Watches Appreciation And Resouces: January 2018

Wednesday, January 31, 2018

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Bell & Ross Vintage Original BRV126-BL-BE/SCA

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Review: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’

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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’

With the dust finally settled at the Palexpo post-SIHH 2018, it is time to take a more detailed look at the timepieces that have made their debut. Never failing to impress at SIHH is A. Lange & Söhne. The illustrious Saxon manufacture had presented several novelties at the fair this year, one of which was the 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’. The 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’ was conceived in memory of Walter Lange, the spiritual figurehead of the brand since its revival in 1990 who sadly passed away on the second day of SIHH last year at the age of 93. More than just a tribute piece, the watch also features an atypical, but interesting complication. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts surrounding the all-important 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’.

Walter Lange, photographed in Glashütte, circa 2010.

The case, dial, and hands

The 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’ comes in a case measuring 40.5 mm in diameter and 11.0 mm in thickness. Four different case materials will be offered: pink gold, white gold, yellow gold, and a piece unique stainless steel. The case is stock standard Lange, which is to say that it is austere in design but very handsomely finished. While the bezel and lugs are polished to a bright sheen, the case band is brushed for a nice contrast. Apart from the crown at the usual 3 o’clock spot, there is also a pusher at 2 o’clock on the flank of the case.

The 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’ comes in a standard casing of either pink, yellow or white gold. A piece unique in stainless steel will only be available through auction where proceeds go to charity.

Moving on to the dial, one can easily recognise that the watch is an 1815 model, with its inky Arabic numerals and railway-style minutes track. These dial design elements are inspired from old pocket watches created by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the brand’s founder. The dials in each version of the watch are made of solid silver. In the gold variants, the dials are argenté-coloured while in the special stainless steel edition, it is black enamelled. All the hands in the gold pieces – the hour, minute, central seconds and subsidiary seconds hands – are evenly flame-blued. They bring an energetic pop of colour to the clean silver dial and really stand out.

The inky black Arabic numerals and railway track minute scale are tell tale signs of a Lange timepiece from the 1815 family.

By now, you should be wondering why there are two seconds hands (if you haven’t already seen the watch). The two seconds hands don’t exactly function the same way. The one in the sub-dial at 6 o’clock moves in a sweeping motion, making 6 small steps as it advances from marker to marker; this is the hallmark of mechanical timepieces in general. On the other hand (pun not intended), the central seconds hand performs precise jumps from second […]

The post Review: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’ appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.

Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Frank Chuo

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Introducing the Schofield Telemark

To paraphrase a meme – Schofield, now there’s a name I’ve not heard in a while (on the pages of WWR). We have spoken about them before, and even reviewed some of their straps. However, even that was well more than a year ago. It’s not that they’ve not been worth watching (because I’ve kept tabs on them) – it just didn’t click for a writeup. Well, their most recent watch was just announced – the Schofield Telemark – and it became high time to get some focus on the brand.

Now, to my eye, the Schofield Telemark is very recognizable as being from the brand, primarily due to the case shape (when viewed in profile). It’s just very distinctive, and I’m glad to see that carried forward. Past that, however, there’s a lot to differentiate this watch from other models in the lineup.

For starters, this is the first white-dialed watch they’ve produced. Blue is my favorite color, of course, but white and grey dials definitely round out my top three choices for dial color these days. Second, this is the first time we’re seeing all numerals on the dial for marking the hours. Finally, the other major departure is the date window showing up between 4 and 5 o’clock.

No, the Schofield Telemark is not the first watch to do this, of course. Many watches with Japanese movements have this sort of placement, but it’s less common when you’re got the ETA 2824-2 ticking away inside. Why is that? Well, if for no other reason, the date wheel needs to be totally redone to get the numerals angled for legibility. You see, take a closer look. The date, even though in that angled position, still is showing in a vertical orientation. Nice little detail that, no?

