New Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono – An Introduction (with live pictures)

For years now, there’s the trend in the watch industry to introduce watches inspired by the brand’s heritage. These watches are based on vintage watches with an updated design, technical specifications, and often have a larger size. It often results in a popular watch among collectors and enthusiasts. This has to do a lot with their looks that people often find “familiar”. Many different brands follow this trend, and in this case, we are talking about the new Hamilton (Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono).

The original Hamilton panda chronograph. Photo courtesy of https://ift.tt/2PT8Tuk

Hamilton Intra-Matic

If you are familiar with Hamilton you might remember that last year they released a strikingly similar model. The Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 was technically the same watch with a reverse panda dial. As like that timepiece, this is also based on a 1968 model from Hamilton. Obviously, the size is larger to give it a more contemporary look at 40mm. The main design features like the pump pushers, the tachymeter print on the dial or the shape of the indexes are identical though. Hamilton is known to have a great eye and pick just the right timepieces from their archives to revive. Just think of the €420 Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. We talked about that earlier when the watch dropped. It became an overnight sensation due to its mechanical winding movement, affordable price, and true vintage look. This article, however, is about the Intra-Mati Auto Chrono.

Elegantly 1960’s

As I already mentioned, the case went from 36mm to 40mm. It is steel with a screw-on case back. The whole case looks like something straight from the 1960’s. Simple straight lines, a nice break on the lugs, thin steel bezel, pump pushers (albeit a bit too high, I feel) and a large crown with the vintage Hamilton logo. Nothing to complain about. At 10 o’clock on the side of the case, you can find the date quick set. The crown ins screw down but it does not have the date changing feature.

The simplicity that we have seen on the case goes for the case back too. The center has a large pattern filled with “H” motifs obviously for Hamilton. Around this motif, you have the water resistance in bars (10) and PSI (145). It stands for pound-force per square inch, a measurement you don’t see often on watches. “Swiss Made” and the reference number of the watch are also on the back.

Calibre H-31

The heart of the Hamilton Intra-Matic is the calibre H-31 movement. We are talking about an automatic movement with date function and 60 hours of power reserve. Clearly, this is no in-house movement, the base is ETA’s calibre 7753. The H-31 movement, however, received many updates by the watchmakers at Hamilton. The most obvious being the power reserve. While a normal ETA 7753 has around 42 hours the calibre H-31 movement can run about 18 hours more with the same fully wound mainspring. This is thanks to an improvement of the mainspring. The barrel and the escapement as well as the escapement regulator also received updates and were refined. The pushers have a nice and strong click. The watch runs quietly, while the case is a bit thick at 14.7mm it sits comfortably on the wrist. The Intra-Matic is a very pleasant watch to wear.

Panda Dial

As I mentioned it at the beginning of the article; the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono has a panda dial, the inverse version of the Intra-Matic 68 from 2017. The dial’s base colour is white, where the chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 are black. Also, the tachymeter ring that is painted on the edge of the dial is in a black ring. At 12 o’clock you can find the vintage Hamilton logo and at 6 the word “Automatic” referring to the movement. under this and just above the minute scale is the date window. Raised, polished metal indexes with lume on their outer sides give the dial a bit of shine. It is worth mentioning that even the numbers (10-20-30 and 20-40-60) and the fonts of the subdials are matching to the vintage version.

The dial is easy to read, even for a chronograph. To make it easy Hamilton took care of the sapphire crystal, which has a double anti-reflecting coating. Straight, nickelled hour and minute hands help the visibility with Super-Luminova coating on both of them. The chronograph hand has black lacquer cover, while the sub counter hands have white lacquer on them.

Leather only

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono comes on a black leather strap. This is the only strap/bracelet option for the timepiece. The lug size, however, is a very convenient 20mm. You can put on whatever you fancy. I tried the Intra-Matic on a NATO and I have to say it looked just awesome. The OEM strap is tapered 20/18mm, it has a nice Hamilton buckle. Rather similar to a German brand’s which I will not name, but I’m sure you know which one I mean. The strap has a bit of padding that (with the tapering) helps to slim the overall look of the watch optically.

