Automatic Flyback Chronograph Seiko 7016-8000

One of the most puzzling watches in my collection. I always learn something new about this model as I research it, trying to put all the bits together. Yet the full story remains unclear. Therefore, this article will be slightly different than my other reviews on vintage pieces.

Even after devoting exponentially more time to digging out information on this Seiko 7016 there is still a lot I’m missing. So, I decided to publish the ongoing results of my findings. I hope there are some other collectors that might shed more light on this intriguing model. Feel free to correct or add any information you have on it.

Seiko 7016 Flyback Chronograph

Seiko 7016A in time perspective

Let’s tune in on the historical context first. Seiko introduced first automatics with 6139 caliber in May 1969 (click here for our Seiko 6139 versus Zenith El Primero article). Next caliber 6138 was presented a year after in 1970 with a 12-hour counter on top of a 30 elapsed minutes counter. It was only two years later, in 1972, that Seiko showed the world the 7016A caliber, considered by watchmakers as one of the most technically interesting calibers from Seiko.

Clear facts about Seiko 7016A

The 7016A combines watchmaking originality and fine engineering from the Daini factory. Not only does it come with a 12-hour recorder but look at the sub-register. It is easy to overlook and mistake it for some simple 30-minutes chronograph. But if you look at sub-dial at the 6 o’clock mark closer, you will see two concentrically rotating hands. The bright orange one counting 30 or 60 elapsed minutes, the black one below counting hours up to 12. Another detail I particularly like is that the sub-register hand doesn’t jump from minute to minute but moves constantly. Another considerable difference from first Seiko 6138/6139.

Beware of color play

If you start researching the Seiko 7016-8000 you may get a bit confused when you see the sub-dial minute hand not only in orange, but yellow too. When I was hunting down my piece, I saw no other apparent dial difference except this color mix. Everything became clearer when I bought the one with the orange hand. It was only then that I realized it simply changes color in different light conditions. I felt so tricked that I went back and studied all the ref pictures I downloaded over the 4 months before. I would bet real money that all those hands were really yellow. Well, now I assume they were not. One of the most misleading, yet highly believable optical metamorphoses.

Flyback on 7016 got me hooked

I pushed the Seiko7016-8000 higher up on my shopping list the moment I learned that its chrono has a flyback function. It works as usual – the top pusher starts and stops the chronograph and the lower pusher resets it. If you reset it without stopping the chronograph, the chrono immediately continues measuring time. Factoring in the previous specialities, you already get quite rich a package for such a decent watch. But we do not stop here. The Seiko 7016-8000 also comes with a quick-set date, adjustable by pulling and turning the crown out to the first position. Changing the date mechanism feels a bit shivery but it works reliably.

Other Seiko hacks

If you are still not hooked, I will feed you two other details to love. The crown is gently sunk and leveled nicely with the watch case. In addition to a date display, theSeiko 7016-8000 also has an indicator for the day of the week. Change-over system is bi-lingual and available in two variants – English/Japanese or English/Roman numerals. Applause. To change the day of the week you have to unusually, but comfortably push the crown down against the case.

Jewels count game

Maybe you noticed there is no information on jewels right on the dial. Although it is a top-notch movement with a complex set of features, it has the least number of stones. 17 jewels to be exact, compared to 23 jewels in 7018 calibers. From a construction point of view, the compact wheel train deserves some attention. „Rather than redesign the main plate to accommodate intermediate wheels and levers, Seiko chose to make changes to the wheels themselves, “ explains respected watchmaker for vintage pieces Richard Askham from the UK.

