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DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
First introduced in 1993, the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M has enjoyed a legendary following. Loved for its design and ocean technology, the original timepiece signalled OMEGA’s return to the world of diving watches and also ignited the brand’s long-standing partnership with James Bond. Now, 25 years later, a bold new collection has arrived.
For Baselworld 2018, the OMEGA Seamaster Professional Diver 300M has undergone a complete facelift, with 14 unique models, including 6 in stainless steel and 8 in a blend of stainless steel and gold.
Sized at a larger and contemporary 42 mm diameter, each new Diver 300M has been given a Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, taking the collection into a higher realm of precision, performance and magnetic resistance.
Every detail of the outward design has also been rethought, including the iconic diving bezel, which is now made from ceramic with the diving scale in Ceragold or white enamel (for longer-lasting whiteness and durability).
The dials are also made from polished ceramic and are available in black, blue or PVD chrome colour. Most notably, OMEGA has reintroduced the wavy pattern (now laserengraved) that was a popular feature of the original design.
All indexes have been raised and filled with Super-LumiNova and, to keep track of the days, the date window has been moved to 6 o’clock. Even the skeleton hands (rhodiumplated, 18K gold, or blued) have been subtly reshaped.
One of the Diver 300M’s most important details is its helium escape valve. For the new models, its redesigned conical-shaped valve has been patented by OMEGA with an ingenious technology that allows it to be operated underwater.
Turning the watch over reveals a wave-patterned edge on the caseback, as well as sapphire crystal, through its METAS-approved movement is visible.
Finally, each model is presented on a traditional iconic metal bracelet or an integrated black or blue rubber strap. The metal bracelets feature a new ergonomic design and have been closely integrated to the case. They also include OMEGA’s patented extendable foldover rack-and-pusher with a helpful diver extension.
Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Tantalum Limited Edition
When the Seamaster Diver 300M was released 25 years ago, it was available in a very unique metal known as tantalum.
For Baselworld 2018, OMEGA is paying tribute to that 1993 release by introducing a special model with tantalum, limited to 2,500 pieces. The usage of this metal gives the watch a unique touch and offers a collectable addition to the new Diver 300M selection.
Sized at 42 mm, this Limited Edition model follows the same facelift principles as the new Seamaster Diver 300M collection.
However, in this version, tantalum has been used for the base of the bezel, as well as in the middle links of the bracelet. The metal’s blue-grey tones offer a subtle contrast to the grade 2 titanium used for the brushed case and bracelet.
This Limited Edition model also includes touches of 18K Sedna gold, which can be seen on the crown, bezel ring, helium escape valve, bracelet links and hands.
The post New Release: A refreshing take on the Omega Seamasters for Baselworld 2018 appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.
Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Deployant News Team
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The new Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Small Second is a bridge between two worlds—a modern design with a very traditional layout. A central seconds hand is so common that it is easy to forget that it was once an innovation. Now, it’s the rare watch that counts the seconds on a subsidiary dial. The C1 Grand Malvern Small Second is one of those, but it takes the traditional small second setup in more modern direction.
The most noticeable design novelty is a much larger subsidiary dial than you typically find on a watch of this configuration. It perches on the 5:00 and 7:00 hour markers, engulfs the 6:00 hour marker, and stops just shy of the cannon pinon. This is not a small “small second” dial. Those proportions might throw some people off, but the untraditional scale fits with the stark modernity of the rest of the watch.
A sans serif 12 counterbalances the big sub dial and cements the modern aesthetic. The 12:00 marker, like the rest of the markers, is printed in a dark grey font—ghostly but legible on the bright white dial. Legibility is helped further by the large blued hands, perfectly proportioned to graze the edge of their respective registers (although in the case of the minute hand, we are left to our imaginations since only the hours are marked). A gently domed sapphire crystal mimics the gently domed opalin dial.
The hands ride on a pair of shafts that look oddly mismatched. The main hands sit on a rather large cannon pinion with a dished center. The seconds hand pierces a more traditional steel cap attached to the fourth wheel below. It is hard for me to pick a favorite between the two because they both have a refined look. But I do wish someone had better matched the two together.
The case is the classic Grand Malvern we’ve come to know and love: swooping, slimming, dynamic, and elegant. The case houses a manually wound version of the SH21 chronometer, which saves 1.15mm over the automatic found in the Power Reserve and the Date Grand Malvern models. In practice, the watch doesn’t wear or look noticeably thinner than the other models, probably because the Grand Malvern case hides its height between its brushed lugs and polished undercarriage.
