The Crepas Loggerhead – The Newest DWFG Watch

Here on Fratello Watches, we generally cover the new watch releases that the Diver’s Watches Facebook Group (43,000 members and growing) helps create along with what is most often a micro brand. Thus far, we’ve reviewed releases from Zelos, Gruppo Gamma and Aquadive. All sold out quickly and were great, limited edition “one and done” pieces that showed serious evidence of design choices made in part by the online group’s moderators. The group tries to work on at least a couple releases per year and today’s article takes a look at the newest: the Crepas Loggerhead.

If you’ve never heard of Crepas, don’t worry because I hadn’t either. In the quickly expanding world of micro branded watches, it’s not easy to keep up with the sheer number of brands, but as a bit of a spoiler, Spain-based Crepas is one to watch. Now, depending on where you’re from and how you read things, the brand’s name might come off as a bit odd, but in what I’d term as a nice surprise, the name has meaning. “Compañía Relojera Especializada para Actividades Subacuáticas” is the long form of the name and taking the first letter of each leads us to “Crepas”. If you’re not a Spanish speaker, the name stands for “Specialized Watch Company for Underwater Activities”, so one at least doesn’t have to guess as to the purpose of the company’s watches. Like many smaller brands, the watches are likely made in Asia (read: China) and as we’ll see with the Crepas Loggerhead, it’s long on features and contains some of the better finishing I’ve seen at this price point.

It’s possibly a bit odd to start with the case detailing of a watch instead of the dial, but let me explain. When spending 400 – 700 Euros on an automatic watch, I’m generally a bit forgiving of the typical slab-sided cases that are found on micro-branded (heck, even macro branded) watches. Many brands play to this by releasing some sort of aviation-themed watch because these types of watches often were released with such cases decades ago. On the other hand, there are plenty of dive watches at this price that makes it out the door with decent bezels or topside finishing that have little in the way of sculpting on the sides. With the Crepas Loggerhead, you’re certainly not left wanting for nicely rendered surfaces.

A look from the side of the Crepas Loggerhead shows no less than three distinct surfaces that come together to add some higher end complexity. Of note is the oft-eschewed undercut that tapers inwards to the case back. Taking a look at the case shape in general, we are met with what I’d refer to as a blockier version of a c-case. It’s not overtly retro, but it certainly brings in touches from a number of past watches. Most obviously, and perhaps because it’s paired with a well-weighted rotating stainless 120-click bezel with luminous elements (and there are some dial similarities too), I see some Seiko Monster in the Crepas.

The 4:00 screw down crown – signed with the brand’s propeller motif – also brings Seiko to mind. This crown, by the way, is the best I’ve ever used on a micro brand (admittedly, I do end up testing a lot of prototypes) and is honestly better than the one on my modern Seiko Turtle. The spring feels solid once the crown is unscrewed and it’s smooth to screw in when sealing it. It’s impressive that it exhibits none of the usual slop on so many watches out there.

When taking a look at the dial of the Crepas Loggerhead, there’s once again a decent amount of Seiko Monster. The layout is extremely legible with its arrow-shaped C3 Superluminova markers at every hour and the similarly shaped hands make time telling a breeze. A thoughtful note is found on the sweep hand as it contains a nice little black lollipop. I also like the non-intrusive, yet readable date at 4:00 as well. The black-printed verbiage on the dial is kept to just the facts and it contains one fo the better integrations of the DWFG logos as well. Plus, I find the use of a script “m” and “ft” rather charming near the 1000m water resistance notation. The nice matte orange finish itself comes off as retro “chalky” in some lights and brighter in others, which is likely due to the AR on the flat sapphire crystal.

Flipping the Crepas Loggerhead on its dial reveals what just might be my favorite detail: the case back. Now, most micro-branded watches feature what is typically some sort of ornate case back, but this depiction of a tortoise is my favorite of all and could easily be at home on the back of a watch from a much larger and/or more expensive brand. The matte background contrasts wonderfully against the polished raised surfaces that make up the reptile’s shape. It’s seriously good.