Verdict

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a great looking timepiece with awesome wrist presence and just the necessary vintage touch. Its size is contemporary but not too bulky, The movement inside is a true workhorse with some added improvements. The dial is easy to read and that black chronograph hand is splendid. It doesn’t bother me that the pushers are a bit too long either. The retail of the Intra-Matic is €1995 (2150 CHF) a reasonable price for such a watch if you ask me. It is available from the 15th of October (pre-order) 2018. All in all, if you are on the market for an automatic chronograph that blends modern and vintage design, has a fair price and wears great the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a timepiece you should definitely check out. That’s pretty much what everybody, whom I showed the watch to, told me.

If you would like to check out this or any other Hamilton model, please visit their website. Click here.

 

 

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In The Shop – Introducing: The Moulded Oak-Tanned Leather Case Collection

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Carpenter Brooklyn Field | Hands On Watch Review

Carpenter Brooklyn Field

Classic. Traditional. Vintage. These words are what comes to mind when I look at the Carpenter Brooklyn Field. It is a field watch that looks like something maybe my grandfather would have worn. At 40mm, it is probably a little larger than a true vintage piece, but 40mm is the new “it” size these days with a lot of brands. The trend seems to be smaller and more classic styling, and I feel there is nothing wrong with that. The Brooklyn Field was designed by Niel Carpenter, and you guessed it, he lives in Brooklyn, NY. The original watches were launched on Kickstarter about 2 years ago, but this model, the M2S, has a pretty nice upgrade; An ETA 2824 automatic movement. Limited to 50 pieces, it will probably sell out quickly, and while that sounds like marketing, check out their website and you can see, their watches just do not hang around long.

Carpenter Brooklyn Field Specifications:

• 40mm Width
• 48mm Lug to Lug
• 13mm Thick (Including Crystal)
• 20mm Lugs
• Domed Sapphire Crystal
• Screw Down Crown
• Exhibition Case Back
• ETA 2824 Automatic Movement
• Padded Leather Strap

Price $825

https://carpenterwatches.com/collections/carpenter-field/products/m2s-brooklyn-field

Carpenter Watches are popular, no doubt about it, but for me, I wish for a few changes. The biggest one would be the crystal. The Carpenter Brooklyn Field has a sapphire crystal front and back but the domed one on the front is my issue. This watch seems to be lacking a good AR coating, or it is just the dome itself. Now, I know MANY people who loved domed crystals, and on certain watches, I do myself. The problem here is the amount of reflection. You can see it in the photos here in this article and also in the video above.  The domed crystal also inhibits from seeing one of the nicest features of this field watch; The dial. The matte dial has a nice subtle texture to it that I love, but the problem is, you rarely see it. You really have to get the right angle to capture it. On the regular when glancing down to either admire or check the time, you’ll see just a black dial, or your reflection, and the reflection of everything else from your surroundings.

For me, a flat crystal with a good AR coating would have gone a long way for me to love this watch. Instead, it is in the like category. I do not dislike it, but it will never be my favorite. That is a shame, as the Carpenter Brooklyn Field Watch does have a great look and a lot to offer in terms of styling and comfort, but the simple truth is, it’s hard for me to get over the crystal. Many of you may think I am crazy, and you love this watch. For those that do, let’s get into some of the other details.

The size of the Brooklyn Field is going to be versatile on a lot of wrists, especially that 48mm lug to lug. This means that if you have small wrists, this watch should not be hanging off the edges like a larger watch would. If you were hoping for a thin watch though, this may not be it. Technically the case is 11mm thick, but when adding in the crystal, you are looking at 13mm, which makes it a little on the chunky side, at least on paper. On the wrist, it is not as noticeable, unless looking at it from an angle. I still think it should probably fit under a shirt cuff if that is your thing. It is summer here and I have not been wearing any long sleeve cuffed shirts lately. Below is a picture on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Traditionally, wired lugs may have been solid, and in some cases, like with Panerai, you have to remove screws from the case back to access the two-piece lug system, if you wanted to change the strap. With the Carpenter Brooklyn Field, underneath the strap is regular spring bars, so swapping out the strap will be the same as any other watch that uses spring bars. The padded suede strap looks good and is very comfortable and has a nice thin buckle as well.