„The third wheel consists of two separate wheels on a single axle, each driven by a different pinion. The upper gear behaves just like a regular third wheel in that it transfers power from the center wheel to the fourth wheel. The lower gear is used only when the chronograph is engaged, transferring power from the chronograph center wheel to the minute recording wheel.“ 

Riddle #1 – Case of Seiko 7016-8000

Well, that was on the clear part of my Seiko 7016-8000 story. Now the slightly foggy questions come up. Let’s start with the case. I found 2 different executions of the case. One with more rounded edges like mine and a second version with sharp edges. My initial thought was that the sharp one is the only original and mine will be the same, but highly polished. But seeing more and more rounded cases available, many being referred to as originals, I started to pay more attention to it. As you can see on the detailed model to model comparison, the casing on my watch at 9 o’clock is much wider and thicker than on the sharp one that I would consider a 100% known original.

If my Seiko 7016-8000 was just a polished example of the sharp one, there should be less mass visible on the highlighted areas, not vice-versa. This comparison doesn’t say how heavily polished my Seiko was, but it definitely suggests there might be more casing options available for this watch type. Due to the low contrast between polished and brushed surfaces, I do believe my example might be lightly polished.

A simple question arises – hey dude, did you look into old catalogues? You bet I did. I can teach you how to say CATALOGUE in 20 languages. However, the Seiko 7016-8000 does not seem broadly presented or advertised. I found only one screenshot from an old Italian catalogue I am not able to date, but it clearly shows the 7016-8000 in a white version with doubled hands in the sub-dial.

A brief look into the 1976 and 1977 catalogue might help with the watch case issue too. There are two case versions of the ref 7018 available, one case close next to the other. This leads me to assume that similar case options might be available for the 7016-8000 too. With clear addendum that the sharp-edged case is more difficult to come across.

Riddle #2 – Seiko 7016-8000/8001

90% of all the models I saw carried a 7016-8001 engraving on the case back. Only a few examples, mine including, have 7016-8000 on it. Confirmed by multiple Seiko collectors, we believe there were no differences in those models. 8000 or 8001 numbering would just refer to the geographic area the watch was sold in. I still haven’t successfully determined which region it represents though.

Riddle #3 – Seiko 7016-8000 bracelet

I will spare all the contemplations here. There are two serious candidates for bracelet fit, both believed to be original and probably varied based on the destination market. Solid link Stelux is present on two pieces we consider original examples. The bracelet type with Z022 end links as seen on my watch can be considered 100% original to the watch too as it is clearly visible on the screenshot from the old Italian Seikocatalogue.

Wearing Seiko fly back 7016

With a modest 38 mm diameter, this 21.600vph Seiko wears quite small but is comfy and offers a heavy feature arsenal. No compromise is necessary when it comes to the manipulation. Morning setup is fast, including no additional tolling such as a toothpick to get it set. One quick slap for the easily gliding rotor is enough to wake up the automatic heart. Pressing the top chrono pusher is definitely a new experience. The same with springing feeling when the crown sinks under your finger into the -1 position and back when setting the weekday.

I consider the purple/blue dial with red tones (notice also red tip on central chrono hand) more charming than the more usual and better legible white/grey version. If you like the movement but aren’t sure about the design, you can look after the single-colored 7016-7000 with a tachymeter scale or the square 7016-5010/5020 versions.

Final thoughts

Why isn’t the Seiko7016-8000/8001 more sought after? I don’t know, I don’t mind. Good news is you don’t need to sell your kidney to get your hands on this fascinating hidden gem. But what makes me wonder is why such an advanced piece hasn’t been discussed more vividly. I do admit that the design doesn’t punch collectors in the face and might be easily interchangeable with ten other Seiko models. But to me, it screams – full pack feature set hiding specialities such as the flyback, stacked registers and a day/date system put together with great engineering virtuosity. All for a few hundred euros? Hell, yeah!

 

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Introducing: The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback In Rose Gold

At a sizeable 43mm, the curved lines of the case mimic the design language Bucherer used in the ’60s. It’s sized for 2019, but exudes the spirit of yesteryear. The convex crystal rounds out the retro vibe, with mushroom pushers to tie the aesthetic together. A red central chronograph seconds hand and bright silver “panda” totalizer sub-dials restrain the straight sophistication of a rose gold case nicely, and a red “FLYBACK” at six o’clock is a not-so-subtle touch that lets folks know that this isn’t just a watch with a pretty case. 