Moving on to the bracelet of the Crepas Loggerhead, I’m once again pleased to say that this is a quality piece. While the bracelet is wide at 22mm, the links are notably supple and comfortable. Links can be removed via screws (yay!) and there’s a nicely crafted foldout wetsuit extension (don’t fear the fact that it’s askew – I misaligned the spring bar) hiding under the stamped clasp.

I generally think of Robert-Jan’s hate/hate affair with Seiko bracelets when I’m looking at any bracelet, but I do think he’d give this bracelet a passing score.

My only concern is with the end links and how they meet up with the case. I actually think it looks too plain and slab-like; it dumbs down the overall look a bit too much and overhangs the case. I’m not sure if Crepas has finalized the design yet, but it’s the only semi-clumsy detail on the watch.

Since we are talking about a small brand watch in the Crepas Loggerhead, you’re likely expecting a Japanese movement or perhaps one of the upstart Swiss ETA clones. Well, you’d be wrong as this piece uses an actual ETA 2824-2 automatic. While there’s nothing wrong with any of those alternatives I named, there’s a slight premium feel to having the original ticking away inside the case. As per usual, the movement hacks and includes a quickset date. As mentioned, the crown action is perfectly smooth and all was straightforward to use.

So, now we are left with a couple key points regarding the Crepas Loggerhead and that’s the “how does it wear” discussion and “what’s it cost” question. We’ll start with the wrist presence portion because this watch has it in spades. For a company that mentions that it makes reasonably sized watches, the Loggerhead pushes up against that definition. It’s actually not quite as massive as it looks when comparing it to my Doxa SUB, but it’s not small either.   Plus, it is seriously weighty. Size wise, the 316L case comes in at 44mm in diameter, 52mm lug to lug and roughly 14.5mm in thickness. The watch wears better than I would have thought – it actually does fit my wrist – but I cannot help but think how sweet this package would be at 40/41mm. Apparently, the DWFG leaders chose this size with Crepas in order to ensure it appeals to the larger wristed folks within the group.

The Crepas Loggerhead will be available as a limited run of 400 pieces and buyers can choose one of 5 dial colors: orange, yellow, light blue, black, or white. There’s no restriction on the number of each dial color, but the total combination of watches will be limited to 400 pieces. The watch will come with a screwdriver, personalized owners card with the edition number, and a carrying case.   Price wise, the Loggerhead will cost 529 Euros (plus 21% VAT within the EU) and I find that completely reasonable when taking into account the overall quality of the entire package.

Pre-orders for the Crepas Loggerhead are currently being taken on their website. This watch is just the latest testament to the large DWFG’s ability to create unique and thoughtfully designed watches in partnership with aspiring brands. The Loggerhead just might be my favorite release yet.

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Hands-On: The Raymond Weil Maestro 2239 Series Moon Phase

Carrying an MSRP of $1,295 on the leather strap and $1,495 on the mesh bracelet, the competition this watch faces is not to be understated, including products for both general consumers and passionate enthusiasts. From lower cost indie brands to big guns like Oris, Hamilton, Longines, Frederique Constant, Nomos, and even Apple, $1,500 is a hard-fought price point these days. Nevertheless, I found the Maestro 2239 Moon Phase surprisingly nice on the wrist and a solid overall package. 

For more information, visit Raymond Weil online. 

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The New Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronographs

Cars and watches, [almost] always a good combination. Frederique Constant’s CEO Peter Stas must have thought so too when he started to support vintage car rallies back in 2004. Not only do they support the European Healey Club again in 2018, they also decided to celebrate with a new Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph.

Vintage Rally Healey Chronographs

The vintage in the name ‘Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph’ of course refers to the rally they support, but also to the inspiration of the three new chronograph models. Limited to 2888 pieces each, these chronographs come in a 42mm case in stainless steel and in plated rose gold. For the stainless steel version, there are two dial executions: one with (racing) green and white subdials and one in silver with grey subdials. The plated rose gold Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph has a navy colour dial with white subdials. All watches come with matching racing (perforated) straps.