Those lugs carry one of Christopher Ward’s excellent Bader deployant-equipped Cordovan leather straps or a mesh bracelet. I’m a big fan of the Bader. I’ve gushed about this strap every time I’ve seen it on a review model, and I recently picked up a couple to swap into my personal rotation. It ticks all the boxes for me: quick release springbars, deployant clasp with the tail tucked under (so no need for keepers), and a secure clasp that also forms the post for adjusting the size. I want one in every color, for every dress watch in my collection. The only downside is they got the name wrong; it’s “deployant”—an anglicization of “boucle déployante” (folding buckle)—not “deployment.” Maybe it’s a British thing.
I also recently got a chance to try out Christopher Ward’s mesh bracelet on a different CW model and I found it comfortable, though a bit tight—make sure to measure your wrist and order the right length.
Last but not least, let’s have a peak through the big sapphire crystal exhibition case back at the manual SH21 movement. This movement is a wonderful in-house achievement for Christopher Ward and it looks and performs on par with its automatic brother. In manual garb, the SH21 looks remarkably similar to the similarly named MeisterSinger MSH02; I suspect some shared lineage here, despite that both brands claim their version is “in-house.” The bridge is cut away atop both the big barrels that power the watch for 5 days. Having such a generous power reserve is especially convenient in a manually wound watch. When the workweek is done and you have to wind the mainspring, you have a willing partner in the big knurled crown; it is a marked improvement over CW’s older crowns and up to the task of filling this big tank.
This is a fairly priced, well-made watch with an in-house movement and modern good looks. At 40.5 mm x 11.65 mm it’s sized right for a modern dress watch. I’d prefer something at or below 38 mm, but I know I’m an anachronism. Even at 40.5 mm, I found this very wearable on my 7” wrist and an elegant choice for the office and beyond. christopherward.com
Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Small Second
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Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Jim Manley
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After seeing the new Chopard L.U.C Quattro Limited Edition watch for 2018, I’m putting this brand firmly on my radar; featuring both the Geneva Seal and COSC chronometer certification, as well as a 4-barrel (or “Quattro”) power reserve of 9 days, this is a timepiece offering some serious horological clout.
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DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles
With the new Marine collection, it symbolises Breguet’s contemporary generation of time pieces and its ability to reinvent itself.
Breguet Marine 5517
In 2017, Breguet gave a new face to its Marine line through a revamped aesthetic style, combining a sense of modernity and dynamism: an original bracelet lug, reworked fluting, as well as a crown surrounded by a wave decor and adorned with a wider “B.”
Symbolising this new generation, the Marine 5517 displays the date at 3 o’clock, housed in an hours chapter with Roman numerals. The latter are coated with a luminescent material, as are the minutes markings and the Breguet hands. The maritime world is evoked by the seconds hand bearing a “B” in a reinterpreted version of the corresponding maritime signal flag.
The Marine 5517 comes in a choice of 3 materials – white gold, rose gold and titanium. The latter material was chosen for its remarkable properties as well as its resistance to both salty air and corrosion. It is also a light and particularly robust material.
The titanium version features a sunburst slate grey dial. The faces of the white gold and rose gold models both bear an engine-tuned “wave” motif that leaves no doubt as to the collection they are joining. The maritime spirit of this self-winding model continues on the back with a singular oscillating weight featuring a design inspired by a ship’s rudder. The movement visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is engine-turned and reminiscent of boat decks.
For each of these timepieces, Breguet offers various strap options. Depending on the model, a brown or blue leather strap is available, while devotees of a more sporty style can choose a rubber version.
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
Endowed with the graphic codes of the new-generation Marine models presented last year, this 42.3mm timepiece sets the tone.
The measurement of the time occurs through a central chronograph hand, distinguished by a subtle maritime detail and completed by two distinct subdials at 3 o’clock for the minutes and at 6 o’clock for the hours. The small seconds is indicated at 9 o’clock. A date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock sets the final touch to this sporty-looking creation.
The Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 is available in several versions, with a broad palette of possibilities. The first combines a white gold case with a blue dial in gold, on which the wave-motif engine-turned pattern echoes the collection’s origins. A variation in rose gold is also available with a silvered gold dial. Breguet also offers its Marine Chronograph 5527 in titanium, a novelty for the collection. The Manufacture also offers the wearer the choice of opting for a leather or rubber strap.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Breguet enriches its new collection of Marine watches with a creation housing no less than three horological complications. In addition to an alarm, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 displays a second time zone as well as the date.
The alarm is a multi-purpose function suited to a number of daily requirements, including wake-up calls and reminders of appointments or events. […]
The post New Release: Breguet unveils its new Marine collection appeared first on DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles.