Under the hood you’ll find a caliber CFB 1970  automatic movement finished in contrasting patterns: circular-grain and Geneva stripes. The column-wheel movement features a 42-hour power reserve and you’ll be able to ogle the details through a display caseback. 

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Schwarz Etienne – The ‘White Label’ Manufacture

Even now, almost two decades since the Swatch Group announced their intention to cease supplying their rivals with ETA calibres, it seems the world’s most famous movement manufacturer is still the number one choice for most small brands.

But if we dig beneath the surface we find that there are plenty of independent maisons to choose from. The bulk of which were founded or massively expanded in the wake of the Swatch Group’s expected departure from the market. Somewhat surprisingly, however, there are a few that have been surviving and thriving for a very long time indeed.

Schwarz Etienne

One such manufacturer is Schwarz Etienne. A one-stop-shop for calibre creation, SE has been beavering away in La-Chaux-de-Fonds since 1902, riding out the waves of the 20th century to find itself atop a crest in 2019.

Not only does Schwarz Etienne have more than a century of uninterrupted experience under its belt, but their accessibility as a movement supplier is also a huge lure for independents. Longevity in our industry often results in companies developing an isolationist streak. The fact that a Maison of SE’s quality is still willing to work with ‘rival’ brands speaks volumes of how they see the role of a manufacturing brand in a sustainable ecosystem these days.

Chanel and Dunhill

Founded at the dawn of mankind’s most industrious century by a husband and wife duo, the company originally had several brand names under its control, creating movements for Venus, Alpha, Sultana Le Phare, and Astin among others.

Word of their talents soon spread. Huge brands such as Chanel and Dunhill employed the services of Schwarz Etienne. The sons of Paul Arthur Schwarz and Olga Etienne eventually took over their parents’ company in 1940. The boys oversaw an international expansion as the company grew throughout Europe and, eventually, Asia.

The company reached its apex during the sixties, a decade before the onset of the quartz crisis. Having rolled with the punches of the seventies and early eighties, Schwarz Etienne began producing watches under its own name in the mid-eighties.

The Roswell

Today, under the ownership of Rafaello Radichhi – a local businessman who purchased the company in 2007 – the brand is known for mechanical flair, stand-out aesthetics, and the fact they are willing to work with smaller brands looking off the beaten track for a high-quality supplier that wants to be part of a disruptive endeavour.

Were it not for their CEO Mauro Ergemini’s creative vision, exactly what Schwarz Etienne are able to offer not just end consumers, but also other brands might not be so obvious. The own-label collection of watches by SE is a perfect platform to showcase the movements that are available separately, as well as the hugely dynamic design of which the brand is capable of.

Each of the in-house models is a canvas for expression and an advert for a possibility. My personal favourite is the Roswell. Not only because of the discreet vibrant styling but also thanks to the many personal touches courtesy of Ergemini. The rock on the back of the Voyage model actually comes from a piece of meteor debris found by Ergemini during a Swiss mountain trek on the Matterhorn.

And let’s not forget the high-end horological nouse!

High-End

Presenting their most unusual and ambitious movements in such an arresting package is one part bold and one part savvy. This is an uncompromising design that accentuates the novel movement architecture. The ISE100.11 movement is one of the brands most complex. To highlight the excellent manufacturing standards, the movement’s innards have been flipped (ISE stands for Irreversible Schwarz Etienne). This means the micro-rotor weight is visible from the front (at 9 o’clock), and the balance is afforded a clear and uncluttered view.

There is a bright, inventive, and organic quality to the Schwarz Etienne Roswell (particularly the 08 model). It reminds me of a sharp and stylish Saville Row tailored jacket with a bold coloured lining. Add to this the after sales abilities of any in-house manufacture to guarantee repair of any watch, and you have an incredible value proposition for the end consumer, and a powerful potential partnership for a fellow independent brand.

