Sunday, April 8, 2018

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

A bit over three years ago, our David Bredan published the Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get a Nod From Snobs article. This roundup of affordable watches ranged from a $150 Swatch Sistem51 and we tried to keep the upper limit at $1,000, though we did make an exception for the Dietrich OTC. I felt now is a good time to provide an updated list for 2018 but that is not to say the choices on the previous list are anything less than great deals.

There are the usual stalwarts of affordable horology like Seiko and Orient on the list, but I felt the need to include some of the microbrands that have satiated the craving that both new buyers and seasoned collectors have for watches that are smart and consciously designed with distinct aesthetic DNA. Prices for watches on this list are as low as $140 with the two most expensive offerings being exactly $1,000 and $1,250, and I really made sure they provide great value for that price to justify their presence on this list. Of course it’s impossible for a top 10 list to be totally comprehensive but we will over time have updated lists, plus aBlogtoWatch is always covering new watches that offer great value and there is also no shortage of resources out there to discover new affordable watches (Two Broke Watch Snobs is a particularly good podcast co-hosted by fellow aBlogtoWatcher, Michael).

I’d also like to invite you, our readers, to comment with additions that you think are worth being on this kind of list and why. I’m very interested to see what’s out there that I missed or didn’t consider (beyond the obvious choices like Casio G-Shock or Victorinox Swiss Army since they get enough attention). Without further ado, here is my list for the top 10 affordable watches that get a nod from snobs in 2018. Note that these are in no particular order so don’t put any value on placement.

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

1. Orient Bambino Small Seconds (SS)

We had Orient’s overall dress watch offerings on our initial list, but it’s great to see the steady refinement and increase in quality from their Bambino Small Seconds watch introduced earlier in 2018. Classic vintage-inspired design (especially that seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock) paired with the new caliber F6222, a modified version of Orient’s in-house F6724, results in what may be the best dress watch value proposition out there today. Plus, it’s got an exhibition caseback and while it’s not anything to write home about, it’s attractively and competently finished and executed.

Sized at 40.5mm wide and 12mm thick in a case that wonderfully balances brushed and polished finishing, there are five variants of the Bambino Small Seconds watch that should appeal to a wide swath of people. The variants and reference numbers are as follows: RA-AP0001S10A rose gold-tone case with white dial, RA-AP0002S10A natural steel case with white dial, RA-AP0003S10A natural steel case with champagne dial, RA-AP0004S10A yellow gold-tone case with white dial, and RA-AP0005B10A natural steel case with black dial. All share the elegant and attractive baton shaped hands and mix of Arabic numerals and indices on the dial. Priced at $305 or $325 depending on the model, it’s not hard to see why the Orient Bambino Small Seconds watch secured a place on our updated 2018 list. orientwatchusa.com

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

2. Undone Urban Vintage & Mystique Watch

We’ve been big fans of Undone here at aBlogtoWatch since they introduced their customizable watches starting with the Urban Vintage Chronograph which was soon followed by the H. Moser & Cie aesthetic inspired Mystique line as well as the minimalist Urban Modern. These three are all design variations on the same meca-quartz powered chronograph, albeit with totally different aesthetic personalities. And that’s what Undone is all about, allowing a vast number of  customizable possibilities within the larger umbrella of your personal taste.

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

What’s refreshing about Undone is that they understand much of watch design these days is iterative as opposed to totally original, and they wear this fact on their sleeves. For example, when I browse their Urban Vintage collection I’m told flat out that the Auta is inspired by the vintage Heuer Autavia or that the Killy is inspired by the vintage Rolex Dato Compax. So, while Ariel reviewed their Urban Vintage Killy, I created an Urban Vintage with a totally different look and feel (which you can see above). It’s just a lot of fun and I recommend playing with their customizer.

