Monday, January 29, 2018

The Chief Editor’s Choice: From the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5

DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles

And it comes to the Chief to make his selection from the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5. This is a no holds barred selection, with no attention paid to political correctness, or the need to please any brands. But a truthful selection based on true feelings, and why. So here are the top 5 marques which make the mark (pun intended, but order is random): Audemars Piguet RD#2, Greubel Forsey Différentiel d’Égalité, Ressence e-Crown, A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split and (surprise!) Cartier Révélation d’une Panthère.

Selection Criteria

Although we made some emphasis that Deployant will be report on all watches, for our the Geneva Shows Top 5 report, it turns out that all the watches are from within the SIHH. The selection criteria is based on innovation (meaning a new caliber and watch), as well as emotional beauty. The first criteria is objective and easy to quantify, but the second is personal.

If we allow some leeway on the first criteria, some other watches may find its way into this list. An example is the superbly executed and extremely beautiful De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels. The DB28 is stunning (we will review it in full soon), but its a refinish of an older movement which Denis Flageollet first created in 2014. Another may be the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, though it comes with a completely new movement, applying the first criteria strictly meant it misses the list as the design is a homage to the original of the 1960s. But nevertheless, it is a magnificent watch which we will review in full soon, and is one of the highlights of the SIHH. And there are others. Like the Singer Reimagined Track 1 Geneva Edition, which is not a new watch, as the movement has made its appearance in the Faberge Visionnaire Chronograph in Baselworld 2017, but Singer themselves revealed a standard edition in mid-2017, the Geneva Edition is merely an extension.

So without further ado, let’s begin…the Editor’s Choice of the Geneva Shows Top 5, in no particular order:

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

To the uninitiated, at first glance the AP Royal Oak RD#2 looks like any other Royal Oak…one with a Perpetual Calendar. Only when one examines the hefty platinum case does one realise that the 41mm watch is ultra thin. The world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar, to be precise. Both the movement and the watch fully encased breaks the previous record.

The thinnest automatic perpetual calendar prior to this was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5490 at 8.48mm case height, and the movement C.240Q measures 3.8mm high. The Audemars Piguet RD#2’s Royal Oak case comes in at 6.3mm high, and the movement is a scant 2.89mm thick. It is even thinner than the regular time only AP Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin which is 8.1mm high.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2: ultimate thinness in an automatic perpetual calendar watch.

 

But the innovation and technical wizardry which goes beyond the ultra slim aesthetics is also extremely interesting. And very challenging. AP describes in its literature that […]

The post The Chief Editor’s Choice: From the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.

Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong




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