Aside from the plated rose gold and dial variations, all three watches come with the same specifications. They have the FC-397 chronograph calibre installed, ticking at 28.800vph and offering a 46-hour power reserve. This chronograph movement is an ETA based calibre, with two registers. One indicating the running seconds, and at 3 o’clock you will find a 30-minutes counter. The movement is visible through the sapphire case back, as you can see below.

Two register chronographs have been hot for a while, and totally in-line with the craze for vintage (chronograph) watches. If it wasn’t for the size of this watch and the huge Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, this watch could be easily mistaken for a real vintage watch. Oh, and the convex sapphire crystal of course.

The two steel versions retail for €2595 / $2795USD, and the plated rose gold version for €2895 / $3095USD. The stainless steel green dial Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph has reference number FC-397HGR5B6. The white and grey dial version has reference number FC-397HSG5B6 and the plated rose gold watch has reference number FC-397HN5B4. All 3x 2888 watches are numbered on the case back.

Our own preference would be the white and grey Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph. The green one is very British indeed, but in the long run, we feel the white and grey might be a bit more classic. The plated rose gold is very nice, but it makes it too much of a dress watch for us.

Back to supporting rallies: In July, the Healey Club France will participate in the “Le Mans Classic” 2018 rally with the race team consisting of the Austin Healey 3000 MK II 54 FAC of Jetze Visser and the drivers Jan Lammers and Jaap Sinke.

More information via the official Frederique Constant website.

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In The Shop – Vintage Watches: A 1968 Heuer Autavia 30 Dato Ref. 7863, A 1963 Rolex Explorer 5501, And A 1995 Tudor OysterDate Automatic-Chrono Time Ref. 79180 With ‘Albino’ Dial

An Analysis Of The Speedmaster Phillips Auction Results

Let me start by saying that it always amazes me that there is such a gap between results from auctions and from the ‘normal’ marketplaces for watches. Today’s Phillips auction results are no different, and you also need to deal with buyer’s premium and deal with taxes. The latter should be always dealt with if you buy abroad (or outside EU for EU residents for example). I will get back to the differences in prices later, let’s have a look first at the Speedmaster watches that were part of today’s Phillips auction in Hong Kong.

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: SIX

Today, there were 10 Omega Speedmasters up for sale during the Phillips auction this morning (my local time). Phillips was so kind to send me a catalogue, so I could study the lots a bit. Among them is a vintage pre-Moon model like the 105.012 that is basically considered being the Moonwatch as per our story here that has been validated by Omega. Worn by Aldrin and Armstrong (Collins wore a 145.012), it was the 105.012 that was used on the Moon during that first moon landing. At a later time, also the 145.012 would be used on the surface of the Moon. Another vintage piece that was auctioned this morning is one of my personal favourites, the Speedmaster BA145.022, better known as the yellow gold Speedmaster Apollo XI 1969 numbered edition. Only 1014 pieces were produced and sold of this specific watch. Then, there is a 145.022-69 with a tropical (brown) dial. The other Speedmasters that were sold at the Phillips auction are more recent (limited edition) models, the oldest being from 1996 (the Apollo XIII limited edition). Without further ado, let’s have a look at a number of the sold lots.

An Analysis Of The Speedmasters From The Phillips Auction

I will start with the one I love, the 18-carat gold Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 that we covered here so often in the past 6 years for Speedy Tuesday.

Lot 808 – Speedmaster BA145.022-69

This watch was made to commemorate the Apollo XI landing in 1969 and was presented to President Nixon, his vice-President Agnew and a number of officials. Also, the watch was presented to Apollo astronauts. This all happened at a special banquet in Houston on November 25th 1969, where 19 astronauts attended. Watches #3 up to #28 have been given to astronauts, as well as #1001 to #1008. We also note that officially, there is no registration of the watch being given to Swigert and Haise (Apollo 13), but according to what we’ve heard they must have received them later on. Watches #1001 to #1008 were presented to astronauts in 1972 and 1973, so much later than the banquet of 1969, as not all Apollo missions were accomplished at the time. We covered this watch from various astronauts (as they came up for auction) and the ones that were sold on the public market (#33 to #999). You can read about it here, here, here and here. But also here, here and here and for example. Yes, I really love this watch.