I personally own a Mystique and can speak to the physical quality of the product which is solid, especially at this price point. Price for the Urban Vintage and Urban Modern Chronograph is $265 for a “standard” model like the Killy and $295 for a customized piece. The Mystique isn’t a customizable watch as there’s a clear cohesive aesthetic with the dials. But there are four color options priced at $325. The Mystique comes on a leather strap and a dressier alligator strap is also included in the price. undone.watch

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

3. Martenero Edgemere

At this point it’s a bit unfair to classify New York watch brand Martenero as a new micro-brand success story, as they’ve been attracting new collectors and enthusiasts since they debuted their Ace and Founder watches back in 2014. Again, the recipe for success for these independent brands has been thoughtful and aesthetically pleasing designs that are executed as well as they could be considering the price point.

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

People are willing to overlook a Miyota movement when spending the relatively modest sum of $500-$600, but only when their desire for a timepiece with a distinct aesthetic and great design is met. And that’s what Martenero has figured out and excelled at. I think the Edgemere was the watch that showed a brand becoming comfortable in its own skin and willing to make bolder design choices. There are options, but I personally love the model that our Matt Smith-Johnson reviewed. Both the touches of red and blue on the chapter ring and the playful take on marine chronometer hands just make me happy when I look at the dial.

Martenero is a brand that separates the wheat from the chaff when it comes to micro-brands that want to make non-sports watch pieces that are everyday wears that fit in with office and social environments. Price for the Martenero Edgemere is $550. martenero.com

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4. Longines Conquest VHP

The Longines Conquest VHP is the world’s most accurate non-smartwatch housed in a very well-built and good-looking (if unexciting) case from one of the world’s most recognizable luxury watch brands. And it costs $1,000.

That is why this watch is on the list.

Of course I won’t just leave it at that, but after having spent a fair amount of time with the Longines Conquest VHP, I couldn’t recommend it more for someone seeking a sports watch at this price point. In an ideal 41mm wide case size, the VHP returned in 2017 after initially being released in 1984. Accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, Longines and ETA succeeded in making a movement that’s also innovative with the development of the Gear Position Detection (GPD) System, which stops the movement if the watch detects an impact from a drop or fall.

Top 10 Affordable Watches That Get A Nod From Snobs In 2018 Featured Articles

With a five year battery life, the accurate movement, and Longines quality, this is one of the best quartz offerings out there, period. If you’re a mechanical movement snob (and trust me, I understand where you’re coming from) I’d still give this watch a second look and at least try it on in person to appreciate it. Again, the Longines Conquest VHP is priced at $1,000. longines.com



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Hands-On With The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph

Following the Quai des Bergues (which we reviewed here) and Place Vendôme models, Czapek introduced a column wheel chronograph as the third model in their line up – the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie. It was unveiled during Baselworld 2018 and named after the location of the third Czapek boutique, opened in 1850 in Warsaw, Poland.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph

It seems to become a tradition that Czapek opens the Baselworld fair with a breakfast. Even before the first appointment during the press day of the fair, Czapek offers a sneak preview at their new products during an intimate get together in the Volkshaus Basel restaurant.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Unveiled during the Baselworld 2018 breakfast, the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph

Three Dial Variations

The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph makes for a somewhat more sporty watch than the other models in Czapek’s collection. It will become available in three dial variations. The first, named ‘Grand Feu’ still has a classic dial appearance. But the ‘L’Heure Bleue’ and certainly the panda-dialed ‘Dioné & Rhéa’ can be seen as more or less sporty chronographs.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Grand Feu enamel dial

Made by Donzé Cadrans, the brilliant grand-feu white enamel dial is perhaps a bit unexpected in a modern chronograph. It provides a perfect contrast to the various functions displayed, however. The two slightly lowered subdials have been maximally enlarged and make the dial very much balanced. The dial shape isn’t flat but slightly domed, and finally, the brand’s secret signature can be found in one of the subdials once again.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

