy, but by removing a couple of things, it has become a bit more quiet and pleasing for the eyes.

The new Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 chronograph has no wings on the dial, instead it just shows the B-logo. They also dropped the founding year, 1884, from the dial. As you can see, the Navitimer 1 B01 in this article has no ‘Chronometer’ on the dial anymore. However, on the official Breitling website the new Navitimer 01 models in 43mm and 46mm show ‘Chronometer’ again. I believe Georges Kern decided to put it back on the dials after a discussion on social media.

B01 Chronograph Movement

As written above, the panda dials indicate that there’s an in-house chronograph movement inside this watch. That’s the Breitling caliber B01 movement of course. It is a movement that has build up a nice track record in a short period of time. The B01 chronograph movement is also being delivered to Tudor for example, for their Heritage chronograph watch. The B01 movement is being used in the Navitimer 1 in 46mm as well as in the panda dialed Navitimer 8 models. This column-wheel movement has a power reserve of 70 hours and ticks at 28800vph.

Breitling B01 movement

The Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 uses a caseback with sapphire crystal so you can enjoy looking at the movement. On the bezel you will find some engravings, like the fact that this is actually a certified chronometer movement  and that the watch is water resistant to 3 bars (~30 meters).

Pilot Bracelet

Although I might prefer the Navitimer 1 on a strap, the watch is also available – as shown in this article – on the stainless steel pilot bracelet. A very cool looking bracelet that Breitling has in their catalog for a long time already. Very solid but also very comfortable on the wrist. Breitling narrowed down the choices for the Navitimer 1 to a calf strap, alligator strap and pilot bracelet.

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01

Some Thoughts

There are only minor changes in the Navitimer 1 collection, but they fit in the new direction that Breitling is heading. They want to focus on the sea, land and air collections and the Navitimer belongs to the latter. With the panda dial for the in-house movement models and one colored dials for the ETA based models, there’s a clear cut in the collection. There’s also a non-chronograph Navitimer 1, like there is in the Navitimer 8 collection, which actually looked quite nice when I tried it on in Basel. With its 38mm, perhaps it is a bit more focused on ladies though. However, with a selection of Navitimer 1 watches ranging from 38mm all the way up to 46mm, Breitling makes sure there’s something for everyone.

Breitling Navitimer 1 B01

Isn’t there anything to criticize? Well, a tiny detail that could be improved in my personal opinion is the chronograph second hand. As can be seen above, the short side consists of a B-logo and an anchor. The anchor is something I don’t understand on a pilot’s watch, never did. But perhaps I missed something here. The B is nice, or was nice, I have to say, when the wings were still there. Now that the wings are taken off the dial, there are now two B’s on the dial basically. One above ‘Breitling Navitimer’ and one on the chronograph second hand. I think I could have lived with a short red tip there as well.

The Breitling Navitimer 1 B01 in 43mm is my preferred choice, but that’s more about the taste than something else. All models have the same feel and finish. The Navitimer 1 B01 starts at €7640 for the stainless steel version on leather up to €45.980 for the full gold (gold case and bracelet) model. The Navitimer 1 B01 in this article retails for €8190, available in the black and white dial as shown here, a blue and black dial and a ‘Mercury Silver’ dial with black sub dials. I found this ‘reverse’ panda to be my favorite in the collection. The red chronograph second hand is a nice and colorful element to the otherwise monochrome theme.

More information can be found on the official Breitling website, here.

 



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Zelos Mako Diver | Hands On Watch Review

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos only makes big watches! Why doesn’t Zelos put out a 40mm watch? These are some of the questions I would see on my Zelos reviews, or on Facebook groups and forums. Well, to those out there wanting a smaller Zelos, your praying and wishing is over. The Zelos Mako Diver is your answer and it comes in at 40mm with a lug to lug of 46mm. It is also available to order and will ship immediately, yet it is on pre-order pricing. At the time of this publication (The Mako went on sale March 6, 2018), this variation I have in hand is $399. Other variations are available as well, including a meteorite dial, for $569. One of the reasons it is such a good deal at this price is because it has a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. Not the NH35 we are so accustom to seeing, but the same movement Oris has been using for years. Matter of fact, I just reviewed the Oris Divers Sixty-Five recently, which uses this same movement. Now, at $400, you can not expect it to be in the Oris league, but as usual, Zelos puts out a lot of watch, for not a lot of money.