Anyway, this morning the Speedmaster BA145.022-69 referenced Apollo XI 1969 watch fetched a stunning $450.000HKD, which converts to $57.000USD (~€49,000).  The watch sold at the Phillips auction was apparently an early one, having number #163 engraved on the back (the auction catalogue says #169 but the website says differently, also the image of the case back in the catalogue shows a clear #163) and was sold to the Japan market in February 1970. That said, the dial is one of the 3rd generation, as it has a round ‘O’ and not the sought-after oval ‘O’ (as in ‘Omega’).

There is no box and papers with this watch, which would be a rarity indeed. The (textured) crater box is rare as hen’s teeth. My watchmaker has one, which he sourced for his own gold Speedmaster Apollo XI and paid about 500 Euros. That was at least 10 years ago, today’s price would be close to adding a 0 to that I am afraid.

Although 57.000USD or 49.000 Euro is a crazy amount of money, (including 25% premium) and perhaps a bit of taxes as well, this is a rare piece. The 1980 gold Speedmaster Apollo XI (345.0802) is much rarer with only 300 pieces, but the 1969 model has the story of the astronauts and Nixon, of course. However, the 1980 one might be a good alternative as it can be found for much less. That said, I feel that the price fetched is fair when compared to some of the Rolex watches sold but I also have to step in here and tell you that in the regular market, these watches are often offered for much less than this. However, with this price, I sense that people who have this watch in their possession see it as a good reason to up their prices as well.

Lot 809 – Speedmaster Professional 105.012

If you want the real deal, this is it. The reference 105.012 is the one that was – together with the 105.003 and 145.012 – used by astronauts during the Apollo missions. The 105.003 was a left-over of test purposes assumingly, but Omega sent a number of batches of 105.012 and 145.012 to NASA for use in space (and on the Moon). The 145.012 is a bit cheaper normally, although it has the better construction of the chronograph pushers. Anyway, the 105.012 has the story, as it was on the wrists of Armstrong and Aldrin. Aldrin used his Speedmaster for sure on the Moon itself.  What we have here is a later 105.012, with serial number 24.951.484. According to the archives from Omega, production of this particular watch finished on June 19th, 1967. On the case back of this watch, there’s an inscription to be found (‘TAT Flying Club’) and engraved wings, but despite all efforts, no-one could find out anything about this.

This Speedmaster 105.012 fetched $200.000HKD during the Phillips auction this morning, which converts to $25,490.- USD (~€22.000). Usually, these watches go between roughly $10K USD and $16K USD, so the paid price of $25,490 (including 25% premium) is a hefty price tag for this reference. It shows that speculators and collectors are willing to invest quite a bit in these last references using caliber 321 though. It does come with an original bracelet, stamped (Q)2 / 67. It has a beautifully aged dial, some light patina and a Dot-Over-Ninety bezel. It has a ‘fitted’ presentation box which probably means they added a time correct box for this Speedmaster. To me, this has no real value unless there’s proof it really came with the watch in the first place. Paperwork would have been more interesting and given the fetched price, kind of to be expected. In the end, this watch will definitely be worth 25K USD sometime soon with today’s demand for Speedmasters.

Lot 807 – Speedmaster Professional Apollo XIII (Ref  3595.52.00)

Although there is another vintage Speedmaster sold during the Phillips auction of this morning, the 145.022-69 with tropical dial, I want to jump to this 1996 Speedmaster Professional Apollo XIII. Apollo 13 was a very important mission for NASA. Although Apollo 11 was the first moon landing and Apollo 12 went rather good as well, the public lost interest a bit in the space race after Apollo 11. The thing that needed to be done was done, so what was the point in spending a tremendous amount of money in further exploration of the Moon? Apollo 13 changed that. Because there was an explosion of one of the tanks of the Apollo spacecraft, it suddenly became very uncertain whether Swigert, Haise and Lovell would have a safe return. We told the story here and elsewhere (<- Speedy Tuesday Magazine download) numerous times. Omega played a huge role in the success of the return of these astronauts and NASA rewarded them with the Silver Snoopy Award in October 1970. The Speedmaster was a key factor in timing the rocket boost on their way back to Earth, in order to enter the atmosphere correctly (not correctly means the spacecraft would just completely burn, including the astronauts).