The big upgrade here is the Swiss ETA 2824 movement. Past models of the Brooklyn Field used Miyota 8200 series movements, which I have stated many times are not my favorite, so for me, this is a welcome upgrade. A lot of watch enthusiasts love to see the movement, so Carpenter chose an exhibition case back to show off the movement and the engraved rotor.

The lume is nothing to write home about (anyone still writing home these days?), but it was better than I expected. The hands and numbers are thin of course, so it does not leave a lot of room for the lume to be applied, but the hands do glow fairly well. The numbers will fade off quickly though.

There is a lot to like with the Carpenter Brooklyn Field. As usual, I do not sugarcoat anything and I would love to see a future version with a flat crystal, or maybe a choice of either flat or domed- give the customer the option. Beyond the crystal, it is a well-finished watch, that arrives in tremendous packaging and with this version having an ETA 2824, a solid movement. I do not know if other dial colors with this movement will be available or not, but with about 2 years under their belt, I am looking forward a new model from Carpenter. I will have to keep my eye on them to see what the future holds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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VERYFiTEK Q9 Blood Pressure Heart Rate Monitor Smart Watch IP67 Waterproof Sport Fitness Trakcer Watch Men Women Smartwatch

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#TBT Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG – A Sterile Watch

Today’s #TBT takes a look at a Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG and it’s a watch, when first examined, that doesn’t really stand out as something special. That trait, as we’ll see, is actually significant. More significant, perhaps, is the fact that the MACV-SOG lore surrounding this Seiko and a couple other variants grew out of a forum posting on the Seiko Citizen Watch Site and has now grown into what I can only describe as an ever-evolving research project. It’s fascinating stuff and reminds that in this day of Insta(gram)nt gratification, the method of posting within a forum still bears some serious merit. Yes, today’s article is about a watch, but it’s also a little about history and the power of collective research.

I own a lot of Seiko’s. In fact, I own more than I care to admit and the genres, age, condition and rationales are highly varied, but I enjoy the bulk of them because they’re well-made watches that make me chuckle because, even in this day of rising prices for vintage watches, Seiko still represents a serious bargain. If you read this site with any regularity, you’d know that I prefer Seiko divers first, perhaps the chronographs second and then a mix of other oddball pieces. Nearly three years ago, we detailed a Seiko 6619-8230 Sportsmatic – a good-looking but somewhat anonymous watch made special because it shares its hand set with the 62MAS “ur-diver”. Since then, though, we’ve stayed on track by providing looks at tool watches from the brand. So, why did I go after another seemingly unremarkable watch in the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG?

I’d guess it was three or four ago when I first stumbled upon the topic of SOG Seiko’s within the aforementioned forum. The topic wasn’t new, but some more concrete evidence about the watches used by the MACV-SOG military unit had been unearthed and shared, so the posting was constantly receiving more information. It was fascinating history about how the Military Assistance Command, Vietnam – Studies and Observations Group (hence, the acronym “MACV-SOG”) was founded in 1964 as a special ops unit that operated behind enemy lines and did everything from capturing enemy prisoners, rescues, and even conducted psychological operations. I won’t even try to do the history justice, but suffice it to say, this was an extremely dangerous role and the casualties, percentage-wise, were high. To bring it back to watches, and the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG in particular, members of this task force were instructed to look “sterile” and to blend in as much as possible while conducting their operations in enemy territory. Therefore, instead of donning normal issue wristwatches such as the Timex often used, members often chose something like the Seiko you see here due to its rugged reliability, non-flashy looks, luminous dial and low cost (something like $8 at a PX in the late 1960’s). In the beginning, a watch like you see here was often chosen by MACV-SOG operatives (there are actual recitations of ex-troops who wore this model), but the military ultimately stepped in and placed orders directly from Seiko for similar, later models.