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos Mako Diver Specifications:

  • 316 L Stainless Steel Case
  •  40mm Diameter
  • 20mm Lug width
  • 46mm Lug to Lug Length
  • 13.5mm thickness without crystal
  • Water Resistance : 500m
  • Crystal : Sapphire, 2.5mm thick vintage style ‘Box’ crystal
  • Bezel : 120 Clicks, Ceramic insert with 2000 Vickers hardness
  • Movement : Swiss Sellita SW200
  • Dial : Textured with C3 and BGW9 lume
  • Rubber and Leather Straps

Initial Price $399

https://zeloswatches.com/collections/mako-500m-diver

Zelos Mako Diver

As you can see in the specs above, Zelos went all out again with the Mako. Two straps, a ceramic bezel insert, the SW200 movement, domed sapphire and more. From looking at their website, this price will be more at some point, so it is weird from a review perspective as far as which price do I review at. $399 or $749, which is what it will eventually be. Well, being honest, because of the movement, the $749 price tag is feasible. At $399, it is definitely a bargain, at the very least because of the movement. That does not mean I find this watch to be perfect, you guys know me better than that. I do have a few issues, so keep reading.

Zelos Mako Diver

When it comes to build quality, that is never one of my issues with Zelos Watches. The Zelos Mako Diver is no different. The finishing is great as always; all brushed with a thin high polish chamfer to give a nice aesthetic to the case, no rough edges around the bezel or crown, or on the underside of the lugs, which is something I always check for. Zelos is at the top of the game in the microbrand world for a reason-they do not put out a sub par watch, at least not in my opinion. The bezel action is tight on my example, but I can still turn it and even though this is a smaller watch, the bezel itself is thick enough to allow my hands to get a good grip. Unfortunately, the same can not be said for the crown. Between the integrated crown guard and what I consider to be a small crown, it is just hard for me to use. Actually, it is really hard. It aggravated me quite a bit actually. If you have large hands/fingers, be warned.  If you have small to medium sized hands/fingers, you should be fine.

Zelos Mako Diver

The dial pattern of the Zelos Mako Diver is a nice touch. They could have just went with a sunburst dial, or a matte dial as so many brands do, but they wanted the Mako to stand out a little more. One thing that is a little odd is the use of the shark teeth triangle markers. As you can see, they are in addition to the large applied markers, and there are only 3 of them. I get that what they were going for here, but I wish they just used those shark teeth in place of the round markers. On a more positive note, Zelos matched the date wheel to the dial and they put the date in my favorite spot, the 6 o’clock position.

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos Mako Diver

The Zelos Mako Diver wears very comfortably on the wrist, but I do find it a little small for my 7 1/2 inch wrist. I have embraced smaller watches the past few years and have worn 40mm watches in a rotation as well, but the short lug to lug length keeps me from wanting to wear this one more. For those of you out there that want a smaller watch or have small wrists, this will be perfect. The Tropic style rubber is a great strap, and the second strap, a brown leather that I show in the video, is a nice addition, but does not really go with this color combo. Black, blue and brown just does not go together.

Zelos Mako Diver

As usual, the lume on a Zelos is fantastic. Two types of lume are used on the Mako Diver, C3 Super-Luminova and BGW9. The lume is bright and will last about 4 hours or so, but I was still able to see the time after a 6 hour slumber, but I had to wait for my eyes to adjust to the dark, but that is par for the course. This is not Seiko or Lum-tec category, but it is above average for sure.

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos Mako Diver

This Zelos Mako Diver is obvioulsy not a home run for me. Not all watches are. I love the fact that Zelos listened to feedback from their customers and made a 40mm dive watch. It shows he pays attention. The type of interaction you can have with a man like Elshan is something you can not get with the bigger brands. It is one of the things that makes microbrands special, that direct contact with the owner and designer. The Mako is just too small for me, but I know many are going to love it. It has a great dial pattern, the domed sapphire, and it is 500 Meters Water resistant and a has a fully indexed bezel for the real divers. Let’s not forget about the Swiss movement for a $399 price tag. Zelos always impresses me for sure. I would love this in a 43mm with a larger crown, but I am only one guy. There are more than enough watches out there to fit the average wrist, this one is for the rest of you out there that want something more manageable. This would probably look great on a woman as well, though my girlfriend said it was a little too big for her. Go figure.