The fact that a modern company is not only engaged with the needs of their industry peers, but also producing calibres that are desirable products in themselves provides a fantastic boost in confidence for the watch-curious to venture into the independent realm.

Ode au Printemps Retrograde Tourbillon

Without this open-door policy, many independent brands that specialise in branding, story-creation, and design rather than in-house manufacturing, would be forced to approach either large, somewhat soulless Swiss movement makes, or outsource production to Asia.

The existence of marques like Schwarz Etienne can only serve to light a fire under the competition and keep the local watchmaking community sustainable, which is good news for everybody.

This white label manufacturer has the pedigree and know-how to boost a whole segment of the market. 117 years into their history and the company has found the formula for success in the modern day. Here’s hoping they continue their good work as they look to expand their reach around the globe.

More information via the Schwartz Etienne website.

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Happenings: Swiss Watchmaker Turned Artist To Exhibit In New York

“Magaldi’s paintings are rooted in a precision reminiscent of architectural draftsmanship, while his sculptures explore the jarring juxtaposition of a horological microcosm with the monumentality of massive wood sculptures,” says Veronica Constable, Director at BOCCARA ART Brooklyn. “Merging graffiti and traditional painting techniques, Magaldi is able to combine two seemingly disparate art forms into one cohesive body of work.”

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Speedy Tuesday – An Overview of all Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI Models

This year commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Moonlanding. For Speedmaster fans, this means that it will be a big year for their beloved watch.

Omega released Apollo XI editions since 1969, the first being the famous gold Speedmaster Professional with burgundy bezel, massive gold dial with onyx markers and gold bracelet. Only 1014 of these have been produced, of which a number have been presented to the Apollo astronauts, President Nixon and a few more important people who played a role during NASA’s space program. Again in 1980, when Omega introduced a gold Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI that was numbered (320 pieces in total, of which 20 were in white gold). However, you could say that Omega made these Apollo XI limited editions a recurring event starting in 1989, when it was the 20th anniversary of the Moon landing.

Every 5 years there’s a Speedmaster Apollo XI to be introduced. In this article, we’ll show you all the Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI models thus far, before Omega will introduce to us their Speedmaster Apollo XI 50th anniversary model. The rumour machine is running already in its highest gear, we can’t wait to see them introduced!

Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI

On July 20th 1969, the Apollo 11 Lunar Module put astronauts Neil Armstrong and Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin on the surface of the Moon. On July 21st, at 2:56 UTC, Armstrong set foot on the Moon and spoke his famous words. Not much later, Buzz Aldrin followed him. On his wrist, the Omega Speedmaster Professional. From that moment on, the ‘Moonwatch’.

NASA received Speedmaster reference 105.012 and 145.012 watches from Omega after the official certification for use during extra-vehicular activities by astronauts. Since a few years, it is known that Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin wore a Speedmaster reference 105.012 (click here). The first Speedmaster on the surface of the Moon. Legend has it that Neil Armstrong left his Speedmaster (also a 105.012) on board of the Lunar Module as the (Bulova) board clock malfunctioned. Aldrin’s watch later disappeared (in 1970), when it was sent off to the Smithsonian museum. Michael Collins was wearing a Speedmaster 145.012.

The 105.012 and 145.012 references were used during the entire Apollo program. In 1978, when the 145.022 was also certified for the later Space Shuttle missions. Read our extensive write-up on how the Speedmaster became the Moonwatch in this article, all verified by Omega’s museum in Bienne.

1969 Apollo XI Gold Commemorative Edition

In the meanwhile, Omega started already with their first commemorative edition (numbered, not limited): the 18 carat yellow gold Speedmaster Professional. Story has it that only 1,014 pieces made of which #1 was offered to President Nixon and #2 was offered to Vice President Spiro Agnew. Both declined the watch though, for compliance reasons. During a banquet on the 25th of November 1969, 19 watches were offered to the NASA astronauts. Later on, other astronauts who couldn’t join the banquet or who did later missions (than 1969) also received their gold piece. This watch has the engraving “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time.” A quote that Jim Lovell also gave during a Q&A session at the Speedmaster Event in Houston in May 2015.