The Three Seiko MACV-SOG’s – from L to R 6619-8060, 6119-8100, 7005-8030 (Photo courtesy of Dan Clayton)

The consensus opinion is that the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG you see here is actually a “pre-MACV-SOG” because it wasn’t actually ordered and issued by the US military. It’s from 1967 and it seems that the military didn’t begin issuing pieces to the task force until at least 1968. Early on in the forum posting, though, it wasn’t so clear on which watches were actually issued because grainy pictures in black and white of soldiers with watches on made it hard to differentiate between the 6619 and what is considered as the first of the officially issued watches, the 6119-8100/8101.   The watches look very similar due to their case shapes despite employing different movements, slightly differing dials, and case materials (the 6119’s are chrome-plated while the 6619 is stainless). As the forum posting evolved, more evidence arose from recounts of stories about MACV soldiers who purchased or were told to purchase their watches versus those who received them. It seems those who received them got 6119’s and those who bought often chose a 6619 (and, as mentioned, the 6619 was an earlier piece). It’s a subtle distinction, but it’s there.

The Seiko 7005-8030 (photo courtesy of Dan Clayton)

As further information, a more distinctively ovoid-shaped 7005-8030 was issued and overlapped with the 6119’s in terms of time period. Military watch aficionado Dan Clayton (@danc21cy) sent the pictures within this paragraph.   Dan has the rare distinction of owning all three MACV-SOG models including a rare white 7005 with Arabic numerals. If you’re interested in a verbal explanation of these watches, check out the link here to the Two Broke Watch Snobs podcast where Dan was a special guest. Thanks for sending the pics, Dan!

After reading through the postings, I decided that I wanted to add at least one of these historical pieces to my collection, so I wound up heading to eBay. I casually checked for a few months until the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG you see here came up for sale. It was a straight up auction and it was clear that the seller didn’t know what he/she had as there was no mention of Vietnam. The pictures were grainy, the watch looked extremely rough, the crystal was cracked, it was running for about 5-10 minutes at a time and came on a Spiedel expanding bracelet. In other words, it was perfect! In the end, I think it sold for roughly $120 with a high number of bids, so someone else clearly knew that the watch had some significance. I should also mention that the watch came out of an industrial area in the Midwest of the USA (I lived in an area like this for over 10 years and it honestly felt like everyone was a Vietnam veteran or the bulk of their relatives were), so perhaps it even spent time in Vietnam. Yes, I should’ve asked the seller.

When I received the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG, it was definitely in rough shape and needed some work. In addition to the what I mentioned above, it was clear that the hands needed a bit of relume: a decision that I didn’t make lightly. It also contained a little dent in the dial – all part of the charm! With other watches in need of work, though, the 6619 sat in my watch box for over 2 years until I decided to order a NOS crystal and send it into our watchmaker Paul. After Paul finished making a personal man-bag out of discarded watch straps, he enlisted a fellow watchmaker who specializes in Seiko to undertake the restoration. As you can see, the watch was thoughtfully restored and the case shows all its bumps and bruises. Frankly, it seems appropriate for a watch that may have spent time in some pretty tough situations.

When looking at the Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG, the first thing you notice is the use of luminous Arabic numerals on the dial. While that may seem like a relatively normal attribute found on many watches, this wasn’t normal for Seiko. Scrolling through the Seiko catalog, and when looking through any Seiko collection, the brand used applied markers or shapes at the hours and rarely numbers. For sure, one can understand why a soldier would prefer the numerals, but it’s interesting that amongst the simply ridiculous variety of watches produced by the brand each year, you’d be hard-pressed to find a civilian model with actual numbers on the dial.

Yes, dials with numbers have traditionally been reserved for tool watches or military pieces, but it still strikes me as notable. Looking further at the dial, it has a grey/green sunburst finish that is unnoticeable in some lights, but serves as an odd touch of flair for such a stoic, “sterile” watch. The case is also simple with nicely shaped lugs and a simple steel bezel surrounding the sloped, flat acrylic crystal.