Please be sure to check out the gallery below and leave your comments as well.



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The 70s: Another Golden Era for the Heuer Carrera

The new Carrera automatic chronograph excited motorsport lovers − Ferrari racing drivers preferred it in gold

Motorsport has always been in the DNA of the Heuer Carrera, which was named after an auto race. Heuer began an innovative partnership with Ferrari in the 1970s. The gold Carrera chronograph, which was given to each Ferrari driver in the Formula One race, became a symbol of the natural symbiosis at Heuer between timekeeping and auto racing.

Heuer Carrera automatic chronograph in 18 karat yellow gold (front and back). Jack Heuer gave this watch in 1972 to the legendary Formula One driver Ronnie Peterson, hence the engraving on the back of the case. The timepiece encases Caliber 12, which succeeded trailblazing Caliber 11. The dial too had a new design. Peterson’s heirs arranged to have the watch auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2016, where it changed hands for 225,000 Swiss francs.

Heuer began the new decade even before the old one had ended. Jack Heuer, the firm’s boss at that time and its honorary chairman today, knew that his chronographs would only have a future if they were also available as self-winding watches. To raise the enormous sums needed to develop the world’s first automatic chronograph, Heuer Leonidas SA formed a strategic alliance with several partners: Büren, the movement manufacturer, contributed the automatic movement with microrotor; Dubois-Dépraz developed a suitable chronograph module with counters for 30 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed hours, and incorporating the rocking pinion that had been invented by Jack Heuer’s ancestor Edouard Heuer; and Jack Heuer was personally responsible for the new watch’s design. The time was ripe on March 3, 1969, when the partners unveiled the long-awaited first automatic chronograph – famous Caliber 11 – at two press conferences held simultaneously at Hotel Intercontinental in Geneva and the Pan Am Building in New York.

For more information got to https://www.tagheuer.com/en/watches/tag-heuer-carrera

A distinguishing feature of the new timepiece was its crown, which was positioned on the left-hand side of the watch’s case. No mere stylish gimmick, this unusual positioning resulted from a technical necessity. The Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module could only be affixed to the microrotor movement if the chronograph’s push-pieces were diametrically opposite the crown. It can be assumed that the buttons on an automatic chronograph are more important than its crown and that this watch would most likely be worn on the left wrist, so the decision was made to place the crown at the left and the buttons at the right. Caliber 11 paved the way for the success of the Heuer Carrera in the 1970s.

The Carrera automatic chronograph celebrated numerous triumphs in the 1970s.

The early Carrera automatic chronographs are avidly coveted today. Collectors are especially eager to acquire the first version with the “Chronomatic” insignia on its dial. It was produced until September 1969. This neologism was replaced one year later by the more readily understandable phrase “Automatic Chronograph.” With their elegant styling, this second generation of Carreras still closely resembled the original model, but the third generation introduced a wider and sportier design: the strap lugs were now integrated into the case, which housed either Caliber 12 or 15.

The Swiss driver Jo Siffert, shown here at the Grand Prix in Monaco, was the first Formula One driver to agree to a partnership with Heuer.

Big watch brands owe their reputations to their pioneering spirit, which is necessarily distinguished by the courage to blaze new trails that no one had previously dared to tread.

Jack Heuer was the first watch producer to sponsor a Formula One racing driver: Swiss pilot Jo Siffert, wo had shot to fame by winning the Formula One British Grand Prix in 1968, beating drivers such as Chris Amon, Jackie Ickx and Jackie Stewart. Jo was also the factory driver for Porsche and drove for them in long-duration events such as the “24 Hours of Le Mans.” Jack Heuer and Siffert met in Siffert’s hometown of Fribourg and got off to a very good start. Siffert would wear the Heuer logo patch on his overalls and put a red Heuer sticker on the front or the side of the cars he raced. In return he would receive 25,000 Swiss Francs per year. Heuer recalls: “This relatively simple sponsoring contract with Siffert was probably one of the best marketing moves I ever made, because it opened the door for us to the whole world of Formula One.” In an ironic twist, the Swiss pilot and Porsche representative convinced Jack Heuer to replace his Alfa cabriolet with a Porsche.