Article from: DEPLOYANT – Luxury watch reviews & horological lifestyles, by Deployant News Team
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The William Wood Chivalrous Collection “Peacock Edition” watch is all about heritage. This uncomplicated two-hander is a simple old-world throwback, executed with a quartz movement, steel case, deployment clasp, and heady nod to the brand-runner’s grandfather’s career and memory. The piece comes off as a respectable endeavor, fine piece, and worthy nod to the memory of British Firefighter William Wood.
I had the privilege of wearing the Peacock Edition for a few weeks, and dove deep into the heritage, design quirks, and that nifty coin displayed in an new take on the exhibition caseback.
Find the William Wood Chivalrous Collection “Peacock Edition” direct from William Wood.
The Peacock Edition is delivered in a sparkly green box, and packed inside a nice-ish laquered wooden box. Inside padding is a thin plastic vinyl, with the William Wood logo. I’ve seen this box before – standard square box, with pushbutton latch. It’s OK, but nothing really notable. Kind of cheap construction, functional, but not something that would attract much attention. It’s definitely better than a cardboard box (but actually, I sometimes like the minimal flat pack), but it’s not a piece that you’d expect to show off the watch forever. A delivery mechanism, nothing more.
The watch looks and feels great on first pass. My first impression is that gold coin protected under glass on the caseback is cool! Shiny and interesting looking – it’s certainly a distinctive element, and adds a definite quality, solid character to the piece. My only small gripe is that the coin is covered by a piece of glass. Sure, it will protect the coin, keep it nice and shiny, etc. But I think for a heritage watch, it might be interesting to let that coin age and weather over the years.
Also standout are the green hands – just two of them. They’re an interesting touch in a world of kickstarted watches with thin silver hands. These green hands look interesting again, and actually go well with the white face.
Also of note, while the leather strap feels a bit thing and “mass market”, I do appreciate that it comes with a custom engraved deployment clasp – definitely a good decision, and something I wish came on more watches nowadays.
Fit and finish is just fine on the watch – no obvious flaws or issues. It’s a stainless steel case, with a crystal on the front and back. Construction is sturdy, and has a good weight to it. That said, for a stainless steel case, it’s well made, but not the highest level of polish. Good, but not quite the hand-made feeling of higher end luxury pieces. The face is bright and crisp, with applied silver indexes, and a big bold “LONDON” displayed prominently.
The one big item that could be improved in the fit and finish department is certainly the leather strap – it’s thin and a little too soft, in the wrong way. It bends easily, and feels like it’s going to start breaking down or getting really soft fairly quickly. For a deployment clasp’d strap, this is an area where a thicker, stiffer strap can be use, and pre-curved with that buckle. That said, it’s easy to change it, thanks to quick release springbars.
It feels to me like larger watches have been gaining in popularity over the years, and the William Wood Peacock Edition is no exception – the case is 41mm, which is larger – but not too huge. On my relatively small wrists, it’s still perfectly wearable, and the slim-ish thickness makes for a comfy all dear wear. The weight is substantial, and I can feel it on my wrist when moving around quickly – but it’s not a huge clunker at all.
This is the first time I’ve really thought about this, but given the size and weight of the case, the weight of the deployment clasp, I really think the leather strap should be a bit thicker. Sure, it might take a bit longer to break in, but once molded to the wearer’s wrist, a thicker strap will carry the weight of the piece better.
Readability wise, the face is perfectly readable at a quick glance, owing to its large and contrasting green hands. It’s a simple white face, with minimal markings, and is perfectly functional and classy.
As a daily wearing watch, I did feel like the white face, larger diameter, and green hands stood out, and made a statement about what I was wearing – a good choice for adding a bit of style and class to your wardrobe, but maybe not the best if you’re going for understated and functional.
Certainly the most distinctive feature of the watch is one most people will never see – the encapsulated commemorative coin. I love that little detail, and it turns what would be a fairly standard quartz watch into even more of a conversation piece. Additionally, the green shiny hands are a fun touch.
The one big improvement here would be in sourcing a thicker leather strap. The one that came on the watch is downright puny – thin to the point where the watch weight pulls at the strap unduly. Get that right, and this would be a nice daily wearing watch for the office, with a suit, and at formal gatherings.
If you’re looking for a classic looking watch with Swiss quartz accuracy, a few interesting quirks to show off, and a nice pricepoint, then go for it. For the money, this is actually a pretty nice piece, with a cool bit of heritage. This is not, however, an heirloom luxury watch, nor is it a weekend beater.
If the quality of the strap is improved a bit, I’d say this is a fine formal piece, and a fun way to support a bit of family heritage.
Article from: Wrist Watch Review, by Jeffrey Donenfeld
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