The story on Apollo 13 was told in the 1995 blockbuster movie with the same title, featuring Tom Hanks as astronaut James ‘Jim’ Lovell. If you haven’t seen that movie, log off now, go home and watch it. Don’t be back until you’ve done so. Also in 1995, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo XIII as you see here. Only 999 pieces (at first), with a special certificate of authenticity (as all limited editions get) and a black box embossed with ‘Apollo 13’. Buyers would also receive the mission badge of Apollo 13. On the dial of this watch, the mission patch at 9 o’clock. This inspired later Speedmasters also to have one for missions, hence the 1997 Missions Case with 22 Speedmasters having such a badge at 9 o’clock, including again this Apollo XIII model.

This number 958 of 999 pieces, and this number is engraved in the case back. Because it is a later production, in 1996, you will find that this watch already has the later bracelet. When it first came out, it has the much-appraised reference 1479 bracelet. Later on, Omega put these watches on the more modern looking 1499. This is the design that is still being used today, be it with screwed links and a different clasp etc. It still has a tritium dial and hands, and a caliber 861 movement. In 1996/1996, this changed for the regular production Moonwatch to Super-LumiNova and the caliber 1861 movement. The funny thing about these 1990s Speedmasters with tritium is that they develop this beautiful yellow patina as you can see on this watch. I have an Apollo 13 limited edition myself as well (from 1995) and it has the same ageing. People who want to buy a cool Speedmaster without breaking the bank, a 1990s model with tritium dial and hands is the way to go.

This watch fetched $100.000HKD this morning at the Phillips auction, which converts to about $12,745USD (~€11.000) including the 25% premium. I think I paid about €5000 in 2013 for this watch, which was on the high side at the time. I feel this watch was always a bit under-appreciated in terms of value, as for a long time it just stuck at 9000 Euro. And you can sometimes still find them for this amount, but perhaps this auction changed it. Why do I feel it is justified? It has a low number for an Omega Speedmaster limited edition (999 pieces) and it simply looks stunning. The colours of the mission patch (with yellow and orange) are very nice and in my opinion, it is one of the best-looking watches with a (mission) patch at 9 o’clock.

A more thorough write-up about this watch can be found here.

Some Of The Others

I was surprised to see the Snoopy 2003 watch (lot 803) going for $100.000HKD as well, although this one and the Apollo 13 are somewhat related. The production number on the Snoopy from 2003 was relatively high, with 5441 pieces, and not a quick seller at the beginning when it was introduced. However, once the word got out, the demand increased and so did the prices. Prices are approximately 25% lower in the market right now, but I guess that’s what happens at auctions. In this case, it is exactly the premium for Phillips auction that makes the difference.

Then there is the Alaska watch, that we covered here a while ago, that was introduced in 2008 as a commemorative model for the 1970 Alaska watch. In the link I’ve given you, you will find both watches. The original and the re-edition. The 2008 model suddenly became a highly sought-after watch and fetching some crazy prices at the moment. So the $118.750HKD is quite similar to the current market value. Prices on Chrono24 are all over the place for this one, starting at around $10.000USD.

For an overview of all the sold Speedmasters at the Phillips auction in Hong Kong, click here.

A Couple of Thoughts

A number of Speedmasters are really tough to find. Like the gold model or the Apollo XIII in this case, perhaps even more so than a nice 105.012 or tropical 145.022. You have to have a bit of luck, and perhaps a great network to make a purchase of one of those. I clearly see added value in bidding on them in an auction. Some other models, like the Alaska 2008 and the 2003 Speedmaster Snoopy, can be found easily. It is a matter of having the rights funds, and you can at least keep the 25% premium in your own pockets. For relatively easy-to-find pieces, I don’t get the use of an auction house, unless you want to have some security perhaps. Please note that if you are a European bidder for example, the Hong Kong auction can become very expensive as you can add approx. 20% when shipped to Europe (customs). Always make sure to find out these things, before you have an unexpected and unpleasant surprise.