Jack Heuer at the Grand Prix of Monaco in 1973 with the Belgian Formula One driver Jacky Ickx.

For more information got to https://www.tagheuer.com/en/watches/tag-heuer-carrera

Heuer also became a pioneer of product placement in films. Thanks to the American prop master Don Nunley, whom Heuer had recently hired, Jack Heuer succeeded in having his brand’s watches chosen to play supporting roles in Steve McQueen’s racing film “Le Mans” in 1970. Moreover, Steve “King of Cool” McQueen was invited to choose his favorite Heuer wristwatch to wear on camera. The actor opted for the Monaco chronograph and wore the “Heuer Chronograph” insignia on the chest of his racing overall. By the way: the sporty outfit was given to McQueen by Jo Siffert, who advised the actor on the film set.

Steve McQueen during the filming of “Le Mans” with the Heuer logo on his overalls.

Jack Heuer also showed his pioneering spirit when he launched a partnership with Ferrari. In his autobiography, he describes his visit to the Ferrari factory in Maranello in the late 1970s. The racing stable of the “Commendatore” (the name refers to a historical Italian medal that had been awarded to Ferrari’s founder) needed a complex timekeeping system for its test track. Jack Heuer’s portfolio included exactly what the stable needed: the Heuer Centigraph. The costly technology was available only at a very expensive price, which the firm’s patriarch Ferrari was not prepared to pay, so the partners agreed to allow Heuer to use Ferrari racecars as advertising space. The red logo of the Swiss watchmaker soon adorned the hoods of the speedsters from Maranello. Every Ferrari racecar driver received a gold Carrera, Caliber 1158 CHN. Each of them had the driver’s name and blood type engraved on the back of its case.

Ferrari racecar with Heuer logo (1972).

For more information got to https://www.tagheuer.com/en/watches/tag-heuer-carrera

Heuer’s dedication contributed to the resurgence of the Scuderia. Its brightest stars were Clay Regazzoni, who came from Ticino in Switzerland, and the extremely ambitious Austrian pilot Niki Lauda. The two returned the noble brand to the acme of the Formula One race in the middle of 1970s. A detail shows how much these legends loved their Carreras: they wore their Carrera motorsport chronographs during races, while sitting behind the steering wheels in their speedsters’ cockpits.

Jack Heuer (left) explains the construction of their golden automatic chronographs to Niki Lauda (2nd from left) and Clay Regazzoni.

In one respect, the Seventies are similar to our own day and age. Both eras are characterized by disruptions. On the one hand, the so-called “Nixon shock” wrought havoc in Switzerland’s export economy. In August 1971, US President Richard Nixon unilaterally severed the US dollar’s link to gold. Soon afterwards, in 1973, the exchange rate between bullion and the dollar was allowed to float. The value of the Swiss franc appreciated enormously in relation to the dollar, and this made Swiss products much more costly abroad. To remain competitive, Heuer was obliged to sell his watches at their cost of manufacture. To make matters worse, these currency-related woes coincided with an era in which the manufacturers of mechanical watches were hard pressed to cope with the twin threats posed by quartz and microelectronics. Fortunately, Heuer was favorably positioned to master the challenges of the technical revolution. Once again, Jack Heuer had the right instincts and put his company at the cutting edge of progress: the world’s first quartz stopwatch in pocket format, the Microsplit 800, debuted in 1972; the first computerized timekeeping system for auto races was unveiled in 1974; and another world premiere followed in 1975 with the Chronosplit, the world’s first wristwatch chronograph with quartz movement and double digital display (LED and LCD). This timepiece was also popular among racecar drivers. The Carrera too came to the market in a version with a quartz movement, initially as a “simple” three-handed watch. But even the best European ingenuity couldn’t combat the flood of cheap watches from Asia. The difficult situation was further exacerbated by the seemingly unstoppable appreciation of the Swiss franc. The Heuer Carrera, which had pulled into the fast line with plenty of horsepower and racing sport dynamism in the 1970s, now faced an uncertain future.