L’Heure Bleue Ricochet guilloche dial

For the other two dial variations, Czapek reintroduces the fascinating ‘guilloché Ricochet’, which was introduced with the Quai des Bergues models. Crossing circular lines form a pattern of bas-relief squares. This traditional technique was made possible by the rose engine lathe, which was devised in the late Eighteenth century and became a key machine in fine dial-making. The Ricochet design (derived from the pattern made by skimming stones – faire des ricochets = to skim stones) goes back to François Czapek himself.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Dioné & Rhéa Ricochet guilloche dial

As mentioned above, the guillocé Ricochet dialed models are named L’Heure Bleue and Dioné & Rhéa, both names inspired by and related to Nature. The Heure Bleue, or Blue Hour, originally a nautical term, is a period of twilight in the morning and in the evening when the sun is below the horizon and the residual sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade. Dioné & Rhéa are two of the four moons of Saturn, named after two Titanesses of Greek mythology. The two white moons stand brightly in the dark sky just like the two subdials in the black guilloche dial.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Modernized casing

A Sporty Appearance

A sporty watch comes in a sober metal casing, and thus so does the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie. It’ll be available in a stainless steel 41.5mm casing. Compared to former Czapek models the case is slightly modernized, but still sporting the meanwhile famous crown protectors. They ingeniously now serve as beautiful pushers.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Crown guards double as chronograph pushers

To enhance the sporty feeling, Czapek decided to use a boxed sapphire crystal. Higher than the regular domed versions used until now. And last but not least, for sporty reasons, besides leather straps, the panda dialed Dioné & Rhéa model will be available on a rubber strap as well.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Caliber SXH3 made by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier

The caliber SXH3 automatic movement is Czapek’s first chronograph. This integrated column-wheel chronograph movement was made by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, based in the Jura mountains. It delivers 65 hours power reserve, using a single barrel. The SXH3 is a high-beat 36,000/h movement. It makes use of some of the most advanced and effective mechanical elements, like the linear hammer, which reduces wear and tear on parts and resets all the associated dials in one easy movement. A modern solution, the vertical clutch, ensures a perfect start for the chronograph hand. Finally, the diamond-blasted anthracite bridges give the final aesthetic twist to the movement, which is visible through a transparent case back.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie

Price and Availability

The price for the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph will be € 24.000,= and all models will be available from June 30, 2018, onwards. For more information please visit www.czapek.com



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Saturday, April 7, 2018

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D’Horlogerie De Genève Logo

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If you haven’t heard of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, it’s an industry-focused award event that brands strive to win, and often flaunt in their marketing materials. It’s an institution that aims to push brands further in terms of creativity and skill, resulting in horological delights and complications for our admiration. For me, however, one aspect of the GPHG that always misses the mark is its visual identity. As a designer, I have reached my breaking point – my hands can no longer rest idle. In short, we re-branded the organization, and I’d like to share the result with you.

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

With bold simplicity comes great opportunity. Here is a sample advertisement using the form of the icon to crop out various details from GPHG-nominated watches.

Now don’t get me wrong, I am a committed fan of the event and its promotion of watchmaking. It’s just that the GPHG logo has never felt quite “Swiss” to me. Other than the reference to Geneva’s coat of arms and flag, I’ve always felt that something was missing in its execution. But let’s back up a bit first.

Growing up in Canada, I came to identify the Swiss through two cultural exports: 1) watchmaking and 2) graphic design. These two things have been instrumental in shaping my life, and I have pursued both with fervor for as long as I can remember. I recall when, during my final assessment in design school, a professor approvingly declared, “I would almost think you are Swiss, Matt!”

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

A sample GPHG invitation using the deconstructed geometry of the logo to create a Swiss-influenced pattern.

That was thirteen years ago. Since then, I’ve worked my way through the ranks at various agencies and eventually decided to go out on my own. I built Sentient Creative around my personal values of design and business, and I’ve never looked back.