Let’s not forget that a big part of the value of some of thee watches is in the auction itself, not the watch. 25% premium is quite a bit, and if a watch gets auctioned again, at least another 20-25% goes into the auction house. We see this with the Daytonas for example, where the value is much higher. In the end, if a watch gets auctioned two or three times, does it really still has the given value? In my personal belief, I think a lot of hot air is being created this way. This doesn’t mean someone is not willing to pay for it, but in my book the real value, or even market value, gets a bit skewed. That said, for real unique pieces (like the Paul Newman Daytona Paul Newman or the Elvis Presley Omega watch) or hard to find watches, an auction house is a very good solution.

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Watch Spotting: A Most Unexpected Swiss Watch Brand Cameo In ‘Deadpool 2’ (Mild Spoilers)

At least in the Deadpool 2 universe, of course, this has certain implications. Time machines, after all, are a variation on the classic “Grandfather Paradox” of time travel, which asks, “What would happen if you went back in time and killed your own grandfather?” A time machine, under one theory regarding this paradox, implies preservation as fixed points in time, any events necessary for the existence of the time machine – otherwise, you wouldn’t be able to time-travel in the first place. This in turn implies that even in the grim darkness of the far future, Carl F. Bucherer has survived, and by extension, at least part of the Swiss watch industry, and by extension, Switzerland (huzzars). It also implies, given the amount of energy required to create a stable Einstein-Rosen wormhole, that they’ve finally solved that pesky battery problem. Finally, naturally, we must assume that the Swiss solution to the impending Smartwatch Crisis was to get into the time travel business. Per ardua ad astra.

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Swatch Skin Irony Launch Party (In Antwerp) Report

Most of our team grew up in the 1980s (sorry Gerard), and that means a Swatch was on our wrist. It was only later that we learned that it was exactly this brand that saved almost all of the Swiss watch industry. So we have huge respect for Swatch, but not only for being the hero of the industry, also because they brought us some cool watches when we were kids. And they still do, as we could witness last week.

It’s not every day that we get invited for a launch party in driving distance, so when we heard about the new Swatch Skin Irony launch in Belgium we happily got in the car to drive down to Antwerp.

Swatch Skin Irony

Upon arrival, the theme was well visible throughout the location. Being welcomed by staff that had their faces decorated just as on the adverts. As they use #futureclassic as one of the key points, their marketing campaign uses a face with what looks like half a metal statue. Nicely done and very catchy!

In the center of the room we find the new Swatch Skin Irony collection on display. In total there are 8 models being launched. And when looking at these new models they are clearly aimed at men and women (separately and with some unisex models). Our first impression is good, but of course, we already have a thing for Swatch. I actually strapped my Sistem 51 to my wrist for the occasion.

The toughest SKIN comes to life in these tough yet slim designs, ready to make you shine from the office to the mountains. From casual to sporty and leather to silicone, for the Future Classics all the details count, and you will sure be ready to impress every minute of your day.

Introducing 8 new models

The new Skin Irony comes in 4 sets of 2 similar models. Minimalistic is key in this collection. You’ll notice the modest size of the 38 mm case which is only 5,8mm thick. Thanks to this it wears very comfortably on the wrist and you will hardly even notice wearing one at all. The metal case comes with a brushed or polished finish. Depending on the model the watch has a silicone or leather strap or a comfortable metal bracelet. 

Pictured above are the Skinblueiron (left) and Skinspring (right) both come with a smooth silicone strap. Below the Skindoree which is also available in black as the Skinalliage. This model comes with a synthetic leather strap and polished case.

 Skinnoiriron with a polished case and white dial next to it’s darker partner the Skinbrushed.

Two full metal models with a comfortable metal bracelet. Either in steel or steel with a gold coloured coating. On the left the Skinpole and Skinlingot which is the most expensive model at 175 euro.

Swatch Skinblueiron

The Swatch Skin Irony collection is already available and priced between 135 and 175 euro depending on the model.

For more info make sure to check out Swatch.com.

Swatch Skin Irony Image Gallery

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