Today we know: its rebirth was only a matter of time.



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10 Things You (Probably) Didn’t Know About Seiko – Infographic

A few weeks ago, this interesting Seiko infographic was created by the people at  the biggest watch market place in the world, Chrono24. 10 Things you didn’t know about Seiko, unless you are a Seikoholic of course… but even then you might find something you didn’t already know.

Seiko Infographic

A big thank you to Chrono24 for creating this Seiko infographic.



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In The Shop – Introducing The NOMOS Glashütte Autobahn Neomatik 41 Date

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Unity Black Pearl Diver Launches on Kickstarter

Unity Black Pearl Diver

Unity Black Pearl Diver

Unity Watches, who hail from Barcelona, Spain, have launched their third model, the Unity Black Pearl Diver. They chose to launch on Kickstarter this time, for some extra exposure. Some may not be familiar with the Spanish brand, but they have been making their own watches in house since 2010. When I say they have been making their watches in house, they are not only designing the watches but actually machining and assembling the cases in their shop in Barcelona. Even though they have been around for quite a few years now, they have been kind of a sleeper brand, as their first models were a little different in terms of style. Nothing wrong with them, I just do not think they hit the mark for everyone. The Unity Black Pearl Diver is custom made case and dial but it has the cushion case shape so many of us watch enthusiasts are familiar with, and should appeal to a wider audience.

Unity Black Pearl Diver

The Unity Black Pearl Dial is a 316 L stainless case that measures in at 43mm in width with a length from lug to lug of 51mm. This is a good size for most, it is not too large and not small either. It is water resistant to 300 Meters and has domed sapphire crystal with AR coating. Dial hands, markers and bezel have all been coated with Super-luminova, as you would expect for a dive watch. Early Bird pricing comes in at $570 USD, and that gives backers the Black Pearl with a stainless bracelet, rubber strap with Pre-V buckle, strap tool and leather travel case. Delivery is scheduled for June 2018.

Unity Black Pearl Diver

It is always difficult for me to comment on a watch with never seeing it in person, but from the photos and video I see on their campaign, I like what I am seeing. I have always like the cushion case dive watches and the dimensions are right on target for what I wear these days. The hands are a little different for sure and look to be a little small for the dial, but that could just be the photos. The bezel reminds me a of Clerc watches, but not a complete copy, more inspired if anything. As I said above, I do not think Eduardo, owner of Unity, was trying to reinvent the dive watch with this release, but offer something that hits a larger audience.

Unity Black Pearl Diver

The choice of movement for the Unity Black Pearl Diver is not very well known, and that may give people some hesitation. I had a Unity Watch years ago with this movement and do not recall any issues at the time, but it was probably 6 years ago now. I do know Resco used to use the Valanvron V24, which is essentially a copy of the ETA 2824, built by Seagull out of China. The movement, to the best of my knowledge and research, is then sent to Switzerland to be reworked and assembled to get the Swiss Made label. It is a direct replacement for the ETA 2824, with the same dimensions and jewels.

I like what I see, but that is as much as I can comment on. Hopefully when the watches are produced I can get a more hands on look, but until then, if you are interested in the Unity Black Pearl Diver, you can check them out on Kickstarter or their Website below.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1542410278/black-pearl-300-meters-a-piece-of-barcelona-on-you/description
http://unitywatches.com/en/unity-diving-watch/

Unity Black Pearl Diver

 

 



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Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

In keeping with their tradition of utilizing technologically forward materials to produce visually interesting, densely over-complicated watches, Angelus released their first ever diver’s watch, the U50 Diver Tourbillon, during the lead-up to Baselworld. The U50 is a 300 meters water resistant, 45mm wide, titanium cased, totally in-house sport watch with a flying one minute tourbillon. At Baselworld, your pals at aBlogtoWatch were able to get their hands on Angelus’ new ocean-faring creation to get a closer look at the U50’s impressive list of features.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