What’s more, I have been able to translate my passion for design to clients, projects, and ultimately funds for more watches. The point is, the marriage between design and watchmaking still shapes my day-to-day. So, during the summer of 2017, I decided to scratch my creative itch and put my small studio to work rebranding the GPHG.

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

A color example of our proposed logo, as featured in the GPHG trophy case. The trophy itself was designed by Roger Pfund and was inspired by Michelangelo’s ‘The Creation of Adam.”

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

Not that they asked us, but I felt compelled, even possessed, to create something that embodied classical Swiss design. At some point during the exercise, I realized we should share our solution with the GPHG and the larger horological community. Our hope was that they would see the value of our proposal and put our solution to use. And we figured that if they liked it, we’d just let them have it. Afterwards, I could rest easy as the watch nerd and designer I am, knowing that we had done our duty.

Now let’s get down to it.

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As readers are most likely aware, the image at left is the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s former logo, a stylized depiction of the Geneva Coat of Arms, which also appears on the Geneva Seal. At right is our stripped-down proposal for the redesign.

Now, receiving the Geneva Seal is certainly prestigious, but the GPHG is something else altogether. It’s something more, an additional accolade, well-established on its own merits. We opted to preserve some visual references to its distinguished history while incorporating modern elements to create a unique but timeless aesthetic. Since brands typically use the GPHG logo in their marketing materials after placing in the competition, we wanted to make sure the brandmark looked like an actual badge of honor. We also simplified the logo to deliver a more focused impact and improve legibility. The current emblem’s inability to scale well on-screen (i.e. on banner ads or low resolution thumbnails) limits its efficacy.

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

As demonstrated by this mock-up, our proposed redesign maintains visibility and legibility even as a small lapel pin.

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

Our proposed design solution also has meaning: the ribbon motif’s twelve points represents the number of categories in the GPHG and coincide with the number of hour markers on a typical watch face. The shield-like shape in the center alludes to the Geneva Seal and represents our commitment to the protection of watchmaking in the face of rapid modernization. Furthermore, the shape of the ribbon’s individual segments are reminiscent of prize ribbons. If the average person saw this design pinned on a brand’s Instagram post, they’d know they were looking at a winner even if they were unfamiliar with the GPHG. Oh, and of course, the colors harken directly back to the Geneva flag and coat of arms.

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

Why I Redesigned The Grand Prix D'Horlogerie De Genève Logo Featured Articles

It took us the better part of a year to develop what we believe to be the appropriate solution, and we definitely feel like we have a winner. We hope the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is listening and will enable us to make a contribution, however small, to the legacy of horology. We’re also aware that unsolicited advice can sometimes appear pushy, but heck, the GPHG has been pushing brands to new creative heights for years. Our admiration and respect for the GPHG inspired us to return the favor.

I’d like to thank Sian Lee, the designer who was instrumental in bringing this vision to life with me over the past few months. I hope we get our chance to leave a mark on something we love.



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Hands-On: The Anonimo Nautilo Automatic

At $2,330, this watch is right at the cusp of what gets price-conscious readers’ hackles up. Yes, the Sellita movement isn’t particularly special or spendy. But there is more to this watch than what drives the hands around. We often forget that a watch’s price also pays for design and materials, labor, QC, marketing, and yes, booths at Baselworld, even in Hall 2. Am I trying to justify the price of the Nautilo? No, I’m not. $2,300 is crowded territory, with a lot of worthy watches duking it out for your dough, from Oris to Seiko. But if the Nautilo Automatic’s aesthetics appeal to you, it is a well-built, quality watch from a recognized name, and a look you won’t see on many people’s wrists. 