At roughly 36mm in diameter, 12mm thick and sporting an 18mm lug width, the stainless steel Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG is in the same realm as a vintage Rolex Explorer size wise. With 50m of water resistance, doing time in a humid climate in a place like Vietnam was also possible. The movement inside is the 6619 caliber. It’s a 21 jewel automatic with a quick-setting date (the day is manual) that’s advanced by pushing the spring-loaded crown into the case. That crown, by the way, is small and not meant to be used frequently – one of Seiko’s ideas that you should “set and forget” its automatic watches. You can see that I put the watch on an olive drab NATO-style strap, although it likely came with a steel bracelet. Soldiers apparently had to switch their watches to a fabric strap when going out to the field, so the look is at least semi consistent with the times. Honestly, I can’t think of something more suitable to such a watch and I love the look. It also helps the watch wear a little larger than its size.

Finding a Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG or any of the variants, for that matter, can be quite a chore. For the global set, it’s best to look in the USA as this is where the bulk of these watches now reside. You can certainly play the condition card like with any watch, but if any of these watches were used for any period of time in the field, don’t expect a prom queen. Again, I see it as part of the charm. For the 6619 itself, hands can be found on other Seiko’s from the period and crystals are no issue. The movement was widely used as well and I believe even the case.

So, for once, we have a vintage watch that’s relatively easy to repair. The same can be said for the 6119 and 7005 variants. I’ve seen people replace the cases on their 6119’s when sweat and time have actually begun to eat away the metal – fact! Price wise, assume $400 and up for a decent 6619. The 6119’s are in a similar realm, while the 7005 version commands the most as it was apparently made for the shortest amount of time. In all three models, we’ve seen values approach or exceed the $1,000 mark for supreme examples. Yes, history counts here.

The Seiko 6619-8060 MACV-SOG is a unique watch within my Seiko collection. Even if it is considered as a “pre” model because it was not issued, it’s amazing to think about the history of many of these watches and their reliable “participation” during such an extraordinary time period. I’d really invite you to read the posting on the SCWF as there are some fantastic stories of bravery and sacrifice aside from the general history alone. Because the post began in 2014, the evolution of information is also intriguing. Lest we forget, though, it doesn’t hurt that the 6619-8060 also happens to be a pretty good-looking watch.

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Review: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s

Staying within the Swatch Group stable of brands, one can look to the Omega Seasmaster Professional Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer. Granted, this watch is no Blancpain, but it is arguably one of the finest mass-produced mechanical dive watches that has ever been made. Its movement is the result of a series of upgrades and updates that include the implementation of a co-axial escapement, high resistance to magnetic fields, and Master Chronometer Certification. You get all of this, in the form of a 300m-water-resistant tool watch, for a starting price of $4,400. To be clear, and to reiterate, the Omega is a mass-produced product and the Blancpain is not, but still, each is a purpose-built tool watch that offers the same water resistance.

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Hands-On Grand Seiko SBGR311 Limited Edition Review + Overview of GS Service Costs

When Grand Seiko was re-introduced in 1988, their first models had quartz movements. Then, in 1998, Grand Seiko introduced the 9S calibre movement. The first two mechanical calibres for Grand Seiko that were introduced in 1998 were their calibre 9S51 and 9S55. The latter might sound familiar to you if you are into Seiko watches, as it was the base calibre for the 8L35(b) movements used in the Marinemaster series for example. These first two Grand Seiko movements were regulated to perform well within chronometer standards and had a power reserve of 50 hours. Since then, the 9S calibre movements have improved by (a.o.) using innovative materials (resulting in an accuracy of -5/+3 seconds a day on average) and offering a power reserve of no less than 72 hours.

Grand Seiko SBGR311 20th Anniversary of 9S Movements

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the 9S movement, Grand Seiko decided to do us a favour and make it even harder to pick a watch from their impressive line-up. We get it already, they mastered the art of putting us watch enthusiasts in hazardous situations when saving up for one of their watches. As I’ve written in one of the last Grand Seiko coverages, it took me a year to decide which model to pick. So, this 20th-anniversary Grand Seiko SBGR311 watch was definitely on my shortlist, as it was shown to us during Baselworld by the fine people of Seiko The Netherlands. And later on again, when we sat down with Joe Kirk of Seiko USA.