Frankly, there are a lot of fun details on the Schofield Telemark. We’ve covered off on a few of them here, and there’s a list of items of interest down below. What you’ll really want to keep an eye out for is our hands-on review. Yes, that’s right – we’re working with the brand to get one of these in for review, and then we’ll give you a really nice rundown. schofieldwatchcompany.com

Watch Overview

Brand & Model: Schofield Telemark
Price: ~$ 4,265 in the US (£3,600 for those needing to deal with VAT)
Who we think it might be for: You’ve been holding out for a white dial from the brand
Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? All signs point to yes!
If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: With a white dial, I’d be curious to see what some translucent case finishes could do for a fun(ky) presentation
What spoke to me the most about this watch: Everything – something about the Schofield aesthetic clicks with me

Features, per Schofield

Fully numerated submarine dial
The word ‘Schofield’ replaces 9 minute marks on the chapter ring
The hour markers in the chapter ring are black anodised appliqués filled with Super-LumiNova C5
Date disk reprinted for horizontal readability at 4:30
All the parts of the hands and the windows line up when overlapping
The second hand tapers towards the tip and the counterpoise
The second hand counterpoise is filled with lume
The case has a nail rebate for pulling out the crown
The crown also has a groove for your nails to grip to pull out
The case has a slight radius on the outer edge of the bezel
The box is Osmo ash, the queen of English timbers

Tech Specs from Schofield

Case – Vapour-blasted stainless steel
Dimensions – 44mm diameter base, 42mm bezel, 15.1mm high
Weight – 134 grams with strap
Colour – Silver
Crown – Push in, machine finish stainless steel, engraved
Dial – White, luminescent applied markers Super-LumiNova C5
Hands – Laddered baton, Super-LumiNova C3
Movement – ETA 2824-2
Power reserve – 38 hours
Functions – Hours, minutes and seconds and date
Case back – Stainless steel, engraved with Jomfruland lighthouse
Crystal – Sapphire
Water resistance – 200m
Strap – Your choice
Strap bars – Stainless, vapour-blasted
Buckle – Brushed stainless steel, engraved
Serialisation – Sequential numbering
Warranty – 2 years
Box – Osmo ash

Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Patrick Kansa

Watches eBay auctions you should keep an eye on:

Skagen Men's 233XLTTM Stainless Steel Watch

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Michael Kors Womens MK3568 Kacie Bracelet Gift Set Crystal Stainless Steel Watch

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TW Steel Men's TW71 'Grandeur Diver' Chronograph Two-Tone Stainless Steel Watch

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Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Breitling Colt A7438811/BD45-152S

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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm – Super Accessible, Cool and Hand-Wound

Sometimes – yes, it does happen to us, watch snobs – we like to take a look at some watches that could properly be named “value propositions”. By that, we don’t mean only an accessible price but also an outstanding value for the money. What Swiss brand Hamilton will launch soon is just that: cool and historically relevant design, right proportions, mechanical movement (and hand-wound in addition to that) and very, very friendly priced… Meet the new Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm.

Article from: Monochrome Watches, by Brice Goulard

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Happenings: Jack Forster To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Special Edition SBGH263 Watch

As Baselworld 2018 approaches, one of the highlights of the upcoming watch trade show “mission” is to determine what new products our friends in Japan have been working on. At Grand Seiko one of the new timepieces will be a limited edition homage to the…

The article Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Special Edition SBGH263 Watch first appeared on aBlogtoWatch and was written by Ariel Adams.

Article from: aBlogtoWatch, by Ariel Adams

Monday, January 29, 2018

The Chief Editor’s Choice: From the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5

DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles

And it comes to the Chief to make his selection from the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5. This is a no holds barred selection, with no attention paid to political correctness, or the need to please any brands. But a truthful selection based on true feelings, and why. So here are the top 5 marques which make the mark (pun intended, but order is random): Audemars Piguet RD#2, Greubel Forsey Différentiel d’Égalité, Ressence e-Crown, A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split and (surprise!) Cartier Révélation d’une Panthère.

Selection Criteria

Although we made some emphasis that Deployant will be report on all watches, for our the Geneva Shows Top 5 report, it turns out that all the watches are from within the SIHH. The selection criteria is based on innovation (meaning a new caliber and watch), as well as emotional beauty. The first criteria is objective and easy to quantify, but the second is personal.