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Phoibos Reef Master | Hands On Watch Review

Phoibos Reef Master

Phoibos Reef Master

If you are someone that is always looking for the most value or the most bang for your buck when it comes to watches, Phoibos is probably a brand you should be looking at. The model I have in for review here is the Phoibos Reef Diver, which ranges from $229-$239, depending on the case finish. As you will see in the specs below, you get a lot of features for that price tag. I have covered a lot of watches under $300 over the past few years and some are great, some are just okay. I would put this one somewhere in the middle of that. The build quality and finishing are very good, but one or two design elements are a little off for me. At their current sale price, I am probably being overly picky, but that is what I do here. If you want to know more, keep reading.

Phoibos Reef Master

Phoibos Reef Master Specifications:

  • Movement: SII NH35A
  • Case: 316L Stainless steel 42mmX 48mm
  • Thickness 14.0mm
  • Strap: Black crazy horse strap
  • One rubber strap with signed buckle free
  • Glass:  Double domed sapphire crystal with anti reflective under coating
  • Water resistance: 300M(1000ft) 
  • Bezel:120-click unidirectional ceramic bezel
  • Crown: Screw-Down crown
  • Lume: 15 layers Super-LumiNova BGW9 on hands, indices, and bezel marking
  • Warranty: 2 years

Price $229-239 

*If you live in the US, it will ship from the US warehouse in NY.*

http://phoiboswatch.com/

Phoibos Reef Master

I have two versions (there are a few others as well) of the Phoibos Reef Master in hand. I asked them to send me one of the stainless steel and one of the PVD coated models. Both watches are exactly the same, with the exception of the case finish and color combos. After seeing both in person, my choice would be for the non coated stainless version, as it allows you to see the contrast of the brushed and polished finishes better, where the PVD masks them too much. If you like a black watch, nothing wrong with it, I just think the stainless looks better. Both have sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, leather and rubber straps and sandwich dials.

Phoibos Reef Master

When I really started looking around the Phoibos Reef Master, I was taken a back a bit. I was not really familiar with the brand beforehand, except for seeing some posts on Instagram from their page and a few others. Phoibos is out of China, and from what I can tell, majority of their watches are readily available cases, catalog cases as we sometimes refer to them. I do not see anything wrong with that, especially at this price point. Getting back to when I first saw them in person, my first thought was- “How are they building and selling this level of watch for such a low price?” I do not really have a definitive answer to that, other than they might be involved in a few watch companies, or are part of the factory themselves that produces them, hence no real overhead or need to make a bigger profit. This is great for the consumer, as it allows for a pretty damn nice watch, for what most would consider low cost. On the other hand, I am not sure how other microbrands feel about the low, low pricing.

Phoibos Reef Master

It is said over and over in reviews, but the fit and finish on these watches is impressive. What is fit and finish? Well, its a combination of things, but how the crown and bezel operate, how the case back sits against the case, the fit of the bezel, the hands and markers, etc. Overall, this Phoibos Reef Master would get a A- from me in that department. I do not feel like I am holding or wearing a cheap watch, at least not when it comes to the case and bezel.

Phoibos Reef Master

The dial on the other hand is what keeps this watch from getting that A+. The first one, is highly subjective, but I just do not care for the octopus on the dial. It comes off cartoonish to me, and just does not translate to a professional watch. It is not just the fact they used an octopus, but the way it is drawn as well. I wish they just went with the brand name and left the octopus to the back(there is one on the back as well). The other thing that stands out is the matte dial. It just looks cheap to me. When doing macro photography on it, it looks like it is made out of black construction paper. Again, this is a inexpensive watch, so there are always going to be a few areas where corners are cut when it comes to a watch priced like this, that offers as much as this does. On the flip side, it is a true sandwich dial, the hands and markers and bezel insert are filled with BGW9 lume, and you get a sapphire crystal, and a Seiko NH35 automatic movement to boot. When is the last time you saw an automatic watch with these specs for under $250?

Phoibos Reef Master

On the wrist, it is very comfortable. The leather straps are of decent quality and the 42X48 dimensions make it great for most wrist sizes. Of course, for some, this will be on the small side, but for those that do not like a big, chunky dive watch, this should work. The included rubber straps that I show in the video are not all that great in my opinion, but they are included, so you do get two straps with matching buckle finish. One thing I always like to check is how easy is it to unscrew the crown and set the time or date while it is on the wrist; happy to report, no issues with the Phoibos Reef Master in that department. 7 1/2 inch wrist for reference.