There seems to be a bit of uncertainty whether Apollo 13’s Jack Swigert and Fred Haise received one, but I’ve been told by Omega that they were offered one later on as well. However, they do not appear in any overviews of the watches given to astronauts. A number of watches (with another type of engraving) went to some Swiss managers of Omega and Lemania at the time. Besides the models that went were offered to the White House, astronauts and a couple of other representatives, the rest went to Omega retailers around the world. With a different type of engraving of course. We talked about astronaut Wally Schirra’s and Ken Mattingly’s gold Speedmaster Apollo XI watches here and here.

1980 Speedmaster Apollo XI – Or Is It Space Shuttle?

It is actually both. Introduced in 1979 but finally, delivery to the market in 1980 (and onwards) are the numbered editions of the Speedmaster Apollo XI in yellow and white gold. 20 pieces in white gold and 300 pieces in yellow gold. In a special black box and together with a letter from Stafford (and some kind of ‘brochure’) on the space shuttle missions. In fact, the black certificate that came with this watch, spoke about this watch commemorating the Apollo XI landing in 1969 and the re-qualification of the Speedmaster for the Space Shuttle missions that would start in 1981. Most of these watches went to the German market (all of the white gold models and about 50% of the yellow gold watches) starting 1980 till mid-to-end 1980s. The gold Speedmaster was in the Omega brochures at least till 1987. The yellow gold version has reference BA345.0802 and the white gold model has BC345.0802. When I met General Thomas Stafford in 2014 during a dinner with Omega, he was wearing his 1980 Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI in yellow gold. I wrote about that encounter here.

These Speedmaster references are also the very first to have display backs that show the caliber 861L movement. This L-version of the caliber 861 had a ‘Luxury’ finish, and extra jewels. A more in-depth article on this very rare gold Speedmaster can be found here.

1989 Speedmaster Apollo XI 20th Anniversary Editions

In 1989, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Apollo XI 20th anniversary model. A stainless steel Speedmaster Professional that came in a special (wooden) box, an extra black velcro strap, a 20th anniversary badge and had an engraving on the case band.

Image by Darren of VintageSpeedmaster.com

This engraving was either Apollo XI 1969 (worldwide 4000 pieces only but unnumbered), xxxx/2000 Apollo XI 1969 (USA 2000 pieces) or xxx /250 Apollo XI 1969 – 1989 (Germany 250 pieces). According to Moonwatch Only and Omega’s Journey Through Time, the 250 pieces for the German market were delivered as ‘head only’. That means there was no strap or bracelet delivered with these pieces. The Omega distributor or retailers took care of this themselves. The other 6000 pieces came with the much sought-after reference 1450 bracelet. A review of this limited edition Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI ref. 3590 watch can be found here.

Image via Uhr Forum.

1994 Speedmaster Apollo XI 25th Anniversary Editions

The five-year intervals I mentioned at the beginning of this article started in 1994. For the 25th anniversary of the Moon landing and the role of the Speedmaster, Omega introduced another limited edition Speedmaster Apollo XI model. This particular one was limited to 2500 pieces and also featured the engraved case band, showing ‘Apollo XI 1969 – 1994’. In fact, besides the stainless steel watches like the 20th anniversary model of 1989, Omega also introduced a limited edition of 500 pieces in white gold and a run of 50 numbered pieces in platinum. The platinum watches were skeletonized by Armin Strom.

The stainless steel Speedmaster Apollo XI has reference 3591.50 and came either with the much appraised 1479 bracelet or a leather strap. A bit of a hair puller if I may so myself, but it looks very good on the Speedmaster and tapers nicely towards the clasp.

Image by Kringkilly / OmegaForums.net

Like the 20th anniversary, the watch comes in a nice wooden box and some extras. According to Moon Watch Only, these watches were also delivered with a grey leather box with ‘The First Watch Worn On The Moon 1969 – 1994’ inscription on the inside. The caseback of the 1994 version is also slightly different from the 1989 model, as it now came with an additional engraving ‘Limited Edition xxxx / 2500).