All images by Bilal Khan

As they did with the design of their U21 and U22 models, Angelus have again built a watch that doesn’t believe in the typical front facing dial with a movement anonymously lurking behind. Rather, the dial and movement coexist in an elegantly constructed display of watch design. With the U50, Angelus took the idea a step further. Whereas the U21 and 22 have a sort of “back” built behind the mechanism (in carbon fiber, which was cool), the U50 is fully skeletonized in a manner similar to the brand’s U20 Ultra Skeleton, which debuted in 2016. That the wearer’s wrist is visible underneath the the A-300 Caliber gives the watch a great deal of visual depth and complexity.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

The only traditional dial elements to be found are the Angelus signature at twelve o’clock, which actually lives on the underside of the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a chapter ring with yellow minute graduations, and applied rectangular lume blocks for hour markers. The hands are blue and yellow, filled with a reasonably sized helping of white SuperLuminova to keep the sporty theme alive. In addition, a small seconds sub-dial, also executed in blue and yellow, is tucked neatly between nine and ten o’clock and has its own tiny lumed blue hand. The internal diver’s bezel, an essential element for a diver’s watch, is also blue and yellow, with an Angelus-styled “A” for a zero/sixty minute marker.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

It’s worth noting that the legibility of the Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon is better than expected for a skeletonized watch, but it’s still pretty rough compared to a watch that’s actually intended for diving rather than for showcasing technological prowess, as is the case with the U50. While we didn’t have the opportunity to photograph the watch in the dark, I would imagine that a lume shot might actually present a more legible picture, as the complicated mashup of the dial and movement would be less distracting than it is during the light of day.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

The real star of the show, and what accounts for much of the cost, is the Angelus A-300 caliber, built with a one minute flying tourbillon. With 23 jewels, a diameter of 32.8mm, and an impressively spindly 4.3mm thickness, the A-300 is haute horlogerie both because of its technologically advanced execution and its impressive level of decoration. Both the main plate and upper bridge of the A-300 caliber are etched with chamfered edges and coated with a black ADLC coating. The six-pointed design of the wheels in the gear train make them stiffer as well. Finally, the beautiful tourbillon cage is mirror polished with painstakingly chamfered and polished edges. This is a movement you can’t stop looking at, and it makes a lot of sense that Angelus left all of it out in plain sight.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

But at the end of the day, the U50 is a diver, so there is a matter of the 300m water resistance. Luckily, Angelus have also incorporated their tech savvy into the design of the dual crown case. Built in a 45mm wide titanium design, the U50 case is masterfully executed with a mostly brushed top and polished sides, which make full use of titanium’s unique darker-than-steel color. As with many other dual crown divers, twin, beveled titanium screw-down crowns with ample crown guards are in the two and four o’clock positions. Anti-reflective sapphire crystals are featured both in front and back, maintaining a high level of visibility of the U50’s inner workings.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

As a diver myself, it’s interesting to note Angelus elected for an internal bezel with the U50. Internal bezels, while cool, are something of a conundrum, as they are difficult to operate in the water and require unscrewing the crown, not something you normally want to do in the water. Normally, a diver sets the watch’s bezel just before leaving the surface, but with an internal bezel, that process is a bit more complicated. Given the significant cost of the Angelus U50, it’s hard to imagine anyone unscrewing it anywhere near water, since there’s a risk it might flood the exquisite and expensive movement. Of course, given the overwhelming likelihood that no one will ever actually take this watch diving, this may very well be a moot point.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

In keeping with the diving theme, the Angelus U50 is presented on a custom molded natural rubber strap, complete with a three-dimensional Angelus “A.” A signed titanium pin buckle that matches the case rounds out the aesthetic.

Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon Hands-On Hands-On

The Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon is a beautiful example of haute watchmaking intertwined with a classic watch archetype—in this case, the archetype of the diving watch. Taking their customary high level of design and watchmaking and manifesting it in a water resistant package demonstrates Angelus’ ability to defy convention and push boundaries. While many, including myself, would argue this isn’t a true diving watch, the U50 does check all the essential boxes for a diver while presenting a sporty character. For the fan of both fine watchmaking and diving with a not insignificant 29,700 CHF to spare, the Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon might make the perfect choice. angelus-watches.com



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