Phoibos Reef Master

The Reef Master looks great in the dark if sufficiently charged and while the pics below do make it look like a beast in the lume department, it will basically be faded completely in about 2 hours. That is still nothing to really shake a stick at though, again, consider the price point and all that is offered.

Phoibos Reef Master

Phoibos Reef Master

All things considred, I find the Phoibos Reef Master to be a great bargain. 10 years ago, I really did not think you would ever see a quartz watch with all the extras at this price, let alone an automatic. There is a lot I like about the Reef Master, and a few things I did not, but at $229, it doesn’t matter. This is a great first time automatic watch for someone, a great beater watch, your first foray in to a dive watch or your first foray into the microbrand world. I mean, this is a pretty inexpensive way to dip your toes in the the water. I would love if they took my advice and in future models got rid of the octopus on the dial, as that really is the biggest drawback for me, but, you can’t have everything.

Thank you for reading. Please check out the video above if you have not already and you can leave your comments or questions down below.



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Hands-On With The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo in Titanium and Platinum

There are a couple of watches that everyone wants, but only a few can have. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is such a watch. The fact that you rarely see them in the flesh is not only because of its hefty price tag, it is also because of the limited production of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo. This results in long waiting lists and it isn’t very likely you will come across one on display at a retailer or boutique, most of them are going straight to the customer who ordered one.

In 2012, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo, or ‘Extra-Thin’ as it is being officially called since then, received an update. It was also the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak, celebrated in different places around the world, and we visited (and reported) about the one in Paris. The bracelet was re-done, which means it received a new clasp and the links have been made a bit thicker. The most obvious change however, was the dial. It returned to the design of the original A-series (reference 5402ST) Royal Oak, with a small Clous-de-Paris motif and the AP logo positioned at 6 o’clock.

Ever since the updated Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo reference 15202, the manufacture in Le Brassus made sure that almost every year there is a new variation of this iconic Gerald Genta design. In recent years they introduced a rose and yellow gold version of this very reference, but earlier this year Audemars Piguet surprised everyone with a titanium and platinum version.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202IP

The first thing that came to mind when picking up the Royal Oak Jumbo is the weight of the watch. Somehow, due to the use of platinum for the bezel and center links, I expected it to be heavier than it actually is. The use of titanium for everything else regarding case and bracelet, really evens out the platinum weight. So in the end, the watch is about the same weight as my trusty old stainless steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo

But there’s more to it of course. A detail that is hardly a detail, of course, is the platinum bezel of this new Royal Oak.  One of the characteristics of the Royal Oak Jumbo (and other references in steel and gold) is of course the fine brushed top of the bezel with 8 polished facets. For this new reference 15202IP, Audemars Piguet decided to polish the bezel completely. This does change the look of the watch quite a bit, and I surely needed to get used to it. Also the smaller links in the bracelet are polished instead of brushed. In other words, all platinum parts have received a polished finish. It is a slight change compared to the 15202 in other materials, but one that can’t be missed.

Whether you like it or not, is up to you. I considered the following: if Audemars Piguet would do an exact version of the stainless steel one, but in a titanium & platinum combination, there would be absolutely nothing about the watch that would give this away. Now, at least connoisseurs will immediately recognize whether someone is wearing a 15202ST or this new 15202IP reference.

