DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
Parmigiani Fleurier released the latest Ovale Pantographe with a new dial at SIHH 2017. Similar in shape and movement, the watch is essentially the same as its predecessor, apart from the new facial upgrade. The new Ovale is available with a guilloche dial and gold movement.
Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe Guilloche Barley Grain Dial
The Case
The case for the new Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe 2017 limited-edition watches is available in either 18k white or 18k rose gold. The distinctive case design bears the iconic lugs design that pragmatically extends from the case, while keeping the distance from the strap to the case small. The watch measures 37.3mm wide by 45mm tall and 12.5mm thick and is water resistant to 30 meters.
The Dial and Hands
For starters, the most obvious difference lies in the dial. The new Guilloche style dial is as its name suggests a Guilloche patterned dial, as opposed to the previous lacquered dial. The hour markers are also in a different shade, with applied indices. While the previous edition released in 2013 had blue hour markers and hands, the new 2017 edition Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe uses a more subtle black. The real course of debate with the watch lies in the methods used to make the guilloche dial. While we were hoping that the dial was made from a rose engine, as it turns out it is in fact a stamped dial. Contrary to popular knowledge, there is in fact greater value in a machine engraved dial rather than a stamped dial, given the craft involved in creating the machine. Think Audemars Piguet’s tapisserie dial or a more relative Breguet guilloche.
The hands remain the same as the earlier version, which telescopes to trace an oval with its outer ends. Each hand is made from titanium to a tolerance of less than 4 microns. And flame blued. The hands are very thin and light, and very fragile, and thus have to be assembled by hand. Both the hour and minute hands are each made of six pieces which are held together by six rivets. The specific shape of the pieces allow the hands to expand and contract.
The design is taken from a pocket watch made by Jardon & Stedmann in about early 1800. The watch was restored by the Parmigiani Restoration department and Michel Parmigiani got the idea to make a watch using this concept.
The Movement
The Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe uses the PF111 movement; but this time upgraded to full gold. Noticeably, the movement shares a higher finesse in finishing, with more traditional Geneve stripes and has an overall softer touch, almost artisanal quality to it. […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Chester Lau
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