Blue and Brown dial Grand Seiko 20th Anniversary watches

SBGH267

At first, I thought this brown dial version is equal to the limited edition blue dial SBGH267, but it isn’t. As the reference code indicates (SBGx, where x stands for the movement type) that we are talking about a high-beat movement here (‘H’) and not an ‘automatic’ movement (‘R’). So, the blue dial limited edition Grand Seiko SBGH267 is the 20th-anniversary model with a hi-beat movement inside. Also, the blue dial version is a tad bit smaller with a diameter of 39.5mm instead of the 42mm case of the brown dial Grand Seiko SBGR311. And on top of it all, the case shape is also different. What is in common for sure, is the gold GS logo and seconds hand. So now that we’ve got this cleared up, let’s have a look at the SBGR311.

Radial Spiral Pattern

Although many (including the manufacturer) talk about the performance of the Grand Seiko watch, the dials also deserve a lot of credit. The most famous Grand Seiko dials are probably the Snowflake and Mt. Iwate, this brown dial is definitely worth your admiration as well. As always, Grand Seiko has come up with some nice wording for describing it. In the case of their Grand Seiko SBGR311, their press release let us know that the brown colour is reminiscent of the local traditional blacksmiths working iron with flames.

In the pattern, you will discover the ‘G’ and ‘S’ that stand for Grand Seiko and then there is this ‘S’-shaped character that indicates the name of the Daini Seikosha manufacture (today known as Seiko Instruments Inc, located in Morioka). As you can see on the image above that Gerard took in the studio, the brown has this golden glow. It looks amazing, especially with the earlier mentioned gold GS logo and seconds hand.

The hour markers and hands are finished with the typical breathtaking eye for detail. Where other (Swiss) brands stop, as they find a certain level of quality good enough for the naked eye, Grand Seiko takes it a few steps further and ensures it also looks good under a microscope or macro lens. A great example was recently given in the Grand Seiko Owners Club Facebook group, where Ákos Balog shows three sets of hands of three different brands, including Grand Seiko (Rolex and Omega). Click on the images below for larger versions.

As you can see, there’s quite a difference in these cropped images (cut out from high-res images). This doesn’t mean the other hands are bad or not good, it just shows how far Grand Seiko is going when it comes to finishing. Perhaps it’s on the level of brands that are positioned higher than Rolex and Omega, in this example. It at least shows where the price of a Grand Seiko watch comes from if you are still wondering why these watches are higher priced than other Seiko watches. It is not only the hands and hour markers where you will find this type of craftsmanship, it applies to the rest of the watch as well. Again, with the naked eye these level of details are hardly visible.

Below, you see the sets of hands from Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Breguet. We received the images from RJ Kama who took these macro shots of these watches and posted them last Monday on his Instagram account. You will find that the Grand Seiko hands are similar or close to those of the Patek Philippe and Breguet.

SBGR311 Case And Bracelet

The stainless steel case of the Grand Seiko SBGR311 measures 42mm, which is together with this heavy hitter in platinum, the largest Grand Seiko I’ve handled. To be honest, it doesn’t feel and appeared much larger than the blue dial 39.5mm version or my own 40mm Grand Seiko, but the specifications tell otherwise. It shows that sometimes you should not be lead by specifications, but by how it actually wears.

I am pretty sure you are over-Zaratsu’d by now, but indeed that’s the type of (blade) polishing that gives this case so much character and quality. The design of the case is the typical Grand Seiko style, with beautiful edges, polished mirror surfaces and smooth curves. The design is not the ’44GS’ style that some Grand Seikos have (and which I admire so much), but it’s definitely very different from the typical round or square shaped watches that you see mostly out there. The GS signed crown is a bit recessed, but very easy to grasp and operate. The Grand Seiko SBGR311 is water resistant to 10bar (or 100 metres), but I am pretty sure not many of them will be used in the pool (or sea/ocean). If you do, make sure to have it checked every year and replace the gaskets when the watchmaker thinks it is necessary.