Image by Kringkilly / OmegaForums.net

Then there used to be a limited run of 999 pieces for the Italian market. Little is known about this reference 3592.50 version (with sapphire case back). Other than that it has the caliber 863 movement and a small engraving on the case band stating xxx / 999.

A while ago (here, in December 2014) we already wrote about the white gold Speedmaster Apollo XI limited edition of 500 pieces. We took pictures of the watch that is in the Omega Museum in Bienne, as you can see above. A beautiful white gold case, with silver-grey dial and silver hands. The case band reads Apollo XI 1969 – 1994 like the stainless steel model and the caseback is transparent and showing the caliber 864 movement. This is a variation on the caliber 861 movement (rhodium plated), but with a chronometer rating. This white gold limited edition has reference number 3192.30 for the version with a full white gold bracelet and 3692.30 for the model as pictured above.

1999 Speedmaster Apollo XI 30th Anniversary Edition

A bit of a boring limited edition, only to be noticed by collectors by the specially engraved caseback. The rest of the watch was similar to the reference 3570.50 that was in production at the time. This 1999 Speedmaster Apollo XI model had reference 3560.50 and was limited to 9999 pieces. To make it somewhat more lively, I’ve put the watch next to a model of the Moon Buggy. In the background, you see the original certificate that came with this reference.

In 2013 I called it a stealth Speedmaster Professional limited edition, as it goes easily unnoticed until you see the caseback. This watch came in a black leather box with a certificate of authenticity. The caseback has the ‘Hello Houston, tranquillity base here. The Eagle has landed.’ The famous words were spoken by Neil Armstrong. Below, the exact date and time of the landing and the unique number of the watch. In the center, the Apollo XI mission patch medallion. This reference 3560.50 came with the then standard bracelet, reference 1498. This reference was the first of the Apollo XI anniversary editions to use the caliber 1861 movement.

2004 Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary Edition

Compared to the 1999 version, the Speedmaster Apollo XI watch that commemorated the 35th anniversary of the Moon landing, was something very different. The dial seems to have been inspired by the limited edition of 300 pieces that Omega made one year earlier, for the Japanese department store called Mitsukoshi. The only difference with the dial of the Mitsukoshi, is that the date of the Moon landing is printed on there (in red). This reference, 3569.31 was limited to 3500 pieces only.

Not only the Panda dial was something different from the regular Moonwatch, also the caseback is very interesting. Like the 2003 Snoopy Award model, the caseback of the Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th anniversary shows a graphic. This model came with a black box which has the Apollo XI mission patch on the inside and a certificate of the authentication. Originally, this model came on a reference 1998 bracelet but the images I show you here have the watch on a leather Omega OEM strap. This Speedmaster Apollo XI limited edition also used the calibre 1861 movement.

You will find our in-depth articles on this Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th anniversary model here and here.

2009 Speedmaster Apollo XI 40th Anniversary Editions

In 2009 Omega decided to come up with something in precious metal again as well. Besides the stainless steel Speedmaster Apollo XI 40th anniversary edition reference 311.30.42.30.01.002 they also introduced a very limited run of the same model in platinum (reference 311.90.42.30.01.001). The stainless steel version was limited to 7969 pieces while the platinum version was limited to only 69 pieces.

Interesting enough, even though we are talking about a relatively high number of watches from a recent production year, the supply on these in the pre-owned market is rather limited.

The stainless steel model has the Apollo XI mission patch on the subdial at 9 o’clock, in sterling silver. You also received a large sterling silver medallion in the big black box that came with this Speedmaster Apollo XI limited edition. The platinum model has the medallion at 9 o’clock in yellow gold and you also would receive a yellow gold coin with this model.

