DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
We look at two new releases this year, both in the same category, the automatic three hands and date. Two brands, one Japanese and the other Swiss. One of them is the press favorite and wildly worshipped Grand Seiko, and the other is Jaeger-LeCoultre, a master maison with hundreds of movements to its name.
1 on 1: Comparing the Grand Seiko SBGR305 and the Jaeger -LeCoultre Master Control Date
Since their release in Baselworld and SIHH, the Grand Seiko SBGR305 and the Jaeger leCoultre Master Control Date both enjoyed their fair share of good reviews. The Grand Seiko SBGR305 is the recreation piece limited to 968 pieces. And between that and the 1960s recreation, we picked the Grand Seiko SBGR305 for the comparison, given that it is non-homage, has a date feature and is overall closer in features to the Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The Grand Seiko SBGR305, limited edition of 968 pieces.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre is significant as the mais0n’s latest release of affordable retro models. Adopting a Tudor, Longines type business strategy, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a series of three new Master Control models with two-tone sector dials. The new stainless steel models include the Master Control Date, Master Control Geographic with worldtimer complication and the Master Control Chronograph.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 8.5 mm in height.
The value narrative – the changing tides of price
Grand Seiko has always been seen as the value buy. The honest Japanese brand that makes value for money watches. A country branding brainwash, imported from the auto industry. After all, who could resist quality in-house movements, beautiful dial and case finishing, that is priced lower than that other Swiss brand ETA-base monstrosity.
But how much longer can this narrative hold?
With the latest move to remove the Seiko branding, to let the “Grand Seiko” line run as a brand, prices for Grand Seiko watches are predicted to increase to match its new upscale image. The Grand Seiko SBGR305, limited edition of 968 pieces, cased in titanium, is priced at US$ 7200. So it seems, Grand Seiko is moving from the value category, to the premium category.
Conversely, Jaeger-LeCoultre, is embracing the value notion. Perhaps picking up from the success of Tudor and Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre is targeting the more accessible value line by lowering price points. The Jaeger leCoultre Master Control Date retails at US$ 5700, 10% less than its predecessor Master control date priced at US$ 6350.
Cased in brilliant hard titanium, the watch measures Diameter 40.5mm×Thickness 13.6mm.
Sacrificing thinness for power – Should a dress watch be thicker than 10mm?
No offence to Grand Seiko die-hards, but the rhetorical question has to be asked. Should a dress watch be thicker than 10mm? Grand Seiko watches with the 9S calibers, are mostly if not all above 12 mm in thickness. Understandably, the movement has a 72 hours power reserve and is more on the thick side, but this thickness on a dress watch is confusing.
We have heard variations of exasperation from many, which mostly sung like “why can’t Seiko make a thinner case, or a thinner movement?”
Conversely, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, measures 39 mm in diameter and 8.5 mm in height. A difference […]
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Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Chester Lau
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