In the past, I’ve expressed how I feel about the bracelet design of Seiko and Grand Seiko watches. I am very critical when it comes to bracelet designs, which is of course very personal, but the Grand Seiko SBGR311 comes on the bracelet that I actually do like from them. I just wish all of their GS models came on this bracelet design. That said, there’s nothing wrong with the quality of the other bracelets, I just find the design a bit uninspiring (and very similar to the current Omega Speedmaster Professional bracelet). It never held me back from buying those, but it is the first thing I removed from the watch to replace it with a leather strap. Not in this case, I feel the sober design of the SBGR311 bracelet ensures all attention goes to the case and dial of the watch. The GS signed clasp uses two pushers to release it.

9S68 Automatic Movement

The celebration purpose of this Grand Seiko SBGR311 is its 9S movement, in this case, the calibre 9S68 movement. Grand Seiko refers to this as the large-size movement and it is based on the smaller 9S65, both have 72 hours of power reserve so it has nothing to do with room for a large(r) barrel. It has a beautiful finish, like the perlage on the main plate and the stripes on the rotor and bridges. The Grand Seiko initials and logo has been engraved in the rotor and filled with gold. This movement ticks at 28,800vph and has 35 jewels. The accuracy is well within COSC specifications (but not chronometer certified, as Grand Seiko believes in more strict parameters) with a daily average deviation between -5 and +3 seconds. On the official Grand Seiko website, you can find a thorough explanation of the 9S movement and all of its precise specifications.

 

On the back side of the Grand Seiko SBGR311, you will find the sapphire crystal that allows you to take a glance at the 9S68 movement. For the special occasion of 20 years of 9S movements, Grand Seiko decided to put a gold emblem of the GS lion on there, as well as the “Caliber 9S 20th Anniversary Since 1998 Limited Edition” inscribing and the unique number of the watch. Because yes, this is a limited edition of 1300 pieces and every watch has a unique number on there.

What I am not particularly fond of is the little ridge on the case back. First I thought this is for the case opener that a watchmaker uses, but looking at the six notches below the ridges, I don’t think it is. It might just be decoration, but I find it heavily distracting. On the other hand, this part is mainly on the wrist so it isn’t exactly a dealbreaker.

Price And Servicing

The price of the Grand Seiko SBGR311 is relatively friendly (I use the word relatively, as I am well aware of the fact that for most people it is still a huge amount), but also enters the domain of the watch market rulers from Biel and Geneva. Those brands also offer watches with this price tag (or around) with an in-house developed and manufactured movement. I feel that the €4900 is more than justified though, especially when you take the craftsmanship into consideration that results in a superb level of (hand)finish on the case, bracelet, dial and hands for example. Or the partly hand-finished movement.

Now, one of the most common questions we receive about Grand Seiko has to do with servicing. The density of Grand Seiko and Seiko boutiques is not that high yet, so you need to travel a bit when bringing in your GS for service.

If you are located in Europe, the good news is that there are two service centers for Grand Seiko. There’s one in The Netherlands and one in the United Kingdom. If you are not in these countries, you will need to visit a (Grand) Seiko boutique to ask about the details. That said, the shipping to Japan (and back) might take as long as from France to The Netherlands for example. We’ve been told that a service is done within three weeks on Grand Seiko, that might not include shipping, but that’s still faster than most other brands on the market.

We also asked about the service costs, not unimportant of course. There’s a difference between the movement types when it comes to servicing, logically. Grand Seiko also advises having a service done every other 3-4 years.

Service costs are:

• Mechanical calibre 9S Grand Seiko watches – €385
• Spring Drive 9R Grand Seiko watches – €430
• Spring Drive (9R86) Chronograph Grand Seiko watches – €940
• Quartz 9F Grand Seiko watches – €250

 

The main attraction of this limited edition Grand Seiko SBGR311 is mainly in the brown dial with the mosaic radial spiral pattern. If you are not into brown dials, there’s the limited edition blue dial watch but keep in mind that the diameter is smaller (and the watch costlier due to the high-beat movement). But, as you can read on a regular basis here on Fratello, the collection of Grand Seiko is ever-growing and I can’t imagine there isn’t a combination that will excite you.

For more information and availability, contact your nearest Grand Seiko dealer. Or visit the official Grand Seiko website.

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