As you can see below, from some angles, the bezel turns completely dark due to the polished finish. At first this was all ‘wrong’ in my opinion, but after having played around with it, I came to the conclusion that this is just a different watch from the stainless steel model (or gold versions for that matter) and should be treated as such. To be honest, I am pretty sure that most of these 15202IP pieces will end up at collectors who already have their stainless steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo, new or old reference. It is typically a watch for Royal Oak adepts, not for the guy who just wants one Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo

Caliber 2121

I have wrote a lot about this caliber 2121 movement, so I won’t repeat myself again. If you want to read more about this Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 based movement (which they never used themselves), click here for my comparison article between the Royal Oak 15202 and the Nautilus 5711/1A for example or this article which is about my own 15202ST watch.

In short, this caliber 2121 article is ‘extra-thin’, with only 3,05mm in height (including the rotor). It can be so thin, because it doesn’t use the regular ball-bearing rotor, but instead a rail on which the weight-mass rotates. The total height of this Royal Oak Jumbo in titanium and platinum is 8.1mm, with a diameter of 39mm.

The movement has a beautiful skeletonized 21 carat gold rotor and consists of 247 parts in total. It has a power reserve of 40 hours and ticks at 19,800vph. Not the fastest movement, but remember that this movement was already there in 1967, when most movements ticked at this speed (or 18000vph). For this specific model in titanium and platinum, Audemars Piguet is able to process custom requests for the design of the rotor. Think initials, family weapon etc. Besides the thinness and construction of this movement, it is also the decoration and finish that makes it one of my personal favorite automatic movements (without complications). The bridges have polished bevels, satin brushed edges and beautiful perlage on the recesses. All manually finished, including the mainplate. Of course, this is also being reflected in the hefty price tag of any Royal Oak Jumbo configuration.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202IP

Exclusively For Audemars Piguet Boutiques

There are just over 50 Audemars Piguet boutiques world wide. These boutiques have the advantage that they are able to display and source the boutique specials from Audemars Piguet. In the past, we saw some very interesting and nice looking Offshore models (Italy market, and what about the beautiful Montauk Highway special), only for boutiques. This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 15202IP is also exclusively for their boutiques. Only 250 of these watches will be produced, no specific time frame given, but these will only be delivered to one of the AP boutiques. Despite the US$34,800 price tag, I am pretty certain that all 250 will be sold relatively quickly. For starters, because the Royal Oak is hot. Audemars Piguet breaks record after record concerning sales, according to CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, who loves to bring this news every year in Geneva. Always in his own rather special way of communicating with members of the press. He was pretty self confident about this watch, as it wasn’t even high-lighted during the press presentation of all new Audemars Piguet models. When he was being asked about it, he was clearly annoyed and just said it was only few pieces anyway and it wasn’t really news. Just different materials. Which is obviously true, but nevertheless the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is for many the watch to have when it comes to this brand. Or at least the wish to ever own one, even though it is probably not their best selling model (but neither is the Daytona to Rolex). I can imagine that a brand doesn’t want to be hung up to that one model all die-hard collectors refer to (and only few buy), but should also perhaps find peace in their own slogan (“To break the rules, you must first master them“), that they really mastered the Royal Oak with the 15202 (and predecessors). Because of that, they can break the rules.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202IP

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is one of my favorite watches. It took me 10 years before I could purchase (and afford) one back in 2009. It is perhaps the perfect luxury sports watch and I personally prefer it over the direct competition, even though that other brand might have ‘the name’. I love the raw and industrial look and feel of the Royal Oak, and the fact that the Jumbo has this beautiful caliber 2121 movement that I highly respect. Also, there is no other competitor who has such a beautifully integrated bracelet. It feels as just one piece, how it was meant by its creator and designer. The price for all this is high with its $22,700USD for the stainless steel version. For this titanium and platinum version (15202IP) it is even higher of course, with $34,800 USD. The question that remains is whether you think the small aesthetic differences are worth it, to go for this titanium and platinum version instead of the regular stainless steel one. Both can be considered to be rare and difficult to get, one as a limited edition and the other simply by a limited production. If you want to go ‘all out’ or simply want an edition that is more different than the steel version, you can also consider the yellow gold version that I reviewed here.

More information via Audemars Piguet on-line.



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