If we allow some leeway on the first criteria, some other watches may find its way into this list. An example is the superbly executed and extremely beautiful De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels. The DB28 is stunning (we will review it in full soon), but its a refinish of an older movement which Denis Flageollet first created in 2014. Another may be the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, though it comes with a completely new movement, applying the first criteria strictly meant it misses the list as the design is a homage to the original of the 1960s. But nevertheless, it is a magnificent watch which we will review in full soon, and is one of the highlights of the SIHH. And there are others. Like the Singer Reimagined Track 1 Geneva Edition, which is not a new watch, as the movement has made its appearance in the Faberge Visionnaire Chronograph in Baselworld 2017, but Singer themselves revealed a standard edition in mid-2017, the Geneva Edition is merely an extension.

So without further ado, let’s begin…the Editor’s Choice of the Geneva Shows Top 5, in no particular order:

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

To the uninitiated, at first glance the AP Royal Oak RD#2 looks like any other Royal Oak…one with a Perpetual Calendar. Only when one examines the hefty platinum case does one realise that the 41mm watch is ultra thin. The world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar, to be precise. Both the movement and the watch fully encased breaks the previous record.

The thinnest automatic perpetual calendar prior to this was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5490 at 8.48mm case height, and the movement C.240Q measures 3.8mm high. The Audemars Piguet RD#2’s Royal Oak case comes in at 6.3mm high, and the movement is a scant 2.89mm thick. It is even thinner than the regular time only AP Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin which is 8.1mm high.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2: ultimate thinness in an automatic perpetual calendar watch.

But the innovation and technical wizardry which goes beyond the ultra slim aesthetics is also extremely interesting. And very challenging. AP describes in its literature that […]

The post The Chief Editor’s Choice: From the Geneva Watch Shows Top 5 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.

Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Peter Chong

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Hands-on: Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Moonphase

Most moonphase complications don’t take center stage on the dial, probably because they serve such little practical purpose in modern life. But that’s a shame, since the moonphase is one of the most enchanting complications and hiding it away in a subdial is no way to launch a journey to the stars. Christopher Ward seem to agree, so they put a big silver moon at the center of the new C1 Grand Malvern Moonphase. The subtly dished craters of our celestial neighbor great you each time you look down to check the time.

Looking a lot like the Arnold Son HM Perpetual Moon, but costing a lot less, the C1 Grand Malvern Moonphase isn’t a completely new watch. Like the rest of Malvern line, it has received the C1 facelift—Arabic numerals, new logo, new case, new fonts—but here the changes are more subtle. Or, perhaps, the details matter less here because the moonphase is the same and it is still the center of attention.

Good for 128 years of perpetual lunar orbit, the calibre JJ04 is a modified version of the ETA 2836-2, adapted for lunar duty. While the moonphase will run for more than a century, the mainspring will give out after 38 hours in the watch box. This will need to be your daily driver or you’ll need a winder to get the most out of the movement. If you keep it wound, the 3D-stamped, semi-matte nickel galvanic moon will turn on a deep blue disk, speckled with a field of stars. It would be nice if the stars were lumed, but this watch does not glow in the dark. Hey, there’s one use for the moonphase: now you know on which nights you’ll be able to read your watch outside without a light. But even in low light, the silvery moon really popped against the all-blue dial on my tester, transforming a standard dress watch into something captivating.

The only other complication here is a date window at 3:00 (moved from 6:00 on the previous iteration). The font is a modern sans serif and although it sits in the now-familiar dished date window we’ve seen on all the C1s, the font seems larger than average, which gives the watch a more bespoke look.

The dial can be either white or blue, but for my money the inky depth of the blue dial matching the starscape of the moon disk is the way to go. That dark dial coupled with a blue shell cordovan leather strap and Bader deployant make a knock-out dress watch package. The case sits a bit high off the wrist for my preference at 12.35 mm, but the svelte lines of the C1 case diminish the wrist presence enough to keep the whole package stylishly subtle. christopherward.com

Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Moonphase