Image by Darren

The caseback of the Apollo XI 40th anniversary has a beautiful bas relief medallion of the Apollo XI mission patch. This model uses the caliber 1861 movement. The bracelet on this watch is the reference 1958 (links with screws).

The platinum model came with a yellow gold medallion on the caseback, giving it an interesting contrast. The weight of this platinum limited edition was 248 grams. At the time, the retail price of the platinum model was $135.000 USD.

Image by Darren

We did an in-depth article on the stainless steel version as well as on the platinum version.

2014 Speedmaster Apollo XI 45th Anniversary Edition

The most recent Speedmaster Apollo XI anniversary edition is the one from 2014. Perhaps also the most unusual one, besides the 1969 18 ct gold numbered edition. The 45th anniversary edition is made of titanium and has a Sedna gold bezel.

One of the first things to notice is the dial. The logo and wording have not been printed like we are used to, but it is all made of 1 piece and treated with black PVD. The dial was created using a special laser which created the nice looking dial by removing all material surrounding the logo, model name, sub dial numerals, minute and hour markers.

This Speedmaster Apollo XI limited edition reference 311.62.42.30.06.001 was limited to 1969 pieces only, matching the year of the lunar landing. The list price was 5900 Euro if I am not mistaken. However, it was rapidly sold out.

It is an awkward fellow, but it is a much loved and praised piece amongst collectors. It came on the Omega NATO strap (also introduced that year) which wears a bit thick but looks awesome.

The titanium caseback is very close to the regular Moonwatch one but has a special engraving for the Apollo 11 45th Anniversary and the unique number. A fun fact is that you could easily equip this model with a Speedmaster bracelet by using the titanium one from the X-33.

We wrote an in-depth article on this Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 45th Anniversary model here.

Other Apollo XI models and Some Thoughts

The Others

Omega also introduced the display back for the stainless steel Moonwatch. At the time, this was the Speedmaster Professional reference 345.0808. This model also had the Apollo XI engraving but wasn’t a commemorative edition. Later on, this reference became the reference 3592.50. After 1995, the Apollo XI inscription disappeared on this reference. We wrote about the 3592.50 featuring the decorated caliber 863 movement in this article.

Reference 3592.50, Image by Pascal R.

In 1997, Omega also released these Mission Cases. In total, 50 of these suitcases were made, containing 22 mission patch Speedmasters, a ’57 re-edition model and a spare caliber 1861 movement. 10 of these cases weren’t for sale, but for show purposes only. One of these watches had the Apollo XI mission patch on the 9 o’clock sub dial. Besides 50 of these watches in those big white mission cases, Omega also made another 100 – 150 (unknown) of 21 of these mission patch models for regular sale. The Apollo 13 model wasn’t produced extra, as this one was already sold separately in 1995 (999 pieces). An article about this mission patch Apollo XI model can be found here.

Image by Darren

Some Thoughts

This article has been published before in 2017, but since 2019 is the year that Omega will celebrate the Moon landing with the Speedmaster Apollo XI 50th anniversary, I thought it would be a good idea to update this overview a bit and show all Apollo XI models they did so far.

The Speedmaster Professional Apollo XI from 1969, the reference BA145.022-69, has become a very sought-after piece and the thought that Omega might do something in precious metal this year again, drives Speedy enthusiasts nuts. We can be sure though, that Omega will introduce an Apollo XI commemorative edition in steel with a friendlier price tag than a watch in precious metal. What we do know for sure, is that Omega is saving up their caliber 321 for a different model. Omega clearly stated during the official Speedy Tuesday get-together in Biel earlier this year, that the Apollo XI 50th anniversary will not have this movement. This message upset some of the Speedmaster fans, but I would say that perhaps we should wait first to see what Omega will come up with before we start complaining on social media and forums (although that seems to be the trend these days).

Since Omega will not be present at Baselworld, but presenting some of their novelties at the (Swatch Group) Time to Move event in May, we don’t exactly know when they will do the Apollo XI introductions. We will be watching our inboxes for more news (and saving up meanwhile).

More information via the official Omega website.

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